New Mantis Shrimp set up ideas

Optic

New member
hey guys,

Brand new to the forum here, Can't believe I've found a forum for Mantis Shrimps!

Anyway... I Owned a Mantis shrimp about 4 years ago now, had him for 2 years then he died :( , not sure what happened but when it happened I just didn't have the heart to do it again...

But In saying that, I really want to get one again but with the right set up, all the bells and whistles.

So basically I need some ideas of set ups, I've looked through all of the posts on here and have found a few ideas but not everything yet.

1 - Tank Size?
2 - Filters? I don't want to run a sump...ideally but I can if I have to.
3 - Lighting
4 - Live rock or no live rock? I want a peacock smasher ( clubber )
5 - How much light do I need for the live rock?

I'm sure there's plenty more that needs answering, If anyone can help me out that would be amazing.

Cheers

Daniel.
 
Welcome to the stomatopod forum! We're a small bunch of nice guys here ^_^ what species did you want buddy?

That's good to hear :)

I'm not exactly sure, I'm from Melbourne Australia so whatever is the easiest species to get here. It's definitely going to be a smasher of some sort. Hopefully an active one that can grow to a medium size, 10-15cm
 
That's good to hear :)

I'm not exactly sure, I'm from Melbourne Australia so whatever is the easiest species to get here. It's definitely going to be a smasher of some sort. Hopefully an active one that can grow to a medium size, 10-15cm

Your best off starting with a small common smasher species that many LFS will have a couple of in stock.

Most likely candidates are G.smithii and G.graphurus who both get to 90mm long and who have both relatively exactly the same care levels and high endurance, the only difference between them is that G.graphurus is slightly more colorful.

1Q - Tank Size?
1A - Small Smashers around 90mm are happy in 30L-40L.

2Q - Filters? I don't want to run a sump...ideally but I can if I have to.
2A - (In order of Best to worst)... Sumps are good because they allow for future alterations of things easily when you may want to change or add things to your existing setup, they also help in a big way with increasing overall water volume and the more water volume the slower that water changes its parameters (small water volume systems change in parameters dramatically and swiftly).
#1 Sump + Skimmer + Refugium + RODI ATO
#2 Sump + Skimmer + Refugium
#3 Sump + Skimmer
#4 Sump + Refugium
#5 Sump + Internal/External Power Filter
#6 Internal/External Power Filter


3Q - Lighting?
3A - Will the tank have any corals, Stomatopods do not need light to live.
(I had corals in my mantis shrimp tanks but used these cheap in price but AWESOME in strength and PAR reading LED lights https://www.reefbreeders.com/photon-series/ )

4iQ - Live rock or no live rock?
4iA - Yes, you need live rock, with minimal or maximal filtration in the tank live rock is still and will always be an important part of biological filtration for the marine aquarium, but there are better alternatives I am in love with MarinePure Blocks the 8"x8"x4" thick chunks, simply because you know what you buy when you buy MarinePure but with traditional live rock it is often very random in its porosity and porosity is everything when it comes to live rock, dense areas with low porosity in traditional live rock are useless.
http://www.cermedia.com/marinepure.php

4iiQ - I want a peacock smasher?
4iiA - You are not prepared... :) (Peacocks are the most difficult to keep long term).

5Q - How much light do I need for the live rock?
5A - Anything really, you do not need a expensive fancy reef light for a mantis shrimp only aquarium.
(Again I had coral in my tanks so used good but cheap LED fixtures made by ReefBreeder from his Photon series, because of the depth of my tanks and the height available above them for lights I used these LED fixtures but toned them right down to 10% power through the use of the onboard PCs in each LED fixture).
 
Your best off starting with a small common smasher species that many LFS will have a couple of in stock.

Most likely candidates are G.smithii and G.graphurus who both get to 90mm long and who have both relatively exactly the same care levels and high endurance, the only difference between them is that G.graphurus is slightly more colorful.

1Q - Tank Size?
1A - Small Smashers around 90mm are happy in 30L-40L.

2Q - Filters? I don't want to run a sump...ideally but I can if I have to.
2A - (In order of Best to worst)... Sumps are good because they allow for future alterations of things easily when you may want to change or add things to your existing setup, they also help in a big way with increasing overall water volume and the more water volume the slower that water changes its parameters (small water volume systems change in parameters dramatically and swiftly).
#1 Sump + Skimmer + Refugium + RODI ATO
#2 Sump + Skimmer + Refugium
#3 Sump + Skimmer
#4 Sump + Refugium
#5 Sump + Internal/External Power Filter
#6 Internal/External Power Filter


3Q - Lighting?
3A - Will the tank have any corals, Stomatopods do not need light to live.
(I had corals in my mantis shrimp tanks but used these cheap in price but AWESOME in strength and PAR reading LED lights https://www.reefbreeders.com/photon-series/ )

4iQ - Live rock or no live rock?
4iA - Yes, you need live rock, with minimal or maximal filtration in the tank live rock is still and will always be an important part of biological filtration for the marine aquarium, but there are better alternatives I am in love with MarinePure Blocks the 8"x8"x4" thick chunks, simply because you know what you buy when you buy MarinePure but with traditional live rock it is often very random in its porosity and porosity is everything when it comes to live rock, dense areas with low porosity in traditional live rock are useless.
http://www.cermedia.com/marinepure.php

4iiQ - I want a peacock smasher?
4iiA - You are not prepared... :) (Peacocks are the most difficult to keep long term).

