New addition what is it???

if adding the sand, 2 months ago, and moving some rocks around is all that it took to kill that anemone; either the anemone was already on its way out, or your tank is not established.

I have added sand, moved rocks around, and most recently moved and my anemones have been fine.

pjtree23 said:
it was deflated but not disintegrating in a tank with crazy leds

+1
 
This is total bullsh*t and I absolutely hate all of the know-it-all fat single men on this board who make comments like "these are expert level anemones, maybe your calc fell by 2 mg" or something moot like that so just save it.

Well, I'm overweight, single at the moment, and not a man, but I'll still try not to take it personally. :rolleyes:

Just be advised that the experienced posters here who seem like buzzkills and naysayers do want to help you out--that's why they advise people not to make rash purchases, or try setups that aren't likely to work out (for example, more than two clownfish per tank). If their advice makes you angry, you're really fighting with yourself--the side that secretly suspects that you should listen to the advice versus your ego, which just wants to do what it wants to do regardless of probable consequences. The energy you expend in being snarky and defensive would be better spent in thinking out the situation.

You'll find that people on this forum really are willing to help you out and answer your questions, if you're willing to listen and take some constructive criticism. Even if other posters question your decisions or methods, it's never a personal attack, so just keep that in mind.
 
Yea pretty rude dude id be ****ed to done that dance b4 doing the dance now doesn't mean u **** on the ppl with some strong knowledge be like yelling at a doctor when u ask him to diagonose you
 
I have a theory now:

A few months ago I added 20 lbs of sugar fine sand...there was a "mini-cycle" which came and went. The day I hear one was availiable I created the column and anemone "nest", installation of that and disturbing the sand bed could have caused a "micro-cycle" to occur around the anemone alone!

I plan to wait about a year with my current setup and try another one then.

so your theory contradicts you saying that the tank params were good before you put it in. even though you havent said what they were, and unless you clean the tank 2wice a day then it is also a newly setup tank.
 
so your theory contradicts you saying that the tank params were good before you put it in. even though you havent said what they were, and unless you clean the tank 2wice a day then it is also a newly setup tank.

I do regular water changes and did test the tank the day before and after. My rock has been alive and in my possession for 2 years, between two tanks, as well as most of the sand.
 
Why would anyone be positive with your attitude, you didn't ask yourself what happened. You just straight blamed the specimen for being sensitive, these are all very sensitive animals. Secondly you didn't answer a simple parameters and age of tank question which means something isn't correct there otherwise its a simple question. These animals are not just something you throw more money at to survive, it takes some skill and than also dedication which seems you have neither by your response. Both nems I got are doing great and they were the first ones I got, but I had a keen eye to see what would be good specimEns. I would have never grabbed one that was deflated in the first place as that could mean troubles before you ever touched it. Next time don't blame everyone else cause you had an issue
 
Why would anyone be positive with your attitude, you didn't ask yourself what happened.

Uh yes great fish god, that was before it occurred to me that the new sand addition caused a re-cycle. I did ask myself several times.

You just straight blamed the specimen for being sensitive, these are all very sensitive animals.

Not sure what you mean, my parameters tested good. The 75 g tank has been running with the new bean animal since April so 4 months, but my 29g which water, live rock and sand came from had been running for 8 months.

Secondly you didn't answer a simple parameters and age of tank question which means something isn't correct there otherwise its a simple question.

I was thinking about that and realized that age is more relative because people are constantly adding new equipment. I recently added a new reactor, and had to replace the sump because it broke. So I think a better question is "When was the last time new equipment was added".

I read posts about corals mysteriously stopping growth, then it turns out only a few lights were changed recently.

These animals are not just something you throw more money at to survive, it takes some skill and than also dedication which seems you have neither by your response.

This is gonna be my new sig...thanks

Both nems I got are doing great and they were the first ones I got, but I had a keen eye to see what would be good specimEns.

What kind of nems, and what size tank? Sounds like you have a great setup.

I would have never grabbed one that was deflated in the first place as that could mean troubles before you ever touched it.

This is great advice :deadhorse:

Next time don't blame everyone else cause you had an issue

Thank you :deadhorse:

Cheers boys. Until my tank matures!

:beer:
 
PJtree23 -- it would serve you well (( and anything you keep )) if you would lose the attitude. You are making it difficult to help, you may not want to hear it, but some people might actually know a thing or two that you don't.
 
IMO - when people ask for the tank parameters... and the OP keeps saying "they tested good" that means they probably didnt test good. . . . . just saying.

sorry for your loss, as i know how it feels to be broke after trying to make something pull around, but thats the hobby for ya :P and im gonna agree with others. . . . just wait a little bit longer and let your parameters stable out... then try again.. but with a healthy one.
 
Wonder if the OP has ever successfully kept a nem before. If not, I would never jump into a difficult one like this. I know you say you researched but that sometimes is not enough to keep one healthy. If I was you I would start with a BTA or something like that.
 
Wonder if the OP has ever successfully kept a nem before. If not, I would never jump into a difficult one like this. I know you say you researched but that sometimes is not enough to keep one healthy. If I was you I would start with a BTA or something like that.

I have never kept a nem successfully. My issue with "starting" with a BTA is that I would eventually have to get rid of it to "finish" with a ritteri.

According to (non-published and non-peer reviewed) literature, there can be chemical signatures in the water between con-species of anemone reducing chances of survival.

For the record I never asked anyone for advice about why my ritteri died. The reason; everyone has a different tale ending in success or failure. There are no published, peer reviewed scientific literature indicating the "proper" conditions for a ritteri. Thus, you can not simply compare tank parameters...its meaningless and on that note the people who claim they know the "correct" parameters are delusional.
 
