Neon Red Haddoni today on DD!

[clorox]

I sure wish we could get a good breeder Gig that was green!


When I frag one, you guys know I'll document it. If it dies, I'm not going to run away, but only tell how it happened. However, you will know because you will be along for the ride weekly if you stay tuned in.

Aside from my previous sarcastic encouragement post, I wish you would reconsider this endeavor/experiment. Not because biologically S.Gigantea (like S.Haddoni) do not reproduce asexually, but mainly because the question is not whether it will survive the procedure, but how long will it take before it dies.

I am sure you already know this well

 

[Reefahholic]

I respect your decision and you know I'm in. I definitely appreciate you taking the time to document it. At least we'll all see the process as it happens. It'll be a learning experience for all.

Well I appreciate the support. I just ordered 2 gallons of MarinePure High Performance BioFilter Spheres. My plan is to add better filtration to my DT & also a QT.

I've had a plan bouncing in my head for quite a while. I've been thinking about setting up a seperate reef using some of my existing LR, Sand, Water, Etc. I'll probably do something small like a 20/L. This will be specifically for propagation purposes. Just one Gig or Mag at a time.

Either going to drill and hard plumb, or run about 4-5 Aquaclears around the whole tank. I also ordered 3 more HK Nano PH's (425's). Either way, the goal is to have extremely fresh water with execellent aeration. I want to avoid Alleopathy if at all possible with this, so having another established aquarium is mandatory IMO. I just hope my 20/L is not tempered on back panel. I'm thinking it is. Petco got rid of aquaeon for Tetra. I think all the glass is tempered. Maybe I'll just pick up a 40/B. I do have a 29/G that isn't tempered though. Just want a low tank for easy mainteance and baby sitting. Also ordering a cobalt "Neo-Therm" heater for precise temp with minimal fluctuations.

I also already picked up some algae (like Taylor and Pete have), because I feel it helps stablize the Gigs.

If anybody has any other ideas or suggestions I'm all ears.

I'm thinkin' like a mag 9 on the 20/L. I want the flow to be very strong.

 

[Reefahholic]

Aside from my previous sarcastic encouragement post, I wish you would reconsider this endeavor/experiment. Not because biologically S.Gigantea (like S.Haddoni) do not reproduce asexually, but mainly because the question is not whether it will survive the procedure, but how long will it take before it dies.

I am sure you already know this well

We'll I know that many people think it's impossible, but I think otherwise. I want to try a couple times and see if the mouth will migrate to the center and if I can get them to eat. I have one of the best oxygen diffusers on the market and a flowmeter that runs off flows way less than even 1/LPM of oxygen. I believe that a lot of Oxygen, Flow, and the proper filtration and Mainteance could pull them through. Not to mention the antibiotic therapy when needed.

 

[clorox]

Well I appreciate the support. I just ordered 2 gallons of MarinePure High Performance BioFilter Spheres. My plan is to add better filtration to my DT & also a QT.

I've had a plan bouncing in my head for quite a while. I've been thinking about setting up a seperate reef using some of my existing LR, Sand, Water, Etc. I'll probably do something small like a 20/L. This will be specifically for propagation purposes. Just one Gig or Mag at a time.

Either going to drill and hard plumb, or run about 4-5 Aquaclears around the whole tank. I also ordered 3 more HK Nano PH's (425's). Either way, the goal is to have extremely fresh water with execellent aeration. I want to avoid Alleopathy if at all possible with this, so having another established aquarium is mandatory IMO. I just hope my 20/L is not tempered on back panel. I'm thinking it is. Petco got rid of aquaeon for Tetra. I think all the glass is tempered. Maybe I'll just pick up a 40/B. I do have a 29/G that isn't tempered though. Just want a low tank for easy mainteance and baby sitting. Also ordering a cobalt "Neo-Therm" heater for precise temp with minimal fluctuations.

I also already picked up some algae (like Taylor and Pete have), because I feel it helps stablize the Gigs.

If anybody has any other ideas or suggestions I'm all ears.

I'm thinkin' like a mag 9 on the 20/L. I want the flow to be very strong.

Wouldn't a shallow frag tank (say around 12" high) allow you better access, better monitoring, more consistent flow and taking photos from above etc. than a regular shaped tank?

Those are fairly cheap if you get one used and are easy to plump unless it is already.

If I had space, I would definitely consider a 3~4 foot square shallow reef dedicated to gigs.

We'll I know that many people think it's impossible, but I think otherwise. I want to try a couple times and see if the mouth will migrate to the center and if I can get them to eat. I have one of the best oxygen diffusers on the market and a flowmeter that runs off flows way less than even 1/LPM of oxygen. I believe that a lot of Oxygen, Flow, and the proper filtration and Mainteance could pull them through. Not to mention the antibiotic therapy when needed.

