New 240 Build.. any and all help is appreciated!

Dprill,

I'd agree that I'd probably go with two pumps. I'm still in the midst of research on mine and think that I'll have three pumps in the end; 1) Blueline 100 HD feeding fuge, frag tank, and manifold 2) Reeflo ? to DT, 3) Reeflo ? feeding closed loop system using oceans motions 8 way.

Suggestion # 2: Save money on an additional pump and put the RO/DI over the top of the NSW mixer. Gravity fed with two valves...One for RO/DI feed for buckets/etc and a second that goes directly to the SW mixer for mixing:)

As far as the flex PVC, the longer you go the more the chance you could have a kink. In my mind kinks mean possible disaster in the DT overflowing so I'd minimize the use of the flexible PVC as much as possible. Good luck and Keep Reefin'!
 
Dprill,

I'd agree that I'd probably go with two pumps. I'm still in the midst of research on mine and think that I'll have three pumps in the end; 1) Blueline 100 HD feeding fuge, frag tank, and manifold 2) Reeflo ? to DT, 3) Reeflo ? feeding closed loop system using oceans motions 8 way.

Suggestion # 2: Save money on an additional pump and put the RO/DI over the top of the NSW mixer. Gravity fed with two valves...One for RO/DI feed for buckets/etc and a second that goes directly to the SW mixer for mixing:)

As far as the flex PVC, the longer you go the more the chance you could have a kink. In my mind kinks mean possible disaster in the DT overflowing so I'd minimize the use of the flexible PVC as much as possible. Good luck and Keep Reefin'!

Thanks Dustin, I agree with the 2 pumps, changing the diagram as we speak..

As for #2, that's what I was originally going to do, but I have a low ceiling in the basement, and can't stack them.. and those pumps are minor in the grand scheme of things anyway :-)

What you said on the flex pvc makes sense, although this stuff doesn't seem to kink very easy.. But I will use it from the tank and through the floor, and then use rigid PVC for the rest of the way.

Thanks!

Darin
 
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Understood on #2. Honestly it will end up probably costing me more to build a stand to set it on rather than a pump:)

I'm not a plumbing expert but I'm trying to stay away from flex pvc as much as possible as I think PVC is much cleaner to work with too. It may be rigid enough that you don't need to worry about it but that's something I think about. I'd try to stick with it on short runs.

Curious on how you plan on plumbing the drains? I've got a 90 gallon acryllic tank that I think I'm going to designate to be my waste water container. I'll then have two float switches in it which will tell the mag pump when to turn on/off. I just don't have any other easy access to drainage on that side of the basement...

Below is my waste water line I'll prolly tap into...

photobucket-4850-1317945690634.jpg
 
Curious on how you plan on plumbing the drains? I've got a 90 gallon acryllic tank that I think I'm going to designate to be my waste water container. I'll then have two float switches in it which will tell the mag pump when to turn on/off. I just don't have any other easy access to drainage on that side of the basement...

Below is my waste water line I'll prolly tap into...

For the RO/DI, I also have a drain right above where I am setting this all up, so I am going to plumb the RO/DI drain line straight into the waste line. As for water changes, still figuring that out, but may plumb directly into the drain also.. still thinking that one through..

Darin
 
I've not yet looked into it yet but how are you tapping into the drain line.

I also have question/concern on how you are planning on adding top off water? You have a line running from RO/DI reservoir to the skimmer section of the sump. Problem I see here is that this area will always be level and not fluctuate. If you put float valve/switch comp in the return section that is the area in which the water level will go up/down with evaporation.
 
I've not yet looked into it yet but how are you tapping into the drain line.

I also have question/concern on how you are planning on adding top off water? You have a line running from RO/DI reservoir to the skimmer section of the sump. Problem I see here is that this area will always be level and not fluctuate. If you put float valve/switch comp in the return section that is the area in which the water level will go up/down with evaporation.

My drain line has a capped off tap already, so i am just going to remove the cap and put in a trap and plumb to that.

As for top off, I haven't yet figured that one out, just put that line in as a place holder. I may invest in an ATO system, and then plumb that from the RO container. That line was for manual top off..

Thanks!

Darin
 
hows progress? what have you desice on return pump?

maybe a new diagramm:)

Hehe yes a new diagram has been made, I will upload it later tonight...