Anemones are hard animals to keep alive no matter how long your tank has been up.

It is good advice that you should wait till your tank has about 6 months to year on it. If you are using rock and water and sand from another system i would still tell you to wait a couple months.

Magnificas are the hardest animals to keep alive and are not suggested for someone as a first anemone. I would actually not reccomend anyone who hasnt kept a bubbletip anemone buying a gigantea, a mertens, a crispa, a magnifica, a haddoni.

One thing i have also learned is that if you buy an anemone from a store without seeing it at least three different times three different days your taking a big chance.

If each time you go in the anemone is inflated good chance its happy, if at any of three times its mouth is gaping or open bigger then its sick. I usally put the anemone on hold and come back a couple times to make sure.
 
There are no published, peer reviewed scientific literature indicating the "proper" conditions for a ritteri.


Look up Anemonefish and their Host Anemones by Dr. Fautin and Dr. Allen. That is a pretty good place to start for scientific literature.

Besides this published, peer reviewed scientific literature, there is only books and articles that are written by hobbyiest that are readily available.

Also i can tell you there is proper conditions for Magnifica.
They like to attach to flat rocks
They like flow that is consititent with flow on a reef that makes the anemone wave back and forth or sway.
They like intense light they are found on reefs among SPS or in colonys where there is constant exposure to strong light or in lagoons where they are sometimes exposed completey to the air at low tide.
They also are hardest anemone to keep besides gigantea
 
IMO - when people ask for the tank parameters... and the OP keeps saying "they tested good" that means they probably didnt test good. . . . . just saying.

I was on that boat for while when I realized that "good" between experienced hobbyists and people who are just getting started is vastly different.

I test my water enough understand the components of the primary tank "cycle" which converts feces (nitrate source) to nitrite which is removed from the water, as well as the toxicity of certain parameters including PO4, NH3/4 and so fourth. And the importance of excess protein removal through proper skimming (which turns out has its own finesse).

I learned this organic chemistry and watched my tank cycle via test kits and diatom observation. I did not use a single drop of any chemical to engender "proper" cycling. I exclusively test my water and was able to track my progress through to the end point of cycling using my reef chemical tests (for the record this NO such thing as a fully cycled tank).

When I say good its means:

Nitrates, Phosphates, Ammonia and Nitirites are all undetectable with my basic test kits, so around 0 (I am guilty of not being more precise with my measurements).

My calcium levels are monitored weekly; at the time of ritteri introduction it was at 380 mg/L. I use exclusively Seachem Reef salt with RODI water mixed at 75 degrees F to a solution with a specific gravity of 1.027 (validated with a swing arm instrument, I am confident because I take about 10 measurements prior to adding the solution to my DT but come down on me for lack of accuracy if you will)

Given the guaranteed trace element concentrations I should have a stable equilibrium.

The equilibrium which I maintain includes Alk (available carbonate), Calcium ion concentration, and Magnesium ion concentration.

These three components are locked into equilibrium by the pH (hydrogen ion concentration) and temperature.

Without an understanding of this equilibrium, a change in a single parameter maybe a result of ANY other parameter change, thus a drop in Ca may not necessitate additional Ca through dosing, rather a correction to the equilibrium.

sorry for your loss, as i know how it feels to be broke after trying to make something pull around, but thats the hobby for ya :P and im gonna agree with others. . . . just wait a little bit longer and let your parameters stable out... then try again.. but with a healthy one.

Thanks :beer:
 
I use exclusively Seachem Reef salt with RODI water mixed at 75 degrees F to a solution with a specific gravity of 1.027 (validated with a swing arm instrument, I am confident because I take about 10 measurements prior to adding the solution to my DT but come down on me for lack of accuracy if you will)


Thanks :beer:

Swing arm instruments for reading salt levels are NOTORIOUSLY inaccurate.

Repeatable yes, but very inaccurate.

SO, you may have read 10 times, it probably read the same all 10 times, but it was likely wrong all 10 times.

I recently purchesed one at the LFS and compared to my calibrated refractometer.

Guess what?

It read .04 low! So, if It was reading 1.026, my tank was actually 1.030!
 
Swing arm instruments for reading salt levels are NOTORIOUSLY inaccurate.

Repeatable yes, but very inaccurate.

SO, you may have read 10 times, it probably read the same all 10 times, but it was likely wrong all 10 times.

I recently purchesed one at the LFS and compared to my calibrated refractometer.

Guess what?

It read .04 low! So, if It was reading 1.026, my tank was actually 1.030!


Mine reads low as well.. However, there is a nice DIY calibration method for hydrometers outlined in a reefkeeping mag article by Randy Holmes-Farley (http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-06/rhf/index.php) .. After tests and corrections, then compared to a digital hydrometer.. I am confident in its accuracy now.. I periodicaly recheck it at times..
 
I have never kept a nem successfully. My issue with "starting" with a BTA is that I would eventually have to get rid of it to "finish" with a ritteri.

According to (non-published and non-peer reviewed) literature, there can be chemical signatures in the water between con-species of anemone reducing chances of survival.

Starting with an easier nem will at least give you some husbandry experience with nems. They are not as easy as some make them out to be. I started with condys a long time ago and them went to RBTA. Now I have a blue Haddoni and a BTA in the same tank with no issues. You can always sell the BTA down the road when you are comfortable taking care of them. Sometimes baby steps gets you where you want to be faster.
 
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