If there is anyone that will dedicate full energy and time, ideas and resources on this project it is you. I will be amongst the ones watching carefully

 

[D-Nak]

Just to level set, I think -- as you probably do too -- that your first go will be a failure ending in the death of the gig(s). However, it needs to be documented so others don't try it. I think you're the best candidate to document it. Granted, many people in this hobby think they have magical superpowers where they can do the impossible, but in this case, at least there will be photos to document it.

That said, I think we should work together to provide the best case for the experiment so that hopefully no one else tries to replicate it.

I would opt for the 40 breeder, even bigger if you have the space. As I mentioned previously, those that attempted it at the exporter used long raceways with a continuous flow of sea water. Obviously this would be impossible to do in a home environment, but the idea is to not only have fresh, oxygenated water, but clean water. I would definitely invest in a high power UV -- one concern with sea water was the introduction of pathogens -- and the UV would take this out of the equation.

Keep in mind that many nems -- a few noted gigs -- have been injured (usually by powerheads) and have healed and survived without the use of antibiotics. I think the acclimation issues we deal with have a direct correlation with dying or dead zoox, and because this doesn't happen with injured gigs, there really isn't a need for antibiotics.

The key to maintaining water parameters would be to remove all sloughing tissue as I suspect there will be a lot from a freshly cut gig. Frequent water changes for a few days after cutting would be essential as the biological filter wouldn't be able to break down all of the contaminants (I suspect there will be a lot).

That's all I can think of for now.

 

[clorox]

Just to level set, I think -- as you probably do too -- that your first go will be a failure ending in the death of the gig(s). However, it needs to be documented so others don't try it. I think you're the best candidate to document it. Granted, many people in this hobby think they have magical superpowers where they can do the impossible, but in this case, at least there will be photos to document it.

That said, I think we should work together to provide the best case for the experiment so that hopefully no one else tries to replicate it.

I would opt for the 40 breeder, even bigger if you have the space. As I mentioned previously, those that attempted it at the exporter used long raceways with a continuous flow of sea water. Obviously this would be impossible to do in a home environment, but the idea is to not only have fresh, oxygenated water, but clean water. I would definitely invest in a high power UV -- one concern with sea water was the introduction of pathogens -- and the UV would take this out of the equation.

Keep in mind that many nems -- a few noted gigs -- have been injured (usually by powerheads) and have healed and survived without the use of antibiotics. I think the acclimation issues we deal with have a direct correlation with dying or dead zoox, and because this doesn't happen with injured gigs, there really isn't a need for antibiotics.

The key to maintaining water parameters would be to remove all sloughing tissue as I suspect there will be a lot from a freshly cut gig. Frequent water changes for a few days after cutting would be essential as the biological filter wouldn't be able to break down all of the contaminants (I suspect there will be a lot).

That's all I can think of for now.

Since stability is key, expense aside, wouldn't a continuous water change system be beneficial in this particular case?

 

[Reefahholic]

Wouldn't a shallow frag tank (say around 12" high) allow you better access, better monitoring, more consistent flow and taking photos from above etc. than a regular shaped tank?

Those are fairly cheap if you get one used and are easy to plump unless it is already.

If I had space, I would definitely consider a 3~4 foot square shallow reef dedicated to gigs.




If there is anyone that will dedicate full energy and time, ideas and resources on this project it is you. I will be amongst the ones watching carefully

I think a shallow frag style tank would be very cool! Easy access!

 

[GT350pwns]

Saw this on DD the other night. BEAUTIFUL!

 

[Reefahholic]

I think your exactly right. The first will be a learning experience and probably end up dying. With documented photos and everybody's input, maybe we can get further than we expect. I agree, it's going to be very difficult, time consuming, and just a lot of work. I think the main key for survival will be water quality, and a good stable Gigantea to start with.

I got 3 people trying to come get 2 of my gigs. This will leave me with Minh's Gig, which will probably be the best candidate if Minh won't be upset with me. I could use another, but feel his is the most stable. All of my gigs have seen a lot of antibiotics, so it could end very quick.

40 breeder sounds real nice. I want extreme flow, oxygenation, probably need to skim and run carbon via reactor. Wanna keep the top open and hang the lighting high. Really want to sump this thing and add the MarinePure bio spheres and some cheato/ culpra algae to the sump. Gonna keep the DT bare bottom. Would love to run a big nice UV. Anybody know who makes a good one and what size would be overkill for a 40/B? ;-)

Just to level set, I think -- as you probably do too -- that your first go will be a failure ending in the death of the gig(s). However, it needs to be documented so others don't try it. I think you're the best candidate to document it. Granted, many people in this hobby think they have magical superpowers where they can do the impossible, but in this case, at least there will be photos to document it.

