By more than one I mean that I did the first application - had to do it in about 4 segments down the length of the board so the cement wouldn't dry by the time I got to adding the gravel.
Put it on real thick and spread it evenly - a little thicker at the ends of the board - and put more gravel than necessary on the cement. I applied pressure to the gravel and let it set for about 10 minutes. Then I continued another section in the same manner until the board was done. I let it dry for about 1/2 hour and then tilted the board up to let all the unfixed gravel slide off the other end.
This left me with mostly bare lines where the sections ended and began. This is mostly because you can't really apply cement up to the point of the last gravel application right away - the gravel wants to stick to the cement dauber.
Anyway, the next day, I applied gobs of cement to the areas that were bare. This is kind of messy, as some gravel will still want to stick to the dauber. It tales patience and a few runs, but eventually, persistence pays off and you should be able to fill most of the gaps and holes. You can apply it right over the gravel around holes and gaps, but you almost have to let the cement drip onto the gravel or some will stick to the brush. When you press the gravel into the cement, you can spread it around a little (inches) to cover more area than what you dribbled on (I hope that makes sense).
As I said earlier, it's real hard to completely eliminate small visible areas of the board. If I would've spent more time, maybe I could have gotten it closer to perfection, but I had my fill of cement fumes by then!
Be as gentle as possible when moving the board around. It will help keep gravel from dislodging, as it's definitely not adhesive to the point of taking much abuse. It can handle a Tunze Stream on it, though!
