Need some help with SPS

spinsonic

New member
Hi all,

i'm looking through pages and pages of beautiful sps pics on RC, and wondering why in the world mine doesnt look the same. What am I doing wrong here? My sps looks brown and lack of color. Tank consist of 10x 80w t5, 2 mp40es. Dosing ESV Ca, Alk, and Mag along with vodka, activated carbon and gfo.


video quality isnt all that. taken from iphone5 camera, so please select watch in hd and tell me if thats normal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6dA90tfxGo&feature=plcp


ph: 8.2
Phosphates: .00 to 04
Ammonia: 0
Nitrates: 0
Nitrites: 0
Calcium: 475
alk: 8.4dkh
Magnesium: 1400
temp: 77-79
salinity: 1.025
 
i think your tank looks good. It could probably use some LED's to supplement your lighting and give it some "pop", but otherwise very beautiful. What is the name of the smaller bluish wrasse type fish that you have 2 of in your tank again?
 
thank you... im thinking to upgrade to LED because of that. lack of coloring using standard t5 bulbs.

the two fish are cleaner wrasse. very fun to look at, when they clean the tangs
 
I can assure you that 10 bulbs of T5 are more than enough .... lighting is not your problem,

look into water parameters and keeping things stable and nutritions low, and give them time :)

lower KH and CA++ as well
KH = 7
CA++ = 420
MG = 1350

keep it at NSW levels

and feed less to lower po4 :) blow the rocks and remove detritus as well.

what is the size of the tank ? sure 2 MP40 is enough ?
 
I can assure you that 10 bulbs of T5 are more than enough .... lighting is not your problem,

look into water parameters and keeping things stable and nutritions low, and give them time :)

lower KH and CA++ as well
KH = 7
CA++ = 420
MG = 1350

keep it at NSW levels

and feed less to lower po4 :) blow the rocks and remove detritus as well.

what is the size of the tank ? sure 2 MP40 is enough ?


yes i agree about the lighting. Maybe a bulb change would color things up nicely. They came with the tank, so its 5x 10k and 5x actinic bulbs. Read a lot of posts about LED and im still on the fence. Really want it for the lower power usage, but hear so many complaints about them.

as for lowering parameters... now im really confuse. some says to keep kh between 8-10, with ca at 450. I understand stability is the key here, so would hate to drop it, then having to raise it again. I'm feeding 2 cubes of frozen and a sheet of seaweed a day. also dosing vodka and running gfo, so p04 is hanging around .00-04, and nitrates at 0.

tank is 150G with 2 mp40's. I do have another 4 pumps that is built into the back, but not in use right now. Seems like its too much flow
 
i have seen this new tank by Red sea on display at two LFS. the light seems bright but the colors look off. It seems most people at RC prefer ATI lamps, especially B+ P+ and coral+ when it comes to t5's..... check out this thread when it's time to replace the bulbs. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1706461&page=468

yes, hated the color the moment i turn on the lights for first time. definitely go with ATI's if I decide not to upgrade to Vega's. I'm due for a bulb change soon, so its decision time. LED or ATI Bulbs :debi:
 
loose the carbon and gfo
your tank is running too low on nutrients
dosing animo acids, feeding more would help

I always thought browning was a symptom of too much nutrients. Paleness was having too little nutrients. Am I wrong?
 
How old are your bulbs? Longer than 6 months, replace them.

I would stick with ATI bulbs only. 50% blue plus and 50% aquablue special is proven to give best coloration.

Also, why do you have GFO if you dose vodka?
 
I always thought browning was a symptom of too much nutrients. Paleness was having too little nutrients. Am I wrong?

Nope, you're right. Brown can also come from an absence of light.

What are you using to check po4?

Vodka dosing won't help. If you truly don't have any nitrate, phosphate won't be reduced by bacteria. for every x amount of nitrate reduced biologically while carbon dosing, 1/x amount of po4 is reduced. If you have no nitrate, you won't have any reduction in phosphate.

Because you have measurable po4 AND you run GFO, I suspect a nutrient imbalance. Test po4 with a quality test kit (salifert or hanna) first. I'd also do several consecutive large water changes. Nothing balances things out better than large volume water changes, provided you match parameters between the tank and the make-up water, and the make-up water is "clean."

Additionally, fire up those other pumps. With 2 mp40's, you're around 42x turnover rate. Many SPS tanks have 75x+ turnover rates. Theoretically, this could cause browning issues as well. If there isn't enough water flow, any waste products produced by a coral will "hover" near it. This can cause localized nutrient issues, even if there isn't a systemic issue.
 
