Need silicone recommendation

Kengar

Active member
Well, I finally came to the realization that there ain't no way in all get-out that I will be able to buy and move the tank of my dreams down the flight of stairs to the perfect location for it (nine-foot wall, fish-room area at the ready behind/under the stairs, with water supply and drain already there), since what I want is, well, not exacly small. (8.5 or 9 feet by 30" by 30") Sooooo, if you can't go to the mountain, well, then, bring the mountain to you! Hence, perhaps I'm crazy, but I will be building such tank myself! (Kengar's gonna do a build thread! :) )

Question: what silicone caulk would you recommend? Tank will be glass sides. It will have a pvc or other similar plastic slab base, with a channel routered out around the perimeter into which the bottoms of the panes will fit (with silicone in there) to provide bracing and alignment, so silicone needs to adhere to that, too. If you don't have a specific brand/formulation in mind, recommendation for a supplier who might be able to advise appropriately would be helpful, too. Thanks.
 
I might be a little concerned with the differences in expansion properties of two different building materials...why not do glass bottom as well?
 
I don't know your skill level and don't want to sound insulting, but this endeavor is really risky if you have no professional sounding board as a first timer. I'm in construction and would put my lifetime of skills at or around a 9/10 on the 10 scale. I would NEVER attempt to build a glass tank with sheet glass. The pressure of water on a tank that size is unimaginable.

Do you have any way to calculate the load of what you're attempting? The most expensive tank won't equal the price of all the livestock and support systems should it fail. As much as I trust some of the people on this site for reef maintenance and general advice, I would never ask questions regarding the silicone to use and trust that it's anything to bank on.

Honestly, if I were going to try and fit that tank in the basement, I would buy one that size, sister up some joists in the basement, box out a temporary structure with "LOADS" of metal supports and jacks. Then, I would remove the carpet/hardwood from the floor above (choose the most easily ripped/accessible location) and bring it in through the floor above with a lot of friends. I would probably have the stand built and set up right under the opening with 1 ton casters on each of the four sides to move it into place, and then resupport the mess I'd just made.

What I'm trying to say is....research this until you've exhausted all your options. Mixing different materials and trying to find out the qualities of one silicone over another is fine, but the big picture to me isn't worth the risk. I would explore building a plywood/fiberglass tank before I attempted a glass tank of that size for the first time.

I hope
 
I might be a little concerned with the differences in expansion properties of two different building materials...why not do glass bottom as well?

Because you can't router out a channel in glass. AGE does tanks like that, too.
 
I don't know your skill level and don't want to sound insulting, but this endeavor is really risky if you have no professional sounding board as a first timer. I'm in construction and would put my lifetime of skills at or around a 9/10 on the 10 scale. I would NEVER attempt to build a glass tank with sheet glass. The pressure of water on a tank that size is unimaginable.

Do you have any way to calculate the load of what you're attempting? The most expensive tank won't equal the price of all the livestock and support systems should it fail. As much as I trust some of the people on this site for reef maintenance and general advice, I would never ask questions regarding the silicone to use and trust that it's anything to bank on.

Honestly, if I were going to try and fit that tank in the basement, I would buy one that size, sister up some joists in the basement, box out a temporary structure with "LOADS" of metal supports and jacks. Then, I would remove the carpet/hardwood from the floor above (choose the most easily ripped/accessible location) and bring it in through the floor above with a lot of friends. I would probably have the stand built and set up right under the opening with 1 ton casters on each of the four sides to move it into place, and then resupport the mess I'd just made.

What I'm trying to say is....research this until you've exhausted all your options. Mixing different materials and trying to find out the qualities of one silicone over another is fine, but the big picture to me isn't worth the risk. I would explore building a plywood/fiberglass tank before I attempted a glass tank of that size for the first time.

I hope

No insult taken. Removing joists and flooring and lowering it down is more hassle and presents more opportunity for really messing things up big time, if you ask me.

Re the glass panels, height of water column is what generates pressure, and that is uniform throughout at any level, so it is height that is most strongly determinative. Length, though , also obviously is a factor, since the greater the length over which the pressure has to act, the more flex you can get. (I was an engineer by training.) I am researching glass suppliers at the moment (will call PPG; they do starfire low iron content glass) and the anticipated dimensions will be fully explained. Also, to minimize the "free span" lengths of the font and rear panels, tank will be very well braced on top (thick acrylic or pvc, with access holes removed so as to leave cross-braces. I am thinking of doing a channelled plate that fits down over the top edges to secure as fully as possible.

This is just in planning stages, andyour comment re taking advice from the board with grain of salt is duly noted and understood. Every now and then, however, you do get someone posting/replying that has meaningful experience and knows what he/she is talking about, and when that happens, it is usually apparent that they know what they're talking about.
 
