Indiana Reefin
Garrett
Syncra 1.5
New 50g CADLights build!
- Thread starter LinkinReef
- Start date
Syncra 1.5
LinkinReef
Member
Well after a bump in the road with this tank I have received a new one from cad lights. It came drilled for a herbie method with metric size plumbing.
LinkinReef
Member
By any chance do you have a name, email, or phone number for anyone that works there at CAD Lights? I paid $400 for a new stand in December and I've been told it shipped several times, but I can't get anyone to respond or reply in three weeks, it's been 7 weeks since I was told it was heading to shipping. Any help at all would be much appreciated, sorry to threadjack.
LinkinReef
Member
Based on the last pics I uploaded, it's drilled to be meant to be a herbie method correct? But then I see the plumbing they sent and the drain pipe looks like a durso. If looked from the bottom up, the first one is the drain, second one is the emergency and top one is the return.
Can I just cut the drain halfway and remove the top so it becomes a herbie drain?
Also, is a foam necessary under the tank being a rimless tank? I'm using a homemade stand. The floor seems a little bit uneven from one side and I will be putting some shims under the stand to level it but not sure if the foam is needed in between the tank and stand.
Can I just cut the drain halfway and remove the top so it becomes a herbie drain?
Also, is a foam necessary under the tank being a rimless tank? I'm using a homemade stand. The floor seems a little bit uneven from one side and I will be putting some shims under the stand to level it but not sure if the foam is needed in between the tank and stand.
dkeller_nc
New member
CADLights told me that foam under the tank wasn't necessary on their 50g, but in my case, I used their stand. That said, the stand I received last spring with my 50g wasn't exactly high-end, and I would bet that most anyone's home build would be far sturdier. So long as there are no pressure points under the tank, I wouldn't think you'd need to use styrofoam under a tank of these dimensions.
If you want to be cautious but still use something that's unobtrusive, you could use a rubber router pad like this one from Woodcraft:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003174/2077/Bench-Mate-Non-Slip-Pad.aspx
If you want to be cautious but still use something that's unobtrusive, you could use a rubber router pad like this one from Woodcraft:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003174/2077/Bench-Mate-Non-Slip-Pad.aspx
LinkinReef
Member
New 50g CADLights build!
The dimensions on the stand I'm using are 48 x 24 x 35. So the tank is not actually sitting flushed with the stand. The stand has 4 - 2x4 on top, 2 on the outside seems to be slightly lower than the ones inside and the tank doesn't sit on them. It only sits on the inside ones. That's what kind of concerns me a little bit and why I was thinking of the foam.
The dimensions on the stand I'm using are 48 x 24 x 35. So the tank is not actually sitting flushed with the stand. The stand has 4 - 2x4 on top, 2 on the outside seems to be slightly lower than the ones inside and the tank doesn't sit on them. It only sits on the inside ones. That's what kind of concerns me a little bit and why I was thinking of the foam.
dkeller_nc
New member
Were it my tank, I wouldn't place it on a stand that has solid-wood 2x4's on the top as the main support. I would level the 2x4's as best I could, and retro-fit the top with a solid piece of 3/4" plywood. Having pressure points on the bottom of a rimless tank is asking for it, in my opinion.
LinkinReef
Member
I was actually going to place a 3/4" plywood on top of the stand for the tank to sit on and maybe the foam on top of the plywood.
Would it be ok to level the plywood sitting on the 2x4 with some shims in between the 2x4's and the plywood?
Would it be ok to level the plywood sitting on the 2x4 with some shims in between the 2x4's and the plywood?
dkeller_nc
New member
I would suggest that you level the stand itself instead (with shims). That'll have the bonus of also leveling your sump.
LinkinReef
Member
New 50g CADLights build!
Oh ok, I will be adding shims to level the stand itself because of the uneven floor. But how about at the top of the stand? Once I place the plywood, it will be sitting on the 2x4's but based to the level in the last pictures, the plywood won't sit on the outside 2x4's since there is a very small gap. Should I shim that as well?
The tank isn't going to be hanging either by the way.
Oh ok, I will be adding shims to level the stand itself because of the uneven floor. But how about at the top of the stand? Once I place the plywood, it will be sitting on the 2x4's but based to the level in the last pictures, the plywood won't sit on the outside 2x4's since there is a very small gap. Should I shim that as well?
The tank isn't going to be hanging either by the way.
dkeller_nc
New member
Well, I wouldn't worry so much about the plywood not setting completely flush on the outside 2x4s, but if you want to be cautious, there's no reason not to fill the gaps with some shims.
LinkinReef
Member
Sweet. I'll definitely fill in the gaps with something just to be on the safe side.
LinkinReef
Member
Made a quick mockup of the plumbing. Any suggestions if it's any good or what can be made better? The ball valves in the picture will be replaced with gate valves and the non-professional paint drawings will be gate valves as well. The yellow boxes in the picture will be unions for a quick disconnect if needed.
