Need help

Bulkhead:

Bulkhead%201.jpg


The gasket sits in between the locking nut (hand tight only) and the AFT flange. The gasket sits inside the tank against the glass and the AFT flange. If you look at the exploded view diagram the gasket is the shaded portion, the AFT flange right above it (mating surface), and the locking nut is below.

Filter sock:

bs_amsock.jpg

This will hang onto the sump wall.
 
you can go to autozone or kragen and buy those gasket sheet from different type of sheets (cork, rubber, etc) and cut your own gasket. loosen the the nut and insert your own gasket (inside-use cork and outside the tank). hopefully that would stop the leak

make sure you lower your water level in your tank
 
It seems to me the bulkhead nut just needs to be given a little more torque to tighten....If that doesn't work than the bulkhead could have a hairline fracture that is letting water seep through.

If you can take a snapshot of the actual installation I can go more in-depth on what's going on....
 
The nut should not be glued on the bulkhead.

you may need a large wrench to loosen it.

It could be that the nut was overtightened which will compimise the gasket and seal.

You might not be able to take the bulkhead out easily, if the pipe or elbow is glued into it from the back side. So cross your fingers that you do not need to replace teh bulkhead, cause if you do, you will need to cut the pipe and replace and reglue whatever is necessary back there.

But for now, try to loosen that nut, clean out or wipe down the glass to remove anything that might be there and then tighten it back down. Hand tight, then a little less thena quarter turn witha wrench.

The filter sock is a cloth bag that is suspended around the drain line in the sump to filter out larger detrius and stuff, and will strain out bubbles and noise.

keep us posted.

Bill
 
OK it was just me being weak lol my friend came over a untwisted the bulkhead for me. I think you guys where right when you said it might need to be tightened. so now I am just waiting to see if he can bring his pipe wrench over.

I also had a question reguarding the flow. I have loc line should I use a Y piece or just use two nozzles on per insert ?

as I was testing it with just the locline without the nozzle piece. I placed my hand in there to see how much flow it seems weak IMO . I have 9.5 on it and the tank is 20 gallons.
 
BE REAL CAREFUL on tightening the bulkhead.

Loosen the bulkhead first, and cleanout behind the gasket then tighten it by hand first, then just a (less then) quarter turn with a wrench.

Channel locks will be a better tool to use. BUt if you tighten it too much, it will be a major catastrophe!!! CRACK / SHATTER type of catastrophe

I am not sure what you mean by the wye or two nozzles.

If you do not have pressure with one nozzle, adding a second one with a wye, will not help.

I am not sure of the specs on the 9.5 nor do I know how your tank is plumbed,.

the distance from teh sump to the tank, and the number of fittings, and the sizes of the pipe all play a factor in figuring it out.

Ideally, it would be good to have someone take a look at it, or pictures, etc.

There is a balance that you need to achieve, i.e. too much pressure, and your tank will overflow, not enough pressure and the no flow.

Genrearlly you want a pump that is greater flow then what you need, and that you can adjust, by way of diverting back to the sump or other equipment, but keep in mind the bigger the pump, the louder, the hotter the more money it costs.

Anyways, pictures, drawings, a party at your house..... :)


Bill
 
Okay., pics are worth a thousand words...

Next time you go tot he store, hd or lowes get a hose clamp or you may even look in the elctical section.

You want a plastic clamps eitehr a two hole clamp, or some fangled new one hole clamp. And clamp the return line under the sqwd. When you do this, lift the pluming and sqwd about a half an inch then tighten the clamp in place. this will take the stress off all the joints and clamps at each of the connections to the sqwd and the bulkheads.

And did you re seal the bulkhead yet?

Not sure about teh sump and silicone issues you mentioned, but the sump looks great.

The baffles may be a bit high though. You are not leaving any room for overflow or water that is left in the plumbing lines, when or if power goes out.

but, it is what it is now. As I assume you have re done that part already.

What stage are you at now, any recent pics?

Bill
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9091333#post9091333 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bergovoy
Okay., pics are worth a thousand words...

