New tank 125 (note: this may progress slowly)

Ok sorry no pics. Moved the not used 125 tank down. took all the screws out of the stand. Other than the strongbacks and screws, the stand wasn't really assembled that well. *eek*

So I also finished notching out 4x4's with a circular saw and a chisel for the 2x4 side beams to nestle in for a stronger build. I visited Meeks to get some kiln dried 2x4's (minimized warping) to find they stopped carrying them. Bummer.
 
I usually use white wood. It is plenty strong, nice and straight, lightweight and easy to work with.
 
white wood... do you mean pine or fir?

Big Box stores only sell pine and I've searched time and time for decent ones that aren't bowed, twisted, or otherwise warped.

Thanks for stopping by ;)
 
I'm always watching. :D

White wood 2x4s. I think it is white pine. when shopping for straight 2x4s, always hold them up and look down their length. If you can't find good ones, request they bring down another bundle for you to go through. Usually what happens is everyone does what I'm describing, so you end up approaching a pile that has 20+ twisted ones on top, as the treasure is underneath. New bundles brought over by forklift tend to have plenty of good ones, with a few bad ones interspersed.
 
Thanks! As it turned out I found an old Xmas gift card for Big Box store and headed out in the rain last night and found...

low and behold...

2x4 x 8' Kiln-dried straight wood!!! And cheaper than the previous place had it!

Since it was raining and near 9pm when I got all the boards marked... I decided to not turn on the screaming power tools to cut the wood last night.
 
Stand is coming along nicely. Bought a router table for my Harbor Freight Router... Only it is too big to fit into the table opening I got. Making the table bigger would have been bad since the mounting plate wouldn't fit. So after reviewing lots of routers I made an impulse decision to buy a craftsman router $119. Turns out online the local store said they had one but after searching for nearly 30 min turns out they didn't so I purused the Craftsman club paper and found the next one down was only $90 and next week will be on sale for $70. So I picked that one up and it's very similar to the Porter-Cable routers going for $150 more. So I'm looking to make some of my own trim and panel doors.

.... So much for making this a quick and simple stand. But I hope to have it completed by Thanksgiving. Stained and coated and dry.

I love DIY costs. Sure I'll end up relatively saving lots of money but if you add in all the trips to the stores and add in tool costs... I wonder. But this way I get more tools, the experience, and fun!!! Now I have a plunge router and a dedicated table router.

Also the two smaller CL tanks were sold a while back and just yesterday I sold the old 125 in the original pics. Now I can't complain about not having enough room. Maybe while I'm staining and sealing the doors to the stand I can say I don't have enough room. :D
 
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YEAH! Had a tank viewing after our local meeting at my house and showed off my stand and got complements!!! Thanks guys!

So stand is almost done. Wood work is 95% complete. I've decided to cut a hole again in this *temporary* stand for the chiller exhaust especially since I've made this one effectively sealed to the wall. So I'll add some screen and rounded over trim to finish the square hole. I hope to paste the nail holes, finish sanding and removing all left over glue to begin preconditioning and staining this weekend. My stain test results have shown two coats for the pine and fir and only on on the Lauan plys.

The doors turned out pretty cool but since I went with doug fir vs. oak (cost) the wood wasn't quite wide enough for my doormaking router bits. So I decided to router them out myself and just inset the door panels with glue.

After all the stain and urethane is done, dry, and mostly degassed, I get to hang the doors, put in the linoleum bathtub, and prep for some additional mountings: ACII, food and additive shelves, towel hooks, etc...
 
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Picture update time!!!
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Stand

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Stud and Post notched detail

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Trim detail

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Doors... not too bad ;)
 
From Nov 23:

Well, Family just left and I finished staining the last panel. However the trim around the cutout for the chiller exhaust was apparently made of foam and only had a thin layer of plastic made to appear like wood that didn't take any bit of stain. At least I was aware of this potential issue before so I didn't actually glue on in just yet and happy I didn't .

So as soon as that panel dries I'll apply a layer of eruathane coating. I'm thinking 3 layers on the sides, 4 on the doors, and 5 on top and top edge trim. I hope to have that done by the end of next weekend as I'll have time off for T-day and my daughter is out of school Wednesday and Friday as well. After a week or so of it venting off the *toxic* VOC's my wife and I are worried about, I'll be finishing the inside touches to get it going. So I'm thinking I'll be ready to swap it out after the first week to mid December. :D

Just in time to find a new home for all the frags I'll be bringing home from Dec 6.

I plan to keep my 29 gal up for a temporary QT tank as well as sell off some of the corals I don't want in my new tank.

Soon I'll have for sale the 4' long 50 gal with oak trim, a tall oak stand, and an DIY oak canopy with 4x65W PC lighting on two power switches and a set of fans that power up with the front set of lights. I can also throw in the S.O.S. overflow but you'll have to have your own sump as I'm going to use this one until I build my own later. If you've been by to see my main tank - this is it.
 
OK stand is complete!!! YAY... last lesson learned: when making doors for your stand and you measure your openings compared to the remaining side area, include at least 3/4" for each hinge side. This is something where for me, 20/20 hindsight works best. I had to ram the hinges under the edge trim and still the doors slightly nock together when closed. No biggie... the stand still looks pretty good and is really functional. I'm actually working on my own private list of lessons learned here for when I make further wood projects.

