Need Help...

You could try this stuff: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18986 it was shown on Mr. Saltwater. But personally I would try to do this the safe slow way. You started off by trying to rush a fix for the cyano, it cased issues now you’re wanting to rush a fix for the meds you used. In a reef tank nothing good happens fast. I would pull my big ammonia producers i.e. the fish and house them somewhere else for the time being. From here I would go to the local club and talk to some people about some media out of there filters. This media will be coated with the bacteria you need to kick start this cycle. You can also do this with couple handfuls of sand or ruble from a sump. I would do WC daily till my chemistry was normal again. If you’d like you can set up a auto WC by using a hang on overflow (again barrow this from one of your local clubs) run this to a 5 gallon bucket. Add another 5 gallon bucket full of clean new saltwater with an aqua lifter. Run the aqua lifter lines from the bucket to the tank add a timer if you’d like. By the end of every day you’d slowly change out 5 gallons of water every day without disturbing anything in the tank. The only work involved on something like this is to dump the dirty water after a water test and refill the good bucket.

Long story short treat the tank like a brand new set up, that has corals in it.

Next time you’re having cyano issues try phosphate removers 9 times out of 10 I can rid red algae by lowering the phosphates and changing the flow in the tank. Adding chemicals to remove something in a reef is like adding fire to a forest to rid it of mosquitoes. Its far better to remove elements from the water then it is to add elements to eliminate pest.
 
O it just occurred to me. Ask around your local club if anyone will let you borrow a set up hang on back refuge that has been in use for awhile and full of macro. That would help tremendously.
 
Thank you these are all VERY good ideas... Also TRUST ME I learned my lesson!!! That unslightly Cyano was no big deal no that I think about it.. But thats what I get for listening to my local Fish store.. :(
 
the rule of additives should state don't add it unless you can test for it. i.e. cal dkh mag ext ext ext. I think the hang on fuge is your best bet any luck?
 
Hello All, Update I'm still at 1.0 ammonia and doing WC I feel is hurting me in the sense that when cycling a tank you dont do a WC until it is done cycling.. So to me that is what im stuck doing cycling again so changing water everyday Is not working IMO.. Am I wrong? Please explain..
 
I have never used Cyano treatment, but have used Chemipure in the past. I think the two are comparable, so i do not think you used an antibiotic which could possibly kill nutrifying bacteria along with the cyano, however it most likely was a type of oxydixing treatment which in will no way harm your reef enviroment. However, it is normal to have a rise in your trates after killing off cyano which can lead to a rise in amonia. So the water changes are imperative. It is also important to remove as much of the red slime manually prior to treatment to minimize this affect. The biggest problems are normally a change in Ph or low oxygen levels. I suggest doing treatments in the midday that way full affect happens during the nighttime. I run my skimmer without the top to oxygenate the water and remove any filtration except mechanical. After 48 hours i do a 25% change wait another 24 and do another 25% change. Then i run my testing to assure levels are normal and begin my filtration resart. Keep changing water at 25% and you should be OK. Be sure you match temp and Ph for the changes. If you cant then do 10% changes every 8 hours
 
Ok just looked at pics and see it is an established tank. It does not look stressed out from what I can see Just keep up w/ small water changes and bring a sample into LFS for a confirmation on values.
 
Tank is getting better every day.. Today ammonia is at .25 so definitely getting better tomorrow should be zero!! :) Will be doing a WC tomorrow so we will see... Only thing puzzling is my RBTA is small and in the back but he eats fine.. Just not sure if the tomato clown is bugging him???
 

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Got a quick question.. Why wont my ammonia get to zero? It seems it is always at .25? Can someone please explain? All other test come out fine... I tested versus fresh salt water and im definitely at .25.. Please help..
 
Hey did you take that water into a LFS to have it tested? I just don’t see your tank having problems with ammonia. Most leathers will not open is you walk by the tank and say the word ammonia. And I have seen nems dissolve in short exposures to ammonia let alone rocking it in a tank for as long as you’ve been dealing with it. I get that you tried out the test kit on some RO/DI control water batch. But if you have only been testing with this one kit this whole time I think you may be missing the possibility that the test kit is flawed somehow. With Ammonia still showing you’d expect to see some secondary effects (see above) but you should by now be showing signs of elevated nitrite and or nitrate but you’re not, this leads me to have you had someone else run the test on your water?
 
Very good points and I agree 100% cant figure it out.. But here is my thought.. If Im testing the virgin salt water freshly mixed and it is showing zero ammonia and mine is not showing zero so that leads me to believe the test is accurate but I may have to just bite the bullet and have them test it for me...
 
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