Need Troubleshooting help!

babogart

New member
Hello All,

I have been reading posts here for quite some time and need some help myself.

I have a 90 Gallon reef that I set up last January. It was pristine until about two months ago. Then a large GHA outbreak. I could not find any issues with water qulaity (no detectable nitrates) and I am only using RO/DI as top off.

Prior to having the problem, I had gotten lazy and started using some boxed "natural seawater" sold at PetCo for H2O changes.

I tired the "lights off for three days" method with some success. I would say about 75% of the algae came off the rocks. I followed with a water change using IO salt and RO/DI. I have cut the lenghth of time that the lights are on during the day down to 4 hours. While I have not seen any negative effects on the corals, I am sure they would grow better with a longer photo period.

I have tried keep some of it at bay by adding a Kole Tang, 2 Urchins and 75 hermits.

Needless to say, I still have an issue.

Here are some of the parameters of my system:
90 Gal Display
Corner Overflow
150+# Fiji Rock
3/4" CaribSea Aragonite
4X 48" URI VHO's w/ IC Ballast (2 White ; 2 Actinic)
3x MaxiJet 1200s with Hydors
2 x Corilla 3's

20 Gal Sump set as a Fuge
"Old School" MTC Skimmer

Aquatics 1/4 HP Chiller Set at 78

1.023 Salinity
Cal. ~450
DKH 7
Ph 8.3
Nitrates ~0

Any suggestions on how to improve? I have a set of two 175W Halides, but I did not want to use them as I only intend to keep LPS and softies.
I have not changed any of the bulbs yet and I am considering going to 3X Actinic and 1 White. I dunno.

I'll try to post pics as soon as I can figure out how to.

Thanks!
 
nitrates may not be the issue, see if you can't get it tested at an LFS for phosphates. they tend to push any algae growth
 
Thanks Tony. I'll try that tomorrow or Sunday.

Assuming that is the problem, is there anything other than water changes to lower it?

100_1910.jpg
[/IMG]

Here is a photo as of yesterday evening.
 
I'd vote for PO4 as well. Additionally, it is possible that the algae are taking up nitrate fast enough to keep readable nitrate at 0ppm. OR, equally as possible, your test kit could be faulty. Water changes are you best bet to reduce nitrate/phosphate quickly, and the most reliable way to keep them down.
 
Thanks guys. I'll look into the reactor. I can't imagine it would harm anything if phosphates were not the issue. I could use something like that for carbon too. It would probably work better than the ChemiPure bag in the sump.

Here are some pics of under the cabinet.

100_1587.jpg


and the Fuge...I have heard the caleurpa I am growing is not the best. If I leave the lights on the Fuge for too long, the macro algae gets covered with GHA with bubbles trapped in it.

100_1586.jpg


Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Do you think it could be the lighting by chance? I have not changed any of the bulbs yet.

-B
 
lighting can "push" algae growth a little because of the color shift that happens when a bulbs older.
 
Jason,

Which media do you use with your reactor. I would assume the Phosban media would suffice..?

Also, can it be plumbed "in-line" with the current return, or does it have to have its own pump?

Thanks much again...

-Brent
 
i use something called phospure. If you ask 100 people on the board you'll get 100 different answers. THe best option in my opinion and most is to use a granular ferric oxide based remover. Phosban should work just fine. If you look around you can find it in bulk if you find you use it more often.

As far as the flow in the reactor, most recommend around 100gph. Personally I'm using a maxijet 400 which is pretty close to that number. Some use several reactors and have a bigger pump, it depends on what YOU want to do (all are perfectly valid options)
 
Back
Top