Need to raise PH?

Quartapound

Quartapound

New member
Hey guys,

recently moved my liverock (which had been curing for almost 4 weeks)

into a 35 gallon tank with 15 pounds of new Caribsea Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand.

I had used 5 gallons worth of Red Sea mix and 20 gallons worth of Instant Ocean (it was the end of the red sea bag)

I used RO water.

the tank is only 3/4 full.

I read the bag, and in true Noob style, added the aragonite without rinsing it (aquarium of milk).

after researching it, i decided that I didnt want to deal with that mistake over and over, took the sand out and rinsed it well, put it back in, waited a day... still a bit murky although it cleared right up once I put the liverock in the tank (I have 25lbs of Fiji) and 10 lbs of dryrock.


sooo I brought the water to the LFS yesterday to have them check my parameters... I have been using an API saltwater test kit, a glass hydrometer as well as the plastic swing arm type. (although I got lazy and started only using the swing arm)

the LFS indicated my water as SA 1.028, CA of 500, PH 8.1, Nitrate/Nitrite/Ammonia all good, didnt have ALK test...
He used the same API test kit I have at home... only tool he used that I didnt have was a refractometer (which i'll be getting very soon, in the meantime I know how far out of cal my swingarm is, and my glass hydrometer seems better)

So I've been adding a little RO water at a time since last night, and my salinity is back to where it should be, 1.025... but now my PH is 7.8

How can I safely raise the PH? I've been reading about Two Part, buffer solution... baking soda?

I read too much and now i'm not sure which route I should take!

I will be buying a Calcium test kit and refractometer very soon. What else should I be testing for? alk/mag? I want to be taking care of beginner corals eventually...

I'm adding a 20 gallon sump and reef capable marineland LED to the system soon also


thanks again guys
 
Test alk and make sure that it is at least 8dKH, preferably 9dKH'ish. Adjust slowly upwards if needed. If pH is still low then it is likely due to the same issue as the cloudiness, hopefully temporary, or something else that is introducing excess acids to your tank. Or your probe or testkit could be off. If you had your water tested at a store just remember that pH would have changed during the trip over. I personally think people put too much emphasis on pH values, whereas consistency of other parameters is really more important, like KH/alk.

Do you have much/any livestock in your tank yet? If not, I would give it a few days or a week to adjust before acting on anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Get the test kits you mentioned. I wouldn't worry about the refractometer because SG works in a pretty wide range and requires lots of fresh water or salt to have much affect. Although a lot of people will disagree with me.

You need to test for alk. I would suggest you check for mag. But with basic corals and regular water changes, it shouldn't be an issue... just peace of mind.

The sump will be a good addition. Go as big as you can, but a 20g on a 35g DT should be useful.

I'd reconsider the led fixture. I have a new Marineland led over a shallow frag tank and I'm not impressed at all. Easy corals are doing OK, but in water that is only 3-4" deep. And even at that depth, the sps corals lose their color and quit growing. I'd do t5's or step up and get a better led fixture. Personally I think most low cost led fixtures aren't nearly good enough. Give leds another 3-5 years and there will be good units and reasonable prices. I think what's out there today is either good but over priced, or less expensive but not very good lighting. Just my opinion.
 
Yeah I agree. Focus on getting your Alk to where it should be. Chances are very good that after you do that, your pH will be good. So measure your Alk and Calcium. If just Alk is low, baking soda can be a good choice. If both are low, then pickling-lime/kalk would be my preference. Just make sure to take it easy with dosing, since you're only dealing with 35 gallons.
 
Thanks a lot guys, I will probably go to a different LFS to test water again, and pickup an ALK/ Calcium test... save my money on the MAG test for now.

Ron, thank you very much also! You're saving me a lot of money, which I'd like to try and get the most out of as this hobby is expensive, especially if you make mistakes.
I wanted to stay away from a refractometer if I could (expensive) and I can always get my swing arm and glass hydrometer checked against a refractometer regularly.

I was also disappointed to hear your input on the LED's, although glad I heard it before I bought them! I was looking forward to doing LED (but don't really have the money for a nicer unit)


Current USA 36" 4x39 watt T5 Lighting Fixture
$279.99

Coralife 36 Inch AquaLight T5 HO Fixture (2-39W)

$142.95 CDN

Current USA 48" 2x54watt T5 Lighting Fixture
$149.99

Do you think I could get away with the 48x2? or should I really get 2 or 4 at 36"?

or would you recommend something else?

this is my local LFS prices, although he seems to be reasonably priced on most things (I usually can't find better in Canada when I look)
 
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I view refractometers as a must personally. Swing arms are for the most part unreliable, and you will struggle to keep consistency. You can find them for $60 new or less used on the forum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don't have a ton of money to buy new equipment, and would love to be able to access a resource as valuable as the "for sale" section.....
 
and the for sale section is probably most valuable to people who are buying a lot of equipment (just starting in the hobby)....(ie, not many posts)
 
on a lighter note, I completed my 20 gallon sump last night.
from an old 20 gallon aquarium.
it's the same size, and i've set it up identically to this one from the "understanding sumps" thread.
 
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and also DIY'd an overflow using plans from Melev's Reef, and it turned out GREAT!

found some very cheap acrylite sheets that were almost pre-cut to size at the local surplus store. All the acrylic together (for sump baffles and overflow) came to less than 20 bucks. 1/8th for the overflow and 1/4 for the baffles. , and I have enough material for a second overflow, and possibly a filter sock holder for the sump.
 
I'm also looking at purchasing some powerheads for flow in my main tank (which is actually 33 gallons, after I looked it up)

it's 36x12x18.

I'm considering 2 powerheads, then there will be the return for the sump (probably a mag 5)

If I can swing it, I want to get ONE VORTECH MP10 ES PROPELLER PUMP, and maybe another small powerhead

will this pump be powerful enough to create a decent wave action in my tank? or will it simply circulate the water VERY well/create different patterns
 
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