Next time you go tot he store, hd or lowes get a hose clamp or you may even look in the elctical section.

You want a plastic clamps eitehr a two hole clamp, or some fangled new one hole clamp. And clamp the return line under the sqwd. When you do this, lift the pluming and sqwd about a half an inch then tighten the clamp in place. this will take the stress off all the joints and clamps at each of the connections to the sqwd and the bulkheads.

And did you re seal the bulkhead yet?

Not sure about teh sump and silicone issues you mentioned, but the sump looks great.

The baffles may be a bit high though. You are not leaving any room for overflow or water that is left in the plumbing lines, when or if power goes out.

but, it is what it is now. As I assume you have re done that part already.

What stage are you at now, any recent pics?

Bill



For the plastic clamp you mentioned to take some stress off , I don’t think I could do that the tubing is really stiff I would have to add more tubing down to the pipe. Also I don’t think it is stress it is almost fitted in position.

I didn’t need to seal the bulkhead , like you said I think there was something stuck in between the tank back wall and the gasket. I cleaned it off and retighten it. I ran the tank for a few hours with no leaks so far. I need to go to HD and get those metal clamps to clamp the tubing to the SCWD and elbows. I bought plastic clamps but they don’t work with the thick tubing.

as for the sump I barely left enough room but I also tested a "power outage' test it doesnt overflow I think i will also have more room when I add the nozzles

I will get some pics later tonight
 
FINALLY tem million years later my tank is running !!!!!! I will post pics later. the last thing I did was put new fans in the hood. its finally over lol. I put some LR from existing tank in there to see how things will go .

I had a question about using a heater. should I use one or not ? my tank stays between 77-80 with out a heater due to the pump. I put the heater in there and it made the water way too hot. any suggestions ?
 
you could put a heater in there and set the trem at 75 just to make sure it does not get too cold. just my two cents.

And congrats.

PIC please.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9459251#post9459251 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by My F1sh R D34D!
*crickets singing*



Alright guys! Lets get this thing filled.:D


I am with you lol I just have 8 small frags of mostly zoas one mushroom, and one xenia
I want some SPS , But I have to wait for some test kits and my new skimmer
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9034233#post9034233 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by roxy25
well I dont have a camera at the moment so discriptions are all I have .........

its not the part where the bulkhead screws its the part where its actually sealed to the tank,

its not the noise that bugs me its how much bubble action is created at the sump. its in my first chamber where the drains at. I was just wonder is that normal for all of that action down there.

YES, it is normal. Where my tank drained into my sump was like niagra falls. So my first chamber was very very bubbly. But putting the drain pipe down into the water a few inches helps a little.

Then the water flowed through bubble traps and was bubble free by the time it got to the second area of my sump.

Josh
 
O gosh I need help again I just got my CSS 65 in the mail today and I can't get the 1.5 flexable tubing on the rio pumps check vale ......... It looks like it is not going to fit ?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9469196#post9469196 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by roxy25
O gosh I need help again I just got my CSS 65 in the mail today and I can't get the 1.5 flexable tubing on the rio pumps check vale ......... It looks like it is not going to fit ?

Huh?! I had one, the 1.5'' tube is the out put, your not suppose to connect that to any type of pump. The 1.5'' tube goes into the micro bubble diffuser.

Assemble it like this:

SS65.jpg


Then the air diffuser (thing on floor cylinder type of object) goes on top and out of water in its own little snap on part.

careful when connecting bubble diffuser it may cause skimmer to overflow if you don't allow water to exit tube efficiently.

Do u have sump or are you going to hang it? If its for sump use, alot better because it takes a while to understand these skimmers.
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9469327#post9469327 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by My F1sh R D34D!
Huh?! I had one, the 1.5'' tube is the out put, your not suppose to connect that to any type of pump. The 1.5'' tube goes into the micro bubble diffuser.

Assemble it like this:

SS65.jpg


I am sorry not the flexable tubing the regular tubing to the pump
this "blank" is not fitting
 
Back
Top