need your opnions .?

Jetersyanks

New member
my coral beauty has recently started looking sick its eyes look swollen and its not using either of it's fins to swim ..... Also my yellow tang has white patches on it ... I usually use (HERBTANA) for this im using ( ARTEMISS) what's you opinions on these treatments ..??
 
we will need to know more about your whole system.

let's start with ammonia... do you test for it?
what about nitrates?

when was your last water change? do you run a skimmer? what's the water temp? salinity?

FWIW I've never used the treatments you mentioned. Why are you using them? What do YOU suspect the problem is?
 
we will need to know more about your whole system.

let's start with ammonia... do you test for it?
what about nitrates?

when was your last water change? do you run a skimmer? what's the water temp? salinity?

FWIW I've never used the treatments you mentioned. Why are you using them? What do YOU suspect the problem is?

I used them because that's what my lps recommended plus it's all natural so I just assumed it would be better. nitrates were 0 ph was 8.0 ammonia was low temp was at 79-80 and I did a water change last night about 10 gallons (60gallon tank) im not sure about salinity my refractometer hasn't come in yet but 3 days ago its was fine

I suspect some type of infection I added a clown tang about 5 days ago first all my turbo snails died now my 2 tangs and coral beauty look sick

I have 1 sea clone protein skimmer

fluval 305
 
well now....

there's a lot to address here.

I don't know if you're acting advice given to you by your LFS or someone else.
You're going to need to open up to changing a few things.... perhaps a LOT of things. When I was downstate we were getting marines at an Agway (!) so I KNOW that all LFS's aren't created equal!
When I started doing this I knew of nobody else that could help me and I had to rely on books, magazines, personal experience etc.
YOU are in a better position because there's lots of very knowledgable folks RIGHT HERE full of FREE VALUABLE INFORMATION. We may not always agree on things (because there are different means to an ends) but your aquarium is gonna get better... trust me!

For starters... and immediately! ... STOP medicating your aquarium with HERBTANA and/or ARTEMISS. These are not a solution and they might be part of your problems!

Your nitrates, pH and temp is fine but ammonia in a reef aquarium MUST be ZERO. (From the initial description of your problems I suspected ammonia. I might be wrong but the case for ammonia has grown even stronger with your descriptions.)

One small tang in a 60 is pushing it. Two is no good... and it gets worse:
Clown Tangs are sold small and CHEAP for a reason: they often get handled improperly, carry pathogens, swim quite actively and nervously and if actually grown out in an aquarium... rarely if ever the case... (who here has seen THAT?) grow quite large and have the worst disposition of any surgeonfish... meaning they will kill conspecifics.

In short, the Clown Tang was a bad decision. (Don't sweat it... I've made more bad decisions than anybody here.)

There's a nickname for Seaclone skimmers. They call them "Seaclowns". There's a good reason. I would start researching skimmers and you can come to your own decision on that one.

The Fluval? I'm not gonna touch that one right now except to ask WHY are you running it? For chemical filtration... biological filtration... mechanical filtration?

Do you have liverock in this 60 gallon?
Do you plan on keeping corals in there?
Do you use tapwater to make artificial seawater?
What saltmix are you using?


It will be good when your refracto arrives. Make sure it's properly calibrated.

At this point water changes are a good thing. MAKE SURE YOU ARE DOING WATER CHANGES PROPERLY. 10 gallons at a time is good. Make sure you aren't adding the water while it's cold!

yer lucky I'm not a Red Sox fan
 
Those herbal concotions don't help . I wouldn't dose them. Your fish particualry the flame angel might respond to an antibitoic in a treatment tank. Don't knowwhat teh white patches on the tankg are . A picture might help.

I avoid clown tangs, espectally in a small tank.

There a reasonable likelihood ich is in the tank from unquarantined fish .If it were my tank ;' I'd start over; put teh fish in a treatment tank ; dry everything out to sterilize it and qaurantine all new fish before adding them.
 
man... I wanted to soften the blow but Tom is right:

Best to start over.

Once Cryptocaryon is in the aquarium you might never get rid of it until the aquarium goes fallow for a couple of months. Better to make things right now then kill a lot of expensive fishes!
Our suggestions might seem harsh but in the end it might save you many hundreds of dollars.
 
