IMO - when people ask for the tank parameters... and the OP keeps saying "they tested good" that means they probably didnt test good. . . . . just saying.
I was on that boat for while when I realized that "good" between experienced hobbyists and people who are just getting started is vastly different.
I test my water enough understand the components of the primary tank "cycle" which converts feces (nitrate source) to nitrite which is removed from the water, as well as the toxicity of certain parameters including PO4, NH3/4 and so fourth. And the importance of excess protein removal through proper skimming (which turns out has its own finesse).
I learned this organic chemistry and watched my tank cycle via test kits and diatom observation. I did not use a single drop of any chemical to engender "proper" cycling. I exclusively test my water and was able to track my progress through to the end point of cycling using my reef chemical tests (for the record this NO such thing as a fully cycled tank).
When I say good its means:
Nitrates, Phosphates, Ammonia and Nitirites are all undetectable with my basic test kits, so around 0 (I am guilty of not being more precise with my measurements).
My calcium levels are monitored weekly; at the time of ritteri introduction it was at 380 mg/L. I use exclusively Seachem Reef salt with RODI water mixed at 75 degrees F to a solution with a specific gravity of 1.027 (validated with a swing arm instrument, I am confident because I take about 10 measurements prior to adding the solution to my DT but come down on me for lack of accuracy if you will)
Given the guaranteed trace element concentrations I should have a stable equilibrium.
The equilibrium which I maintain includes Alk (available carbonate), Calcium ion concentration, and Magnesium ion concentration.
These three components are locked into equilibrium by the pH (hydrogen ion concentration) and temperature.
Without an understanding of this equilibrium, a change in a single parameter maybe a result of ANY other parameter change, thus a drop in Ca may not necessitate additional Ca through dosing, rather a correction to the equilibrium.
sorry for your loss, as i know how it feels to be broke after trying to make something pull around, but thats the hobby for ya

and im gonna agree with others. . . . just wait a little bit longer and let your parameters stable out... then try again.. but with a healthy one.
Thanks :beer: