need suggestions for re-stock of fish

AIR-FX

New member
i have a 72 gallon bowfront reef tank..........i am looking to add new fishy's! right now i have a smaller yellow tang and 2 small-med perc/clowns. i like colorful and active fish. any suggestions? i have a descent amount of corals,plenty of live rock and flow.

a month ago i had added a blue powder and flame angel. within a weeks time the blue powder had ick,then i hit the flame angel,my cowfish,psuedochromis,and scooter blenny. within the week they all died! i ended up tearing tank down anddrilling my tank for new sump and did like a 70-80% water change. i kept live sand and ditrious,n 20% of old water. the new water was already made saltwater from arc. 2 days later i was up and running again. no sign of ick anymore on tang and clowns i think this friday will be the right time to buy a fish.

i am not familiar with fish like most of you are. so im asking for help on getting some new cool fish.

i really like scopias or salfin tangs,blonde naso tang,flame angels,'starry blennies,yellow watchmen gobbies,firefish.

what should i stay away from ?
 
It might be a good time to do some research on Ich. You still have the parasite in your Display tank, because as long as you have even a single fish in the tank, the Ich will have a host and be able to complete its life cycle over and over. Adding any more fish to your system will just expose them to the parasite. There are many threads about this here on reef central. In a nutshell, you will have to remove all fish from your Display tank for at least six weeks to stop the Ich permanently. Then you should set up a quarantine tank to be sure new fish don't reintroduce Ich to the Display.

Having said that, any of us will be glad to suggest fish, but Sailfin and Naso tangs will not be among them. These fish get much too large for your 72 gallon.
 
Very True. Your totally right EllieSuz on one side of thinking. Leaving the tank fishless is a secure death sentence for the enemy: ick.

Although there are many reefers with huge tanks that ick gets into somehow even from a new rock/coral, water transfer or something. Reefs that are too big to pull apart and take out all corals and all rock to get the fish out.

Many people have outlasted the ick. Including well known reefers and some locals.
With an outbreak, one should not add any new fish at the very least. But many have also combated this with combinations of Vitamin soaked food, spread out more feedings, and sometimes use of herbtania(inhibits further hosting of ick and generally harmless to corals). Plus a more frequent water change schedule during the duration, and keeping all levels right where they need to be. Not taking fish out when you really don't need to yet, greatly helps to keep the stress levels down as well.

Fish with strong immune systems usually beat outbreaks of ick and generally keep it off after. Once a good handle is put on it and notice ick free for 6 to 8 weeks. Most if not all ick dies off because of not being able to host well. A natural coating on the fishes skin actually prevents ick from hosting. If a fishes Immune system is UP, it's hard for them to attach. Sometimes it's not as strong as it could be and you get fish with an outbreak. But this not always a death sentence or a wrecked tank forever- just because you don't treat with narcotic fish meds / copper in a quarantine tank.

A lot of people freak at first and move too quickly to do a tear down. Also, people with longer established fish are best to give it a chance to leave the tank and cure with the natural methods above.

If a fish actually dies and it looks like others are starting to get worse without any improvement, then the immune systems may be too weakened and a tear down may be required. This happens especially with really new tanks that are not as established.

But if your fish have had strong immune systems, are still eating good, following the above methods is better in "some" cases.

It's advice I've taken when I was a beginner and in some cases proves to be true. But can be a judgement call. Just ask Tom at the reef shoppe, he advocates it. As well as those from Caribbean Forest. Maybe not in every case. But for many it is more suitable than stressing an entire tank with a tear down.

Just saying sometimes in cases: a QT is needed. But often for many, it can be avoided.
Advice that some experts will give. Be aware, it's hard to not be too nervous/concerned. But don't rush to a medicinal treatment in every case, sometimes it does more harm to large reefs by pulling them apart, than patience and the ever watchful eye doting with natural methods including, extra feedings and water changes.

If your fish won't eat, then maybe you need a QT.
 
Just some ideas:

Yellow Tangs can be challenging when they already own the tank.
If you want a second tang and your tank size allows for it- with the fishes size, I would go for another "moderate" size Tang that is less aggressive. But a good idea would be if tank allows, a slightly larger one than your current yellow.
A little bigger will help his appearance when invading "yellows" territory.

But don't go for one of the larger growing Tangs, it could turn into a disaster.
Maybe a large Brown? A Sailfin, a Scopos, are suggestions. Maybe a Kole.
Everyone has their own ideas. Just suggestions.

But definitely avoid all the largest growing species.

Check out some of the larger Gobies. Some of them are quite pretty.
Blennys are also nice. Watch your mix though some will fight.

A Dottyback or Assessor would be nice. Or a pair. Possibly a Wrasse or 2. Depending on species. Many really pretty ones. Like the Fairies or McCoskers Wrasses.

Blue/green Chromis & / or some Anthias depending on specific species of them are some of my favorites. To really COLOR up the tank and provide a lot of small school movement. Which is entertaining.
Anthias do often need a little more attention though.
 
I would definitely agree with Gary here though.
It's sound and smart advice.
Wait quite a while longer to add anything.
Another month even would not hurt.
Be very patient.

If your fish are doing ok. That is good. Keep up the water quality and feedings.
Avoid any treatments in a QT unless really needed.

But a new addition could get attacked, even if your present tank mates left seem ok now. Moving from an LFS to your tank can be enough stress to
cause an outbreak in them when exposed to a tank that has been through
an infestation of any level.
 
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