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I would also say to low nutrients.Stop the vodka,feed more,reduce full lighting time.

No. The issue is not low nutrients. I'll say again, low nutrients causes a pale, washed out appearance, aka bleaching. NOT brown. The fact that the OP has measurable phosphate should be an indication that it is NOT due to insufficient nutrients.


Brown = excess zooxanthellae = too many nutrients or too little light.


Excerpt:
"You all know that nearly all the corals we maintain in our aquariums are hermatypic and that their tissues host symbionts, the zooxanthellae. These symbionts are unicellular algae (phototrophic dinoflagellates) and, as such, are able to transform luminous energy into chemical energy in order to manufacture sugars from inorganic CO2. A part of the products synthesized by the zooxanthellae is transferred to coral cells where they are used as fuel and a carbon source for the coral's own needs.

This particularity is advantageous for us as it helps us maintain animals in our aquarium without the need to feed them much. On the other hand, it has the inconvenient of turning our corals into brown animals in certain maintenance conditions. There are multiple species of zooxanthellae - in fact tens of species and sub-species - but they all are golden-brown, a consequence of the privileged absorption of the blue/green wavelengths by the photosynthetic apparatus - brown is in fact a very dark red! The visible color of a coral will be the result of the mix between the colors of its pigments, the dominating brown of the zooxanthellae, and the respective densities of these two components. The whole will depend on the two organisms and the subtle laws governing the coral/zooxanthellae symbiosis. It has been shown recently that a third organism - a cyanobacteria in fact - was a participant of the symbiosis in Monstastrea cavernosa and has an impact on the final color. Today, we do not know whether this type of association is very common.

The coral polyps have two metabolic paths available for their growth:

•They can use the zooxanthellae, therefore, indirectly, light and CO2. Under those conditions the coral nearly turns into a phototrophic organism
•They can use their own cellular machinery, therefore, like any other animal, it is imperative that they find an external energy source and feed on it.
In their natural habitat, these two possibilities are believed to be simultaneously employed in variable proportions based on lighting conditions, amount of organic matter in the water column and genetic particularities of each species. For most of the animals that we host, it is the zooxanthellae path that is mainly fulfilling the function.

Without any drastic change in the natural conditions, a balance is reached between the symbiotic algae and their host; the coral's color is the result of this balance. If corals are not all brown, it means that the natural conditions allow them to maintain sufficiently low amounts of zooxanthellae in order not to mask the color of their pigments. To say the least, for a coral, a move from a reef to an aquarist's aquarium is quite a change. Turning brown would be the result of a newly established balance through the increase of the zooxanthellae's numbers, and therefore by the masking of the coral's pigments."

Original Article:

Feature Article: Colors by the Thousands - Light, Colors and Corals, Part I
 
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thanks all for your responses.

at this point. the only thing that comes to mind are the red sea bulbs that came with the tank. I wanted to replace with ATI, but ended up going with Vega's since electricity cost is making a killing on my pockets. Can't say im running too little light, because its a 5ft long tank, with 10x 80w t5's.

this is a 6 months old tank, and i had nutrients levels from .32 to .00 I honestly dont think its too clean... on average my po4 swings from .02 to .10 with hanna checker. I have to dose vodka along with gfo in order to keep it at this level. without vodka I will need to replace gfo on a weekly basis.

I recently however turned on all 4 pumps on the back, along with 2 mp40s 24/7. This was done last week so havent seen any changes.

I am feeding 2 cubes of frozen food, along with a small sheet of seaweed at the moment. Im assuming that is heavy feeding.

all those brown sps up top used to be purple, pinks and blues. so its a bit frustrating wrapping me arm around this.
 
this is a 6 months old tank, and i had nutrients levels from .32 to .00 I honestly dont think its too clean... on average my po4 swings from .02 to .10 with hanna checker. I have to dose vodka along with gfo in order to keep it at this level. without vodka I will need to replace gfo on a weekly basis.


What kind of rock did you start out with? 6 months is still a relatively new tank, I wouldn't be surprised if your rock was still leaching po4, and 0.1 is fairly high for an SPS tank.

It's not uncommon for GFO to become saturated quickly in a new tank with rock/substrate that's leaching po4.
 
I always thought browning was a symptom of too much nutrients. Paleness was having too little nutrients. Am I wrong?

from my experience and knowledge, they both are symptoms of low nutrients, one is just a more advanced form of another
 
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