there's not much pressure in that. only 1/4" copper tubing.
on the off chance this doesn't work, how would I do that?
New RODI Unit placement
- Thread starter pdiehm
- Start date
there's not much pressure in that. only 1/4" copper tubing.
on the off chance this doesn't work, how would I do that?
well...opened up the ball valve, a little bit and it didn't blow apart! But like an idiot, I forgot to attach the waste line.
I closed the ball valve, figure I'll give that a good 24 hours before I try to open it more than just a crack, though I wonder what my psi is with it cracked. the PSI in the garage opened full bore was 80...i'm almost afraid to open it fully...afraid it'll blow apart. goes from horizontal of about 8" to a 90 down, then a 3" piece and my hose connector to an adaptor to 1/4" tubing.
I closed the ball valve, figure I'll give that a good 24 hours before I try to open it more than just a crack, though I wonder what my psi is with it cracked. the PSI in the garage opened full bore was 80...i'm almost afraid to open it fully...afraid it'll blow apart. goes from horizontal of about 8" to a 90 down, then a 3" piece and my hose connector to an adaptor to 1/4" tubing.
sleepydoc
Team RC
:facepalm: Doh! We've all been there!
How do you have it hooked up? (you did use CPVC fittings and CPVC cement, right?) What I would have done is put a tee in the cold water supply to the water heater, then a valve with a NPT fitting into which you can screw a push connect fitting like this one.
It should be able to handle the pressure - I have mine hooked directly to the water supply with no problems and the tubing is rated to 230 PSI at room temperature. Remember, if there is no flow in the system, the pressure will equalize, so even if you only have the valve 'cracked just a bit,' anything downstream from that will still see your full water supply pressure.
As for the pump, do you just have a pump to pump water up to your ATO reservoir? It might be a bit slower with the higher head pressure, but should be fine. You don't need it gushing in, just enough to fill so you don't have to haul buckets!
How do you have it hooked up? (you did use CPVC fittings and CPVC cement, right?) What I would have done is put a tee in the cold water supply to the water heater, then a valve with a NPT fitting into which you can screw a push connect fitting like this one.
It should be able to handle the pressure - I have mine hooked directly to the water supply with no problems and the tubing is rated to 230 PSI at room temperature. Remember, if there is no flow in the system, the pressure will equalize, so even if you only have the valve 'cracked just a bit,' anything downstream from that will still see your full water supply pressure.
As for the pump, do you just have a pump to pump water up to your ATO reservoir? It might be a bit slower with the higher head pressure, but should be fine. You don't need it gushing in, just enough to fill so you don't have to haul buckets!
woodnaquanut
Active member
Pressure is not dependent on pipe size. Pressure + pipe size control flow. Flow won't be high any RO/DI. 75 gpd is real low flow.
Since you have it connected already, leave it. But for others reading this, it might be easier to tap into the 1/4" line. All depends on what you have available.
woodnaquanut
Active member
Is there anywhere else the waste could go besides the drain? Somewhere useful like the garden, a pond, etc. Shame to waste that perfectly good water.
Afraid not. I originally had it running outside but my waste line was frozen solid today when I pulled it up. I could run it to the sump but if the pump fails there is a big flood in the basement. I would...hmm...I may have an idea
woodnaquanut
Active member
I'm on the west coast. We get some frost but it never gets cold enuf to worry about drain lines freezing! Any long run in your area might be subject to freeze so I'll give you a pass on waste water usage!
well, had to run it into the sink. couldn't get a drill near the top of the sump pipe.
First attempt...drill went straight through the other side. To Lowe's and $1.29 later, got the replacement. Cut to length. Drilled, but this time put the broom handle in there so I couldn't go through.
Positioned it how I like, and hopefully it doesn't make as much noise as I am anticipating that it doesn't.
First attempt...drill went straight through the other side. To Lowe's and $1.29 later, got the replacement. Cut to length. Drilled, but this time put the broom handle in there so I couldn't go through.
Positioned it how I like, and hopefully it doesn't make as much noise as I am anticipating that it doesn't.
woodnaquanut
Active member
This is pretty much standard for DIY projects. Only one trip to the store is :thumbsup:
Yeah, haven't tested it out yet. this afternoon I will. Wanna secure the waste tubing to the floor studs.
Plugged everything in. Opened the valve and then opened the RODI valve...making water at 50-53 psi.
Water also is not brutally cold either. Making bucket of RODI for my QT tank top off. Just tossed a thermometer in the bucket.
So far so good.
New drain is working just fine. Water temp is 62
Water also is not brutally cold either. Making bucket of RODI for my QT tank top off. Just tossed a thermometer in the bucket.
So far so good.
New drain is working just fine. Water temp is 62
Gorgok
New member
I was going to ask if its making more waste or just running slower, but then i googled reverse osmosis temperature and got this:
"The volumes listed for the reverse osmosis product water are based on a feed water temperature of 25°C (77°F). For every 1°C below 25°C (77°F), the quantity of product water is reduced by 3%. Additionally, if the feed water temperature goes beyond 35°C (95°F), the RO membrane may be damaged."
54F puts you at roughly 12C, so you are 13C below the specs, or 39% less product water is being made. Which mathematically checks out with your timing as well... (or well 40% checks out exactly to your numbers).
Math as done by google:
1/(9*60+30)*(1-.40)*(15*60+50) = 1
With units to explain:
1 gallon / (9 minutes * 60 seconds/minute + 30 seconds) * (1 - 40%) = actual product rate
Actual product rate * (15 minutes * 60 seconds/minute + 50 seconds) = 1 gallon
Alternately google math with units:
1 gallon / (9 minutes * 60 seconds/minute + 30 seconds) * (1 - 40%) * (15 minutes * 60 seconds/minute + 50 seconds) to gallon
"The volumes listed for the reverse osmosis product water are based on a feed water temperature of 25°C (77°F). For every 1°C below 25°C (77°F), the quantity of product water is reduced by 3%. Additionally, if the feed water temperature goes beyond 35°C (95°F), the RO membrane may be damaged."
54F puts you at roughly 12C, so you are 13C below the specs, or 39% less product water is being made. Which mathematically checks out with your timing as well... (or well 40% checks out exactly to your numbers).
Math as done by google:
1/(9*60+30)*(1-.40)*(15*60+50) = 1
With units to explain:
1 gallon / (9 minutes * 60 seconds/minute + 30 seconds) * (1 - 40%) = actual product rate
Actual product rate * (15 minutes * 60 seconds/minute + 50 seconds) = 1 gallon
Alternately google math with units:
1 gallon / (9 minutes * 60 seconds/minute + 30 seconds) * (1 - 40%) * (15 minutes * 60 seconds/minute + 50 seconds) to gallon
