New 250g build, comments please...

[jtarmitage]

I am in the process of building a new 250, and preparing to order the tank. It will be 80"x24"x30". I would appreciate any advice on the design. My plan is to have a 2" drain to a sump, then fuge, etc, returning via a 1.5" return, which will be split into 4 returns. I will also have 2 2" drains, also located in the external overflow, which will supply the 2 closed loops with 4 1" returns in the front bottom of the tank, and 4 1" returns in the lower back. My first question is Will the overflow box be able to handle the flow to run 3 Sequence Snappers? Or, do I need to include additional drains in the back wall to supplement?

Also, the top of the tank is not what will likely happen, as this will be an acrylic tank, and I will need to discuss with the builder what is possible. I would like to limit the size of the lip of the tank in order to save the underside of my arms as much punishment as possible during the coraline scraping sessions. I realize that I will likely need at least 1, if not 2, braces for this tank.

Each closed loop will drain from a 2" bulkhead in the overflow box, and return from a Sequence Snapper through a OM 4 way through 2 front bottom and 2 rear lower returns.

Any comments thus far? I know that is just the tip of the iceberg for the plan, but I plan on ordering the tank this week and would appreciate any feedback before then.

 

[jtarmitage]

Anyone? Comments, suggestions, critisisms? I don't bite. Not too hard anyhow!

 

[mflamb]

You will need to discuss the flow characteristics of that overflow with the tank builder to see what it will handle. Otherwise, sounds good. Plan your top cross bracing around your lighting.

 

[Kannin]

I am no expert... I am looking at installing a closed loop and i was under the impression that it needs to be separate from your over flow. Possible problems which you may have already addressed...

1. can enough flow spill passively into your overflows to support your filter plus 2 CL's?

2. If your CL is truly closed... meaning that water is sucked from and returned to the tank with the same pump... there is no need for ball valves and no chance of flood.

Plus if your return system fails for some reason... your closed loop can still function and possibly avoid a crash.

Good luck... Did you have a Blue & white Chevelle in highschool?

 

[TIMMYE]

I would not do a CL pump from the overflow. It will have a tendencay to pick up air in the lines and make it ineffiecent. I would put your CL drains on the back wall.

 

[jtarmitage]

Kannin, The ability of the overflow to keep up with the CL is my primary concern right now, and I plan on having that discussion with the manufacturer. I will still include true union ball valves just incase the pumps need servicing, etc, but I agree, no chance of flood or the tank draining. Also, no, I did not have a Chevelle. I grew up in Healdsburg and drove a completely rebuilt GMC pickup.

Timmye, I originally planned on the CL drains from the back, but I recently decided to go with an external overlow, and was hoping to get rid of the drain lines and baskets from the tank as well if possible. Not sure if it will work yet or not, but it would sure be nice not to lose the space, as well as have something I need to hide in the tank. That is the question of the hour, where to put the CL drains?

Thanks for the replies, and if anyone wants to contribute their 2 cents, I am eager for the opinions.

 

[Acrylics]

I would tend to shy away from using the overflow as a CL drain, water is generally just too turbulent and you're bound to get a bunch of bubbles. If you use overflow teeth, may have a hard time keeping up with all that flow. May also be a noise issue with that much water spilling over. It can be done however as long as you maintain the overflow water level fairly high so as to keep bubbles out, use either deep or no teeth, and plan your standpipes well. Other than that, I'd suggest mounting CL drains somewhere in the back.

How many lights are you planning, I'm assuming MH? This should determine your bracing set-up. If 3 lights, two braces will be perfect and 3/4" material would be fine, 'course 1" would be better. If 2 or 4 lights, then one brace should do but would definitely use a thicker material as you want your perimeter flange as narrow as possible. 'Course you could do 3 braces for a 4-light set-up, would limit the opening size but the front flange could be made more narrow.

HTH,
James

 

[jtarmitage]

James, Just the person that I wanted to talk to after reading the Big Bertha thread!!! So many good reviews from the likes of the RC crowd says something. As for the CL drains, I was thinking that if the overflow box was moderately deep, I was planning 12", with a durso on the sump drain line to keep the water level higher, and silent, that this might work. Also, originally I was planning 2 2" drains for each CL, powered by Sequence Snappers. I also had the idea that if the overflow(with teeth to keep critters in tank) was insufficient, then I could add a single 2" drain in the back wall for each CL to help boost flow, but am not sure how that will work out. Any thoughts?

As for the lighting, I am planning on MH, either 3 or 4, not sure yet. My goal is to limit the lip on the top of the tank to save the undersides of my arms. How many braces would you suggest to minimize the lip? Also, I am now in need of someone to build this thing, you want to shoot me a call, email or PM? Don't suppose you do stands as well?
Jeremy

 

[Acrylics]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10039095#post10039095 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jtarmitage
As for the CL drains, I was thinking that if the overflow box was moderately deep, I was planning 12", with a durso on the sump drain line to keep the water level higher, and silent, that this might work. Also, originally I was planning 2 2" drains for each CL, powered by Sequence Snappers. I also had the idea that if the overflow(with teeth to keep critters in tank) was insufficient, then I could add a single 2" drain in the back wall for each CL to help boost flow, but am not sure how that will work out. Any thoughts?

Dunno really, never did a mixed loop like that. I don't see any reason why it would be any problem, other than plumbing it in, extra TUBV, fittings, etc. but not a biggie. I think it's a wise idea though, even if you only use it for one of the closed loops and let the overflow handle the remaining. Might want to make the overflow a bit deeper, maybe 15-16", that space gets used up quick by large Durso standpipes IME.

As for the lighting, I am planning on MH, either 3 or 4, not sure yet. My goal is to limit the lip on the top of the tank to save the undersides of my arms. How many braces would you suggest to minimize the lip?

As I see it, 3" perimeter flange, two 6" crossbraces so your openings would be something like 22 x 18", this would leave perfect space for 3 Lumenarcs.

HTH,
James