New 220 gallon build

Lookin good Kurt. Get those lights suspended with chains and some type of removable bracket. Also, get some quick disconnect plug installed on the wires for your lights. Doing so will allow you to completely remove your lighting for easier access in that huge tank.
 
Chris, I know what you mean. Without a canopy its easy to get in, but I am guessing when the guy finishing the stand gets around too it getting inside will be much tougher.

Need to do some chains giving some movement too the lights... Also need to have an electrician install some dedicated lines for the tank instead of using the old outlets as I am currently doing.

I picked up a sailfert mag test today, so an additional check was made and came in at 1050ppm which is within range. My 'guess I will add some' attitude must have been working alright.

The UV unit is simply a godsend. I was cleaning the glass two or three times a day for algae before installing the unit, have cleaned the glass once in three days since installing it. My wife commented today 'how clear' the water looked.

Wish I would have picked up a UV unit years ago.
 
Hey Kurt,
Looks good.

You might want to check your range again for Magnesium again. Natural seawater is around 1350ppm. 1050ppm would be a little low, IMO. I try to keep my levels close to natural seawater.

I am also a big fan of UV units on reef tanks.
 
Thanks Randy, I may have mis-read the Mg normal parameters then...will bring it up. Plan on running all the tests tonight too check on things.

I wish there was a reasonably priced gadget that continually tested all the water parameters...

That huge green open brain I picked up yesterday looks great under the 12k lights BTW, florecent and bright. Now if the dragon goby will stop dropping sand in the middle of it...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10641149#post10641149 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by KurtsReef
I picked up a sailfert mag test today, so an additional check was made and came in at 1050ppm which is within range.
Click to expand...

A good rule of thumb for measuring your Magnesium is for it's value to be 3 times that of your calcium. IMO, your mg and ca are in check however, you need to bring your ca up to 450 to get your mg into NS range.

Your tank is coming along beautifully!!! Great thread.

Mike
 
Here is a shot of that open brain I picked up. I think they add too the sand bed ;)

_D208207.jpg
 
Oh, the Mg tested at 1200 today and I added some more. Did not test everything, son had hockey camp and then practice with the team so no time to do them.
 
Well, I am blaming the powder blue tang...but I have ICH in my tank.

Took me 4.5 hours to totally dismantle the rockwork and get all the fish out. After everything was done, one MIA fish (green/blue chromis) is still in the display.

Will be trying to get it out tomorrow at feeding time.

Anyone have an empty tank they are not using for about 5 weeks? My 20g QT tank is not large enough for everyone.
 
Petco is having their $1 per gallon for 20 to 55 gallon tanks. I am considering getting a bigger tank to use for QT.
 
Just an FYI, before work today I stopped at Petco on Niagara Falls Blvd in Amherst. They had about 6 tanks left. I got the last 40 breeder. I believe that within the remaining tanks were 20L, 20H and 29. I talked to the manager for a moment and she said they sold over 6 pallets of tanks since the sale started. She stated that many people were buying multiple tanks from 40 up.

You may want to check the Clarence or West Seneca stores if you are looking for larger tanks.

HTH
 
Kurt - If your SOL finding a bigger tank, let me know. We can work something out as I don't need the tank at the moment.
 
Thanks Chris,
Got a 45t and cheap stand for under $100.

That is the exact tank with a less attractive stand I just gave away :p

All the fish except the Mandrins are now in the 45t along with some copper medicine.

Mandrins are still in the 20
 
Careful with the copper. Too much can kill the fish. Some fish are sensitive to it, like wrasses.

When treating with copper, the addition of Fomalin and Malachite Green to the copper treatment has been known to help. The two chemicals are sold together in a treatment called "Quick Cure"
 
I think I am going too stop with the copper. Has anyone ever used the products from http://www.nosickfish.com before?

Here are some shots I took this morning
_D208233.jpg


_D208234.jpg


I am really not sure which fish the disease came in on, but this one is looking very good now.

_D208230.jpg


Extreme crop fo the mystery wrasse

_D208224.jpg


This is the best shot I have showing the 'blotchyness'

_D208212.jpg
 
I've seen that blotchyness before in my own wrasses. It seems to be a stress response. When the fish becomes calm the spots will dissappear in seconds. Not sure what exactly the spots mean, but both my Labouti wrasse (while healthy) and Punctatus (a week before getting sick) showed this color pattern. The Labouti was fine, the Punctatus caught ich 1-2 weeks later and died...
 
:mad:
Well, the wrasses went from looking good several hours ago too losing three with three more looking poorly tonight.

It makes no sense too me, if it was the copper... I treated low and then quit putting it in...so the amount of copper in the QT was minimal by today. Went ahead and changed another 25 gallons after removing the dead female scotts, exquisite, and mystery wrasse.

The other female and male scotts are not looking good, the radiant is not looking as bad but a bit lathargic.

The three dead fish were burned in the remains of tonights bon fire.

What is that, 175...75...and 60 fish? Think I will try that "No sick fish" medicine.

What a bad day. :mad: :(
 
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