Funny thing while taking a break to figure out what to do with the doors, I decided it was time to put in the 4' long power strip on the underside of the top plywood. So I climbed in and on my back put up one side. While pivoting around, bringing over my drill and driver and looking for screws, all while holding up the unattached end, I realize it is going to be a pain to put this end's screws so close to the wall. Nontheless, I finished it.
Then I figured it was time to put the cutout of linoleum on the bottom. So I flipped the stand on its top and laughed as I saw the pwr strip sitting there now very easily accessable and clearly gravity would now hold it in place without the screws. Ha Ha.

I nailed down the lineolum to the bottom frame about every 2-3 Inches with the last 3-5mm angled over to provide additional contact area. I also eurathaned the bottom 2x4's and posts so I will move the stand onto carpet and let the carpet push up the linoleum naturally (I also left enough slack for this to happen). I then plan to silicone the edges to make an attempt at a bathtub effect around the inside edges of the stand should (read: when) water end up here to activate the leak alarm.

I also added some of the 3M plastic hooks to the doors and an inside post to hang towels.

I've moved on to preping the remaining plumbing issues to finality with the exception of actual installation once the stand/tank are in place. So I'm threading teflon tape on all threads, using large channel-lock plyers to crank the fittings down. And I'm in search of some 3/4" and 1" Flexible PVC as I think that will be the ticket to getting this thing to work right with the least amount of fittings and overall cost.

Also, when I ordered the glass for the lids they came out as I requested but in reality an inch too long. So I got out my scoring tool and attempted to snap off the six 1" pieces. Only one came out perfect. Three others needed additional work, and two were a total loss. Also the glass lid hinge material seems to be the correct size for 1/8" thick glass but simply doesn't hold the glass in its grip. I wonder if exposure to light/heat will cause these to shrink and actually hold the glass?

So I'm on my way to making my goal of tank swap a reality!!! :D
 
Photo Time.
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Front

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Right side w/ Chiller exhaust port visible

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Right side doors open and floor visible


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Top (with plumbing stuff)


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Return and supply plumbing connections

Planning on swap tanks Fri/Sat 12/12-12/13.
 
Went out to OSH on Sunday to get some Egg crate and suction hooks and made a frag tray to hold some of the frags pending the new tank!!! :D

Got much of the plumbing taped and torqued and venting now in the garage. Got the tubing a straight as I can get it by simple means. I plan to soak the flex PVC in the tub with hot water before I need to install it so I can get some flexibility out of it.

Making RO/DI water to begin mixing salt for the 125g+ needed for this swap. And I'm making my final process list to swap these tanks out.

Getting excited to make this happen.... FINALLY!
 
Even when you don't know we are...we are....even if you think we aren't....we are......even when you are sleeping...well, Melev is....


Just kidding. Hey Melev did you ever get silver to quit World of Warcraft? :)
 
He's told me he's not played in a long time, now that he's getting married, buying a house, etc...

Basically he found a real life version of the same stupid game. :lol:
 
Thanks Twisted and melev!!!! I can tell by the hits there are some lurkers out there. Selfishly I've decided to use this as a personal journal of my journey so even if some of the details are mundane... I might find some value there. :D
 
OK got the overflow piping installed with bulkheads and water tested. First time I ended up putting the rubber gasket on the outside and had leaks. Swapped the gasket to the INSIDE and hey they work wonderfully.

Also I put in the bulkheads and then realized I needed to install the tank side piping as it wouldn't be possible to do so effectivley once inside the overflow. Duh. I thought about this before but never wrote it down in my procedures. I swear it's times like this that I tend to become most frustrated bymy actions. Like I knew better... :D

So after three days the overflows are still holding water. I've made about 33+33+55+15g of water with a few containers needing mixing which will happen tonight.

I plan to pump the mixed water into the tank and then put the heaters in to heat the water up the rest of the way. There's no way I'm bringing inside some of the outside containers.

I've heard paint doesn't stick to PVC so I tried using my dremel and sanding round to rough up the two small 3/4" PVC fittings and spray painted it. We'll see if it sticks this way. They are attaching to the 3/4" PVC pipe coming out of the Overflow to the Loc-Line.

Since I'm temp. using a small Rio Hyperflow20 return pump I'm only going to send the tank supply to the right side and cap off the left.

We have a meeting tonight so on top of my prep and cleaning for the swap tonight/tomorrow... I've got a few other things to do too. So it goes.
 
If you use Krylon Fusion spray paint from Walmart (Home Depot supposedly has it), it will stick to PVC. It is made for plastics.
 
Yeah, I bought some Krylon Fusion yellow paint for my model rocket and I loved how it came out vs. some of the cheaper paints I've used. And that wasn't even on the plastic part but the balsa and paper body tube part. Very nice!

Hmm. I think I might hit up the store. Plus I determined I need one more 3/4" slip/MaleNPT fitting to connect the chiller to my tank supply. Funny thing about DIY... it's always just one more trip to the hardware store. I just wonder if I'll have to make any trips tomorrow. :D

Thanks Melev!
 
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