New 425g build

Coming along very nice! When I built my stand we shot for 40" as well because I wanted room for skimmer and reactors, dosing containers, etc. I can't imagine how much sand and rock would cost and water to fill that bad boy up from scratch. Good thing you have an established tank to help! Keep the pictures coming! Btw I like the rotti! :)


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Did you plan on putting some type of foam board under the tank when u fill it? Acrylic tank I would if I was u.
 
Did you plan on putting some type of foam board under the tank when u fill it? Acrylic tank I would if I was u.

Yes, I thought about that. That being said. I was researching this, and came across an acrylic guy on another forum, This is what he said.

Its a huge misconception to use foam under acrylic tanks.... It can/will lead to bottom seam failure. its like suspending ur tank on a bed of air... completely unnecessary and detrimental to acrylic tanks... Foam is for plate glass tanks with no trim.... place your acrylic tank directly on plywood on top of your stand. Cut holes in the ply so that ur bulkheads have room to be tightened up to the acrylic...not the wood, as others have stated. Get that foam outta there all together!!!!! Its an "urban myth" so to speak for acrylics.


Makes sense, I read others say yes.


Here is another one that says no.


Acrylic tanks are generally not recommended to be put on foam.

Glass doesn't bend so if the stand isn't perfect it will create pressure points. The foam helps remove those pressure points. This is mostly for glass tanks without plastic trim.

Acrylic will conform to the stand. The more it bends the more stress is on the acrylic. If you use foam there is no telling how much the tank will twist as different parts of the tank settle. It can accelerate crazing if you use foam.
 
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It looks like you used cabinet grade plywood that's smooth, you should be fine with no foam because it's already a smooth surface. but as always I would make sure it's completely level. Looks good Jim
 
Thanks Guys, I got a great deal on this. 1760 delivered. Top and 2 sides are 3/4 and the bottom 1/2.
 
Started building Durso's

Started building Durso's

Bought some of these Shark bite valves.

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I cut the top off them to get rid of the metal Shark bite.


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Drilled holes in the Durso caps.

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Screwed the air valves into the caps. You could seal them with something, mine pretty much screwed right in tight.


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And there you have it. Adjustable air valves for the top of the Durso's. I suppose you could do this on the side of the Durso if you were going to cover your overflow.

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I need some opinions, I have 2 L1 vortechs. Do you think I should run 1 to each overflow or one would be good enough /
 
I would run 2 since they are adjustable. So if 1 needs to be cleaned you can dial the other one up. I must suggest it before Mike and others will gate valves are your friend :).
 
My vote is for at least 2 return pumps for Redundant for number 1, number 2 that's a big tank I like a lot of turn over but I like a high turn over rate and change filter socks a lot but that's just me. Don't forget if u are going to build a manifold and divert some of that flow to rectors, fug, ect.
 
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I really like the air valves on the durso's like that. I will be borrowing this idea on my 180 build. As far as the pumps go I'm sure with a tank that large you could use all the flow and turn over you could get.
 
Got the sump.


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I tinted the sides with blackout tint.
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