1" Drain will be dialed with a gate valve since it's a herbie method drilled tank. Water goes into the next chamber which will be the return chamber. From there it will be tee'd off to the right to the fuge which will also be dialed with a gate valve. From the tee to the right will be to feed one or two reactors. From the tee to the top will be the 1/2" return line that will also be controlled with a gate valve "if needed" or I might replace this with a union check valve instead.
1" Drain will be dialed with a gate valve since it's a herbie method drilled tank. Water goes into the next chamber which will be the return chamber. From there it will be tee'd off to the right to the fuge which will also be dialed with a gate valve. From the tee to the right will be to feed one or two reactors. From the tee to the top will be the 1/2" return line that will also be controlled with a gate valve "if needed" or I might replace this with a union check valve instead.
LinkinReef
Member
bump. Any suggestions?
dkeller_nc
New member
Here's a couple:
You might want to put the valve (that's a ball valve in the pic, btw, not a gate valve) on your drain on the vertical portion coming from the tank. That allows you to valve down the drain a bit so that there's a short column of water above the valve. Doing that greatly cuts down on noise and entrained air.
Make sure that you have enough room in your constant-level skimmer chamber to accommodate a heater - you never want to put a heater in a chamber that can drain.
You might consider tee-ing your drain line and running one leg to the refugium. Since a refugium doesn't need much flow, there's no particular reason to add friction to your pump outlet with the necessary plumbing to supply the 'fuge.
Finally, I'd consider making room for the installation of at least one TLF phosban reactor. They're very handy for GFO, GAC or bio-pellets.
You might want to put the valve (that's a ball valve in the pic, btw, not a gate valve) on your drain on the vertical portion coming from the tank. That allows you to valve down the drain a bit so that there's a short column of water above the valve. Doing that greatly cuts down on noise and entrained air.
Make sure that you have enough room in your constant-level skimmer chamber to accommodate a heater - you never want to put a heater in a chamber that can drain.
You might consider tee-ing your drain line and running one leg to the refugium. Since a refugium doesn't need much flow, there's no particular reason to add friction to your pump outlet with the necessary plumbing to supply the 'fuge.
Finally, I'd consider making room for the installation of at least one TLF phosban reactor. They're very handy for GFO, GAC or bio-pellets.
LinkinReef
Member
The gate valve on vertical position definitely sounds better.
I will be using a apex to control the heater. Should I place the heater in the skimmer chamber and the temp probe in the fuge chamber or the other way around?
Do I need any valve going to the fuge if I tee it off from the drain in case it's too much flow or would that hurt it?
I was thinking of using one of the brs reactors in the skimmer chamber that's in the picture on the bottom left corner. Would that chamber be ok or would it be better placed in a different chamber?
Thanks for the help!
I will be using a apex to control the heater. Should I place the heater in the skimmer chamber and the temp probe in the fuge chamber or the other way around?
Do I need any valve going to the fuge if I tee it off from the drain in case it's too much flow or would that hurt it?
I was thinking of using one of the brs reactors in the skimmer chamber that's in the picture on the bottom left corner. Would that chamber be ok or would it be better placed in a different chamber?
Thanks for the help!
I suggest a valve on the drain to the fuge- another valve never hurts. As far as the BRS reactor in the skimmer chamber I dont think that will harm a thing. Better to be there then before your return so your skimmer may pickup some of the GFO debris after a fresh tank (which is good IMO).
LinkinReef
Member
New 50g CADLights build!
I put a tee off the drain to feed the fuge but for some reason even though the valve to the fuge is completely open, there's no water coming out of it
Everything is completely leveled, the pvc plumbing isn't glued yet because I want to make sure this works, but even that's leveled.
I made a tee off the return line to feed a couple of reactors for gfo and carbon. I will be using a sicce pump with 568gph will that be enough for the tank and to feed the brs reactors?
I put a tee off the drain to feed the fuge but for some reason even though the valve to the fuge is completely open, there's no water coming out of it
Everything is completely leveled, the pvc plumbing isn't glued yet because I want to make sure this works, but even that's leveled.I made a tee off the return line to feed a couple of reactors for gfo and carbon. I will be using a sicce pump with 568gph will that be enough for the tank and to feed the brs reactors?
cakemanPA
New member
If you are having issues with water not going to the refugium side of the T, you will need a valve on the other side to restrict flow. The water is just taking the path of least resistance. I will be needing lots of valves in my new set up to do the same.
I put a tee off the drain to feed the fuge but for some reason even though the valve to the fuge is completely open, there's no water coming out of it
I made a tee off the return line to feed a couple of reactors for gfo and carbon. I will be using a sicce pump with 568gph will that be enough for the tank and to feed the brs reactors?
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