Lots of progress, I will take some pictures and post them. Got the basement stands built, the water change plumbing in, cleaned and polished the sump, and refinished the stand. Tank is now empty of it's vinegar water bath, scraped clean, and rinsed out...

Working on tank plumbing next.. have to see if the bulkheads that are on the tank are still ok, and have to figure out how to get out of the overflows the return piping that was installed by the guy who owned the tank before me. He used vinyl tubing for his returns, so he has barbed fittings into the bulkheads, which I will need to get out somehow. Hate to have to take off the bulkheads to get to the fittings, but may have to..

As for the return pump, I decided on a Reeflo Hammerhed Gold.. I am going to try it with one pump, and see how it goes. I will have plenty of room in the sump to put an extra pump in if I split off too much flow for the equipment and frag tank..

Anyway new diagram and pictures up tonight.

Darin
 
hey Darin
i think you should be ready to roll soon.. if i would be you i would change bulkheads to new once sch 80. i dont like those black cheapy bulkheads..
yeah try with one pump first , you can always add a pump.. no big deal..

mike
 
hey Darin
i think you should be ready to roll soon.. if i would be you i would change bulkheads to new once sch 80. i dont like those black cheapy bulkheads..
yeah try with one pump first , you can always add a pump.. no big deal..

mike

HA I wish! Looks like the plumbing fixtures won't be in until early next week..DAMN BULK REEF SUPPLY! lol.. They have great prices and customer service, but I seem to be in a slow delivery zone for them, takes 4-5 days for ground UPS.. And 2 day delivery was like $90 which is simply ridiculous.. oh well..:headwallblue:

And still have to decide on lighting.. still going back and forth between LED and MH/T5.. LED is my preference, but the upfront costs hurt.. While with MH I will need to get a chiller, as well as worry about the electricity costs..

The bulkheads seem to be Schedule 80 already, so maybe replacing them is the easiest..

darin
 
Dprill, I've done a lot of research and cost comparisons on LEDs versus metal halides....Upfront costs is definitely higher but with the electricity savings and long bulb life they pay for themselves over time. I will try to see if I can find the the excel spreadsheet I did the calculations on but I compared retro metal halides and electronic ballasts cost against the new Ecotech Radions and they were cheaper quicker than I expected!

My only concern is that the life of leds head not been proven but with the right cooling they should stand the test of time. I just hope to pick the right fixture and not end up with something like a Solaris LED where the company tanks and fixture is not worth anything....

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
 
Dprill, I've done a lot of research and cost comparisons on LEDs versus metal halides....Upfront costs is definitely higher but with the electricity savings and long bulb life they pay for themselves over time. I will try to see if I can find the the excel spreadsheet I did the calculations on but I compared retro metal halides and electronic ballasts cost against the new Ecotech Radions and they were cheaper quicker than I expected!

My only concern is that the life of leds head not been proven but with the right cooling they should stand the test of time. I just hope to pick the right fixture and not end up with something like a Solaris LED where the company tanks and fixture is not worth anything....

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

Dustin I do not doubt the technology at all. In a past life I did a lot of work with LED technology, including installation of an indoor flying (not anchored to floor or wall so it could be raised and lowered) LED HDTV of 90' x 70'.. heat dissipation is the key, and on a small scale like this I am sure they are dealing with the residual heat very well.

As for the company, I think more mainstream vendors are now entering the market, and will be more successful. Being on the cutting edge, technology companies take a great risk, but the more mature a technology gets, the less risky it is for the company, and the resulting adoption rates tend to offset the risk. I think companies like AI and Echotech will be around, baring any major mishaps with their technology.

Up front cost is the only issue I have.. have to find a way to squeeze it into the budget :-)

Darin
 
I think companies like AI and Echotech will be around, baring any major mishaps with their technology.

Up front cost is the only issue I have.. have to find a way to squeeze it into the budget :-)

Darin

Completely agree. The up front cost of the fixtures is what's delaying my DT going up as I need to increase the budget substantially and be ready to dive in all at once with the money in pocket. Until then, I can be satisfied with my Frag tank as I can house plenty of frags/coral/fish to grow out in the 140 gallon. It will also give it time to mature so right when I get the DT up and running it's matured and I can just put fish in!
 
Wha you guys think in regards of "clusting" LEDs and modular LEDs systems?..There is prons and cons to it.i am looking into LEDs my self and keep reading and reading,and still not sure. Been using Radiums for years with combination of VHO in past and T5s at the moment.
 
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