5Q - How much light do I need for the live rock?
5A - Anything really, you do not need a expensive fancy reef light for a mantis shrimp only aquarium.
(Again I had coral in my tanks so used good but cheap LED fixtures made by ReefBreeder from his Photon series, because of the depth of my tanks and the height available above them for lights I used these LED fixtures but toned them right down to 10% power through the use of the onboard PCs in each LED fixture).


just went to just about every local shop within my area (6 ) and they can't guarantee what type they can get me....I basically said i want a small smasher that is blue/green in color

I've decide that I'm going for an Ocean Free 64L tank All in one....Simple set up that should do everything I want and need I hope.

What sort of base do you recommend? just sand or something else? ( I've watch your videos on youtube ;) )

Is there test kits I can get to check how my water quality is/keep an eye on it? What salt levels etc etc should I be aiming for?

thanks :)
 
Get a hygrometer for salinity, one that looks like a telescope. I wouldn't bother with testing kits personally, just do regular water changes and get a skimmer running
 
I like a refractometer for testing salinity. They may seem more expensive, but it's worth it. I've nearly crashed tanks before, including my current tank, due to faulty salinity test instruments.

I have a video out on YouTube that shows my setup and discusses some of the basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27ejOxSlTQY

If you want to get a Peacock, I recommend trying to find a smaller specimen as they are usually more hardy than the older, larger ones. A PVC pipe makes a great burrow for a Peacock as shown in the video. I encrust mine with epoxy and gravel to disguise their appearance.

In my opinion, test kits are nice to have in the beginning (ammonia/nitrite especially). After a complete cycle, the only test that is really important is nitrates because they will creep up over time, especially if you have a deep sand bed. Excess algae in the tank will tell you if you have a problem with excess nutrients like nitrate and phosphate. I run a refugium with macroalgae to absorb some of the excess nutrients and I also now run a hang-on-back skimmer.
 
Word for word what nmotz said,

Hydrometers are just bait to crash an entire tank. Sometimes in the first month of using them, they give highly inaccurate results. You can recalibrate them with a marker and fresh water, but the issue is there is only so much room in a hydrometer to recalibrate, what's off the charts might not be shown, whereas a refractometer is more consistent in accuracy, while still being balancable.

The one I have, has a little screw for recalibrating, if you need a model to purchase, I'd recommend this: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+27697+28224+9957&pcatid=9957
 
Thanks all for your help, I've learnt a lot already.

Nmotz, that video was awesome, keep up the good work!, nice mantis as well 😊.

I thought having a big sand bed was a good idea but now I'm confused as you say they can build up nitrates? Which I can see how they would but wouldn't the mantis like to have it?

Can someone please give me some insight into this set up http://www.aquaone.com.au/2015-04-16-04-47-04/2015-04-16-06-00-17/aquariums/item/3380-53418wh
I really want to buy one package that comes with it all instead of building my own as I think that would be too hard lol. Unless someone can list stuff that I should get? This aqua one kit comes with everything including a sump set up, I just hope it's big enough.

Cheers guys
 
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Found this guy at Underwater World SEA LIFE Mooloolaba, Australia.

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He had a nice little set up, highly recommend the place if anyone is coming down under.
 
That is a nice set-up in the picture for sure. Great size and open space for the Peacock to roam around.

Deep sand beds can become a challenge to maintain because detritus builds up and can break down into nitrates. But you can certainly have success with a DSB if you are willing to keep it clean and have a good nutrient export process in place. But remember that for a Peacock, they prefer a fairly long U-shaped burrow and they grow to 6"+ in length so to have a sand bed to accommodate that is a challenge in any tank. That's why it is often recommended to have a more manageable depth of sand (2-3" max) with a PVC pipe.

Kharn has had success by covering a fairly large PVC pipe with a few inches of crushed coral substrate. You can see that in some of his videos. In my opinion, if you run a good skimmer and a macroalgae refugium, you can still keep the water fairly clean.
 
Thanks, I will get that 90l set up soon.

I like the idea of the mantis making there own burrows but I might have to go down the pvc road by the looks of it.

I don't think I'll get a peacock, I would prefer just a blue one, which I think is a simthi?

Also what clean up crew should I keep with a mantis? I know they might be eaten, that doesn't bother me. I just want something to help with keeping everything under control.
 
Just use the cheapest hermits you can find. So if they do get eaten it won't cost too much to replace. I just kept a bunch of red leg hermits with all my mantis.
 
G smithii tend to be green to black in colour I think with a blue meral spot, male ternatensis are blue as are I believe male gonodactylaceus Glabrous and also graphurus (all 3 of these are gonodactylaceus). Other blue species could include some odontodactylids including odontodactylus scyllarus (peacock). N.wennerae is not one I get imported to my country but I don't believe that they can be blue either
 
Mantis shrimp have different food preferences. Some won't touch hermits, others won't touch snails, it's kinda weird. Usually what will work is if you get one or two larger snails (but NOT Turbos) that the mantis won't be able to crack open.

If you get a Smithii it will probably like smaller snails like dwarf ceriths (not sure if you have those in Australia). I keep blue leg hermits in my tank and they clean up leftover debris pretty well.

I also like a more natural tank but sometimes the needs of the animal have to outweigh my own personal desires. Marine biologists almost always recommend PVC for Peacocks so I have to trust that it's better for them. But in a perfect world, I would love to have a huge tank with a 12" bed of mixed substrate and some big rocks for them to dig underneath, just like in the wild.
 
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