If you've got the skills to do it...then have at it. This seems like a big project for the first time. Since you seem like you're doing your research, I would explore the silicone repair that AGE sells in LFS. Maybe even call Marineland and ask what silicone they use. I for one do not think that all silicones are equal by far. Some (even though they're clear) will leach contaminants into the water. With the AGE stuff, there's definitely a more bitter smell to it...almost like lemon.

What's funny is that I actually feel more comfortable tearing the joists apart and bracing for a 10 on the Richter scale earthquake (lol). At one point I contemplated tearing out my floor in the family room to the crawl space and pouring an 8 inch slab so that I could fit a public aquarium fiberglass tank on the slab that was 6 feet wide by six feet deep by six feet tall. I've given the Atlantic City Aquarium a healthy supply of sps frags over the years and they asked if I wanted their 1,650 gallon monster so that they could make room for a larger predator tank. The weight of the tank and rock alone would have been way too much floor stress in such a small footprint....especially with 2x10 joists. This hobby can make you do crazy things. I look at walls in customers' homes and think about how large of an in-wall tank could fit in the space, so I'm not surprised that an engineer with some spare time wants to give it a go.

On the point of glass thickness, I do know that once the tank height exceeds 24 inches, most manufacturers move up to 3/4 inch glass. These are going to be some very heavy and fragile pieces of glass!! If you were a bit closer I'd even offer to help so that I could learn something. I hope you're doing a build thread! I look forward to seeing this progress.
 
Because you can't router out a channel in glass.

Well, you can, but it's not a DIY thing. :)

You're looking for RTV 106 adhesive, though it's not going to "stick" to the PVC base as much as seal a gap. Of course, you missed another alternative -- Disassemble the current tank and reassemble downstairs.

Jeff
 
Well, you can, but it's not a DIY thing. :)

You're looking for RTV 106 adhesive, though it's not going to "stick" to the PVC base as much as seal a gap. Of course, you missed another alternative -- Disassemble the current tank and reassemble downstairs.

Jeff

Id say try the rtv stuff as well. Its an adhesive too, not just a sealant like GE's silicone II. I know age makes the pvc bottom tanks but not sure how they seal it all together, maybe ask them?
 
Maybe router the channel into a wood bottom, then set it all up and put a pvc bottom on the inside over the wood? then just seal the corners good? I dont know its a trickey one
 
Well, you can, but it's not a DIY thing. :)

Of course, you missed another alternative -- Disassemble the current tank and reassemble downstairs.

Jeff

That might be difficult, since I sold it last week. It was a 156.

This project springs forth from that. We moved about three months ago. I brewed up about 100 gallons of new salt water and had it in a new tub I had bought to put on line as sump in the dedicated fish room. It had been mixing/aerating and temp-regulating for about a week. When I brought the livestock over from the old place just a couple miles away, I put it straight into the new saltwater without acclimating. Big, big mistake. Although I can't be sure, I suspect that shocked the corals, they began sloughing mucous, each different species thought it was under attack and began sloughing defensively, and before you know it, you have toxic soup that took out all the corals (including some wonderful colonies that had come in on the live rock and prospered from nothing more than small patches), beautiful clams, beautiful RBTA's that had split three times on their own, and some amazing fish (eye-popping picasso perc's, pair of goldflakes, etc.). In the short time it took to go back to the old place, drain and disassemble the system, bring it to the new place, and move the tank down stairs, everything was dead. Unlike a sump overflow or fish going over the sides, etc., this was one of those event that you just turn off the light, tell your wife what happened (and show her a dead fish so she doesn't think you're pulling her leg like you usually do), and just go to bed since there's nothing you can do but accept it. Amazingly, though, my wife is the one who said don't sell off everything (as I'd done before when thinking I was getting out of the hobby), maybe sell the tank, and take the opportunity to set up the big system I've always fantasized about.

Had I known before moving the tank down stairs when we got to the house that the livestock was dead, it would have stayed up in the garage. Since everything died, however, it sat empty in the basement for three months, till last week. When we moved it back upstairs to sell it, however, I realized just how heavy and difficult it is to move "just" a 156. Sure, coming down the stairs would be significantly easier (even with the 45 degree bend to one side at the mid-flight landing), but still, a tank the size I want to do would be just too heavy to maneuver in the limited space available, even if I did it in acrylic instead of glass (preferred). It was with that realization that if I decided that if I want to have what I want, I am going to have to build it. (Seeing that they make and sell corner clamps at Home Depot is what gave me the courage to pursue this, since that alignment is, for me, crucial.)

This is clearly not going to be a back-and-forth-to-Home-Depot-while-I'm-doing-it type of project. This will be well planned, researched, and executed when thoroughly ready. As noted above, I will do a build thread when I start, but this is just planning phase, and one of the things that needs to be planned/researched is the silicone. Hence this post.
 
Back
Top