New Bubble Tip Anemone, lookin' healthy?

[Ztrain]

I have some hunches about mine. It didn't look all that great in the store. So they gave it too me for almost half off. I didn't realize it had two mouths until I got it home. Dunno if it was trying to split and couldn't for some reason or not. Been looking around around and see that people are suggesting 0 nitrates and 0 phosphate. So will give that a try. I've heard that some is needed for photosynthesis. But others say nope go with 0 so I may try setting up bio balls to strip them out before I try another nem. Also trying to get a definitive answer about temperature. Some say that 78 is proper others same warmer is better. Randy Holmes said he keeps his tank at 80 so I'm inclined to keep mine at that. Dunno. I'll change a few things after those have stabilized I'll get another nem and see what happens with that. Eventually I'll figure out a combination that works.

 

[Nikky.Werr]

I live in Dominican Republic, a tropical island. The coolest I can keep it is 78-79 but my tank temp normally runs at 80 even if I have my air conditioner on (since my sump helps maintain a more balanced temp). I noticed that my bta deflates the day after she is fed. I've stopped worrying about her dying and I'm just maintaining stable tank parameters. I do weekly 10% water changes except at the end of the month where I do a 25-30%. I test params twice a week to be sure but will be doing once a week eventually. Mostly I'm just learning to look at my livestock and really notice if something is actually (visually) wrong. This is my first tank and though Ive had it for quite some time now I still feel like a noob (well i kind of still am one...) and I get worried over small nothings. Thats crazy about it having two mouths, I've seen some pictures of anemones like that and I wonder if its as you say, maybe a split "gone wrong" or maybe a genetic mutation. Would be interesting to research that. for nitrates and phosphates I've found that the dr. tims active pearls are really great. I placed them in the "filter" part of my sump and it brought my nitrates down to 0, my phosphates were already pretty low but it brought those down too. Dunno how you'd feel about using that since it isn't exactly natural like algae etc. I'm also a fan of seachem. I use purigen and matrix and every once in a while their carbon brand as well. Again this is what i think works for me to keep my tank stable. I'm sure there's more natural ways I mean some people just use live rock and sand as their filter which is awesome. Anyways good luck with your tank!
And again thank you to everyone who took the time to answer my thread. All your information has been well used and much appreciated

 

[Ztrain]

I've stopped worrying about her dying and I'm just maintaining stable tank parameters.

That's pretty much what I'm coming too. When I started out with my two clowns the first couple weeks were non stop terror. I made a joke on the ReefCentral IRC that pretty much put it the way it really is. When the clowns start acting normal it's time to worry. They do things like stay motionless in the corner with their face planted on the bottom of the tank and their tail straight up above them. All sorts of other odd things. Sure enough every morning up and swimming around generally before I am waving their fins around going where's my food? I was worried about the hermits having enough algae to eat then saw them chowing down on left over fish pellets. They've molted and seem to be doing fine.

 

[Nikky.Werr]

Hah, yeah eventually you just become accustomed to what is "normal" for your tank

 

[Retromagnolia]

So after a week of looking lovely like the above pictures, my bta is like this now. I've read that gaping mouths are basically death sentences. My paramenters are the same: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate <1, phosphate 0, ph 8.1, salinity 1.024-1.026. I havent introduced any new livestock, I havent added any chemicals.:sad1:

Those parameters all sound good. I would consider after that the alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. Anemones can be picky like corals because of the photosynthesis dependency. Calcium sustained at 420-460 will encourage more coraline growth which in turn helps with the amount of zooanthellae in the tank system. Alkalinity between 8-12 dkh is good. Even magnesium can play a large roll because it helps the coral/anemones to photosynthesize better. With the regular water changes you probably have plenty of trace elements but that could be considered too like vitamins. I hope this helps. Better late then never right? Lol.

 

[Pedrombare]

hola, también sy de republica dominicana! vendo corales por si te interesa. soy de santiago