New tank 125 (note: this may progress slowly)

Finally got the rock cure going. These are some rocks I got from someone who had already taken their tank down a while back - easily more than a year ago. Finally getting around to curing them. So I cleaned out the 29g and put freshwater in to blast any loose detritus off for about a week. I put some baking soda in there to raise the pH to prevent any potential calcium loss due to low pH. Drained, pulled out everything. Rinsed the tank, blasted the rocks with a hose of freshwater. Filled it back up with salt water 1.017 added the prizm skimmer and started the cure.

Can't find my camera to take pics. We moved a bunch of furniture around to clean the carpets and I can't find anything right now.
 
After another week more than half of about 15 stars were found inside the megaflow volume. I fear as some have metioned stars may be reproducing in my pipes. As long as they don't eat my zoas or coralline, I don't see how they can survive inside the pipes.
 
As promised some pics:

The 29gal Rock Cure
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An older pic of the 29gal when it was haven for purple mushrooms.
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I just noticed the algae clip and how small the yellow tail hippo tang was. She's now easily 7-8" long!

not so great but in the lower right you can see how much bigger the hippo tang is now.
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Future 60gal sump - upgrade skimmer collection cup also shown.
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Stand design progress. Sorry no complete pipe runs but everything lines up. The four blue pipe tee's fee: recirc (as needed), skimmer, options (CaRx, PO4, Etc), Fuge then off to chiller and then tank. I'm thinking since the Chiller has 1/2" conns I'll prb tee off again and just go over the top on the other side of the overflow. Reeflo Dart is the return pump.

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Nice work!

I haven't paid much attention to the board lately. It looks like you have been busy.
 
Thanks! Lots of new people keep coming to the last two meetings. You should come. Frag Swap in sac in two weeks! Interested?

Thanks for checking in here.
 
Very Happy as I got a great deal on a T5 light.

72" Current Nova Extreme T5 12x 36" bulbs, individual reflectors, 6x 460nm Actinics and 6x 10K white. Two power cords, one for four actinics, one for the other eight lights. Comes in an nice sleek enclosure with four fans. Two at the end come on with the actinics (switch 1) and two more in the vicinity of the ballasts come on with the others (switch 2). There are other vents throughout to spread the air cooling. Also comes with legs to mount above the tank.

Color with the 10k and actinic bulbs looks very much like the way my old 50g on PC's looked. Excited to begin changing out color spectrums as bulbs age. Already these are brighter than my brand new 175W MH's. Certainly they provide better coverage across the tank than the three MH's and are coming in at more than 200W less than the MH's. Plus the actinic first on is much brighter as well.

One thing that is different is this system sits about 3-4 inches above my tank with the lights about an inch above that. This is letting lots of light outside the tank. My old system was just sitting on two 1x¾" planks on top of the upper frame rail of the tank. But the lights were recessed nearly 4-6 inches above the bottom of the unit. Thus very little extra light from that hood made it outside of the tank. Oh well, all the more encouragement to finish the next stand with a canopy.


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FTS - with new light

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New Light stands
 
Mostly I post on CRC's site. So I'll catch up here:

Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 4:40 pm Post subject:

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Ok so - I think I'll start putting one rock in a week or two going forward. With the frags I have now and the swap in just over a week... I need some more rocks to make high spots for some of these SPS and other high light loving corals.


Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:52 pm Post subject:

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moved total of four softball - if you could call them that - sized reef rocks from the 29g cure bath to the main display now - two at a time and a little over a week or so apart. Having to move some corals down as tips are bleaching - I am assuming from the new light intensity

But I'd hate to lose the corals. Finally getting around to moving my RO/DI system from the back porch under the eves (but wife booted me off there) to the side of the house but got rained on - to the garage. I still have a 50 gal makeup drum out there. The hose leading to the garage has a crack (1/4") and is spraying water while feeding the RO/DI unit - I think is leaking about as much as the RO wastes. I need to swap that hose for the one in the back or get a new one. Got some new DI resin so I plan after making this water change water and the stock water for the next change I'll replace all my RO/DI filters.

Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:33 am Post subject:

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On another note, I stopped my unreliable gravity drip system kalk addition a few years ago after too many issues. While I did enjoy the benefits of kalk, the issues like varying drip rates as the level changes, accumulation of precipitated CaCO3 on the tip dripper, Precipitation of CaCO3 on the fluid surface due to interaction with CO2 in the air, one more thing having to mix and set, issues of it suddenly not working to the occasional set and forget for a few hours and found nearly the entire volume dripped in and pH now at 9.4~~~!!!!

However, again after watching Mr.SaltwaterTV and his video about Kalk being King (see under Tank Chemistry – Kalkwasser)…, I have to agree. Even though I run a Ca Rx, I think I would like to see more stable pH from the hydroxides and take advantage of the extra Ca as well. So following his guidance, I opted to mix some Kalk in a bucket and then once mixed, dumped that into my ATO bucket which needs to be refilled every 2-3 days. At that rate it should stay in saturated, and I only pour in the clear stuff. Since I also just did a water change which brought my sump level up just beyond normal, it is going to take until today to see how much the one tsp of kalk per my 4 gallons does for my 125g tank. I suspect I'll be up to 3-4 tsp of kalk per bucket fill before Thanksgiving.

Also going forward, I’ve decided two 18-20 gallon every two weeks to twice a month 24-26 a year of water changes is better than what I’m doing now: monthly at best. I’m hoping due to the increase regularity it will be easier to keep track of when it is really time to change.

After testing my tank water last night I have come to the conclusion that the relatively small amount of MgCl I put in the Ca Rx is now depleted. Or my test kits being a few months beyond expiration are off. Other than that parameters are good.

Now that the RO/DI is in the garage, I’m considering expanding into a whole Fresh/Salt mixing station with dedicated pump, hard piping and a cam-lock port to connect for water changes and mixing on/off times controlled with X10.

Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:46 am Post subject:

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I forgot to add I've move six rocks total now into the main display and so far things are going well. NO3 (Nitrates) are at 5 after the water change - thus motivation to do more changes. This represents about half of the remaining rocks.
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