New Guy

Are you running any kind of auto top off for your system from your ro/di unit, or do you just top off as needed?
 
I have a 20 tall I fill from the RO couple times a week put a couple tbsp of Kalk in I have a cheap powerhead that's hooked to Ice maker line that goes to a float valve in my sump works pretty well for me
 
I've been reading up on Kalk as well, I know the why and how of it, but not the practical application. I had a couple ideas for an ATO, using a lift pump with a float valve to avoid syphon effect. I really have to figure out how to change my power point slides to PDF or JPG so I can upload them on here.
 
sounds like it should work my powerhead is always running it don't care either way eventually it will cake up with kalk and I just soak it in vinegar. I like float valve's they are either open or closed unlike electronics which are going to fail, especially considering they not found of water, ok see ya
 
Yep, saltwater is pretty corrosive. I am reminded of a car I bought 18 years ago, look at all the cool buttons, everything lights up. I figured out after awhile, cool buttons = more points of failure.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14768522#post14768522 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tkriverman
How often do you have to replace your filters and membrane?
Click to expand...

From FAQ No. 1 on our website:

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called “prefilters”) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin â€"œ remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ
 
Thanks for the info buckeye, I did read that, I was curious specifically how often aries has to change his, because his water source is local to mine. Good info though, Thank you.
 
Wife picked up the AGA 125 rr from petco yesterday. (got it for the clearance price, even though they tried to charge her full price for it) It's sitting on the dining room table, eargly awaiting my return. I also got an AC JR for a killer price with a temp probe, serial port and a DC 8. Can't wait till I get home and get this puppy going.
 
Well I traded the Racoon for a Scopas Tang today, the racoon started togo after my gorgs, oh well


Dan
 
Well I guess your racoon got to travel anyway! Sorry he had to go though. Cool looking tang, is yours one color, or a blend?
 
What return pump do you guys recommend for my tank. It has 2 ea 1" drains, and 2 ea 3/4" returns. I was thinking a Mag 18 or a Gen X mak4. Am I in the ballpark here?
 
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