Yeah that sea clown is horrible it puts out a lot of micro bubbles and takes forever to start creating foam ... but the clown tang has died i know the coral beauty is dead but ive moved rocks and looked every where i have no clue where it is ... the yellow tang has got color back but now my perculas eyes look swollen and color looks off ... if it does get any worse ill have to take them out and restart (((( ouch ))) i bought this tank about 4 months ago i had no idea about reef tanks or sumps at that time kicking my self now but i just assumed fluval was a good filter
 
Also i have about 63 pounds of live rock i use nutri sea water and my lps makes there own ( there Ph is a little low so i use ph buffer before adding it to my tank) i usually buy a box (4.4 gallons) of each ... Yes i have to zoas corlas a pink mushroom galxy and star polyp 2 anenomes sea bae and bubble tip .. also all of my turbo snails have died (5) i tested water again today ammonia is at 0 and everything else looks fine
 
If you are starting over, I'd recommend buying an RO/DI system and just making your own salt water. It'll be wayyy cheaper and wayyy more convenient in the end. If I had to go to the LFS and give them money for water to lug home every time I needed to do a water change or to fill of the quarantine system I'd probably just end up shooting myself instead of dealing with the aggravation.

Also, by the Dr. Fosters and Smith price, nutri sea water costs $6.14 a gallon! That is absolutely insane. You can get the value RO/DI system (like from BRS for example) with dual inline TDS meter from BRS for like $150 bucks at group buy price, and then it just costs you filter replacements every year or so (like $2 for the sediment filter, $10 bucks for the carbon block, and then you can replace your DI resin as needed for like $10 bucks or just regenerate it for nearly free. Your RO membrane will probably need replacing at the 3-5ish year mark, but it's tough to say). It's 40-50 dollars for a bucket of salt to make 160 gallons, so giving it the benefit of the doubt, by my calculations you break even by about 50 gallons of water -- less than 1/3 of the way through your first bucket of salt and includes the cost of buying the RO/DI system.

Lets say you use just fill up your tank once and change out 5 gallons per week for a year (not including quarantine, emergency water changes, all the water needed for curing/cycling and everything else that might come up). In your first year, you will have used very conservatively 320 gallons. Including the cost of replacing the filters at the 6-12 month mark and buying the system and the buckets of salt, it will cost you about $275 to make the water. The same volume in Nutri sea water will cost you almost $2000.
 
update on my tank i lost my clowns and coral beauty and my green clown gobies that being said my yellow tang looks a lot bettter and my wrasse i put prazipro and it seems to be working also i have done 2 water changes of 8 gallonbs each time before i treated so far so good
 
update on my tank i lost my clowns and coral beauty and my green clown gobies that being said my yellow tang looks a lot bettter and my wrasse i put prazipro and it seems to be working also i have done 2 water changes of 8 gallonbs each time before i treated so far so good

Been there and done that.. I highly recommend you take tmz's advice. I went through a fair amount of livestock until I learned what needs to be done to keep a healthy tank.

There a reasonable likelihood ich is in the tank from unquarantined fish .If it were my tank ;' I'd start over; put teh fish in a treatment tank ; dry everything out to sterilize it and qaurantine all new fish before adding them.
 
well everything has died like ya said but I wouldn't be able to dry my tank out I have a lot of coral .. any other options ..??
 
Let the tank sit without fish for two months and all the ich will die off. After that, make sure you quarantine any new fish before they go in.
 
72 days without fish will give adeqaute time for any cysts to die off. You can use the time to establish a cycled quarantine tank for the future. Then when you get new fish, tank transfer treatment followed by 2 to 4 weeks of observation in the cycled qt tank
can be accomplished while your display is fishless.
 
72 days without fish will give adeqaute time for any cysts to die off. You can use the time to establish a cycled quarantine tank for the future. Then when you get new fish, tank transfer treatment followed by 2 to 4 weeks of observation in the cycled qt tank
can be accomplished while your display is fishless.

I have a qt tank (10 gal) I just have about 8 pounds of live rock and I fill it with water so I should keep it running at all times ..??
 
I'd move teh chrois out to another tank and keep them ther for the duration.Tret them if any symptoms of illness appear.

I keep a 29 gallon running with just a small hob filter. No rock or sand but extra sponge material for bacteial growth. A few bioballs or any media that porvides surface rea withou asorbing meds will do. If I needed to treat something in there the rock and substrate would absorb meds and thrugh of the dose. I don't bother to heat it until just before I'm goingto use it for fish. I'll addssome pvc pipe for rsting palces and some structure for the fish to poke aruond in. Isue this tank for observation aftr I treat all ne fish via tankdtransfer for crytocaryon irritans.
 
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