That said, I think we should work together to provide the best case for the experiment so that hopefully no one else tries to replicate it.

I would opt for the 40 breeder, even bigger if you have the space. As I mentioned previously, those that attempted it at the exporter used long raceways with a continuous flow of sea water. Obviously this would be impossible to do in a home environment, but the idea is to not only have fresh, oxygenated water, but clean water. I would definitely invest in a high power UV -- one concern with sea water was the introduction of pathogens -- and the UV would take this out of the equation.

Keep in mind that many nems -- a few noted gigs -- have been injured (usually by powerheads) and have healed and survived without the use of antibiotics. I think the acclimation issues we deal with have a direct correlation with dying or dead zoox, and because this doesn't happen with injured gigs, there really isn't a need for antibiotics.

The key to maintaining water parameters would be to remove all sloughing tissue as I suspect there will be a lot from a freshly cut gig. Frequent water changes for a few days after cutting would be essential as the biological filter wouldn't be able to break down all of the contaminants (I suspect there will be a lot).

That's all I can think of for now.

 

[Reefahholic]

Since stability is key, expense aside, wouldn't a continuous water change system be beneficial in this particular case?

Yeah, but I'm a continous water changer myself.

I could set it up in the Apex. Not sure how to do it.

Who has experience with one??

 

[clorox]

I think your exactly right. The first will be a learning experience and probably end up dying. With documented photos and everybody's input, maybe we can get further than we expect. I agree, it's going to be very difficult, time consuming, and just a lot of work. I think the main key for survival will be water quality, and a good stable Gigantea to start with.

I got 3 people trying to come get 2 of my gigs. This will leave me with Minh's Gig, which will probably be the best candidate if Minh won't be upset with me. I could use another, but feel his is the most stable. All of my gigs have seen a lot of antibiotics, so it could end very quick.

40 breeder sounds real nice. I want extreme flow, oxygenation, probably need to skim and run carbon via reactor. Wanna keep the top open and hang the lighting high. Really want to sump this thing and add the MarinePure bio spheres and some cheato/ culpra algae to the sump. Gonna keep the DT bare bottom. Would love to run a big nice UV. Anybody know who makes a good one and what size would be overkill for a 40/B? ;-)

Are you sure you want extreme flow? I do understand your concerns for allelopathy, however, all the gigs I saw in the wild were in lagoonal areas with moderate flow provided by incoming/outgoing tides.

 

[clorox]

Yeah, but I'm a continous water changer myself.

I could set it up in the Apex. Not sure how to do it.

Who has experience with one??

You will need a couple of peristaltic pumps of some sort.
One pump essentially pulls out water from your sump and the other puts fresh saltwater in exact same amounts. Through the Apex you can then control how much water exchange you want per day/week to your desired week percentage. Once you don't have to deal with buckets and spills there is no going back.

Personally, I have and use a Litermeter for a fully automated WC controlled by apex. Recently I also added an extra peristaltic pump to siphon the skimmer collection cup so I can run it more aggressively.

 

[Reefahholic]

You will need a couple of peristaltic pumps of some sort.
One pump essentially pulls out water from your sump and the other puts fresh saltwater in exact same amounts. Through the Apex you can then control how much water exchange you want per day/week to your desired week percentage. Once you don't have to deal with buckets and spills there is no going back.

Personally, I have and use a Litermeter for a fully automated WC controlled by apex. Recently I also added an extra peristaltic pump to siphon the skimmer collection cup so I can run it more aggressively.

Sounds good!

Check out Avast Marine Skimmer Accessories

Look at their skim waste reseviors.

Mine is apex compatable, but I returned it and just plug into an outlet. It has a pressure switch so when the resevior is full, it shuts down ur skimmer.

If you get one, get the biggest acrylic one. You'll love it.

 

[Reefahholic]

Are you sure you want extreme flow? I do understand your concerns for allelopathy, however, all the gigs I saw in the wild were in lagoonal areas with moderate flow provided by incoming/outgoing tides.

Yeah, I know where they are mostly found, but when I say extreme flow, I'm referring to the turn over from sump to display (GPH). I should have been more specific. I do believe they like strong direct flow as well though. Mine seem to do better in stronger flow from a wave maker (Jebao).

 

[Reefahholic]

You will need a couple of peristaltic pumps of some sort.
One pump essentially pulls out water from your sump and the other puts fresh saltwater in exact same amounts. Through the Apex you can then control how much water exchange you want per day/week to your desired week percentage. Once you don't have to deal with buckets and spills there is no going back.

Personally, I have and use a Litermeter for a fully automated WC controlled by apex. Recently I also added an extra peristaltic pump to siphon the skimmer collection cup so I can run it more aggressively.

Water quality is good, I just need to automate it.