New tank planning phases 56g column tank - lots of ??s, really want this to go well!

N

Newreeflady

New member
Stats:
Tank: 30 x 18 x 24h
Lighting available: 250w pfo hqi halide, and 4 x 24" T5s
Sump: 20g high
Skimmer: Euroreef RS80
Return: Eheim 1262
Carbon reactor: 2littlefishes
Calcium: kalk + b-ionic
Chiller: JBJ arctica 1/10 hp
Topoff: JBJ ato

The above stuff I already own:)

FLOW:
In addition to the return pump, I have another Eheim 1262, I have an OM Squirt (2 or 4 way, I have both barrels) and I have a modded maxijet. What would you do with this? I'm not really in the mood to drill the tank- I can easily do an over-the-top CL, but I see a lot of people aren't going CL route anymore, but instead doing these propeller pumps. Thing is, I'd like to have some BTAs, so not sure that's OK. Thoughts?

LIGHTING:
I have a center brace (ugh!) I'm not super comfortable with removing it, either. I could dremmel it thinner, though- thoughts?

I considered doing the 250w halide on one side, and then running the 24 inch T5s starting on the opposite side. I think I'll still have a shadow, though.

So, should I thin the brace? Should I mount the halide center or one side? It wouldn't be evenly lit, but maybe that would make it interesting? I could also cant it a bit so that it lights toward the opposite side- maybe this would help with the shadow?

SUMP:
Since it's only a 20g high, and my skimmer footprint is 9x9 and return footprint something like 5x8, I am going to forego chaeto. But, it'd be great to have a place to store some rock rubble so I might do a section for this after the skimmer chamber and over under traps. Sound OK?

CHILLER: Is this worth running? I don't think it's meant to handle more than 55g, and so I'll be at the max-ish. Maybe I should go with fans in the sump area and just sell the chiller... thoughts?

Currently I'm building a stand and canopy, and will soon start on the sump. I'm so excited!

Thanks!:wavehand:
 
sounds like an exciting project with lots of possibilities.

If you have fans on the lighting you can probably avoid use of the chiller.
Are you going to run a Radium on the 250w hqi ballast?
 
Gary Majchrzak said:
sounds like an exciting project with lots of possibilities.

If you have fans on the lighting you can probably avoid use of the chiller.
Are you going to run a Radium on the 250w hqi ballast?
Click to expand...

Well, I already have an Ushio 12k so I'll probably run that until its time is up (it's only a couple of months old.) I used to have a Radium 400 se but it was a bit blue for my taste. How is it on the hqi?

I can definitely install fans. What is the minimum size recommended? Are the 4-5" fans OK? Is there a good plan to get the best circulation out of them? I mean, put them in a particular pattern or something?

thanks!
Angela
 
my idea on the center brace is don't mess with it. but i am also overly cautious.
Click to expand...

I tend to share your opinion here. If the mfg thought it was needed, well, maybe they are.

i'd need a real good reason to run mh/t5 +a chiller. if i was in your position ,i'd check out a cube tank.
Click to expand...

Not sure I follow your logic with the cube being a better move. Can you explain?

I've historically only needed the chiller mid-day in the heat of the summer when not running a/c. Having the t5 actually saves quite a bit because then the halide can be used way way less. It isn't necessary to run all 4 t5s while the mh is running, perhaps.
 
a cube or corner tank would work great w/your lights as is. the depth of 50-75 gallon tanks is more appealing imo. you could grow anything you want (clams,nem,etc)
 
Angela, when you get to the fan portion of this, pm me. I believe i may have at least one leftover after the 120g hood build is complete.
 
Block, already had a corner- really prefer the flat glass for viewing. I really like the proportions of this tank, actually (which is why I picked it up.) I can't see how it'd cost me any less to run lights on a cube than a column. I do like the cubes as well, though. At this point the setup is certainly far from set, but the tank is pretty set (I already started building a stand, and have plans for the canopy as well.

Kat, thanks, I'll keep it in mind. Hopefully I'll be working on it in the next couple of weeks- wanna finish up the stand first.

thx all!:)
Angela
 
Yeah, I'm really trying to do more thinking and take less action prior to. :)

What about a 2 species tank- first settle in an S. Gigantea, then add clams to the rockwork that isn't taken. I could set up the tank with just half rock, and the other half open sand. And, I could do a dsb (they need this, right?) I know there is the old tank syndrome thing to think of, though, with the dsb. I will be moving in 3 years or so, though, and that's for certain.

What do you guys think?

Thx,
-A
 
gigantea carpet anemones are one of the most challenging reef animals to attempt....
perhaps you should decide on something else.

In any event gigantea do not require a DSB.
 
Gary Majchrzak said:
gigantea carpet anemones are one of the most challenging reef animals to attempt....
perhaps you should decide on something else.

In any event gigantea do not require a DSB.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm seeing that. I was really hoping to keep one of the ocellaris' natural hosts if possible. All of them seem to be "the most difficult" *sigh*. I suppose I could just do BTAs, I'm considering all options. I really like the carpets, though. Do you think success with Merten's is any better?

Thx,
Angela
 
I don't think you realize how large Merten's anemone gets...... !

RBTA with black ocellaris is a stunning and easy combo.
If you're lucky you might get onyx percs to take to a RBTA... or another good anemone choice would be a purple Macrodactyla doreensis.
 
Well, I already have ocellaris, so not going to have percs. Percs are awesome, but I am attached to my fish.

They used to have an RBTA (sold it) and it was pretty for sure. Is doreensis a good bet for the ocellaris? I guess maybe I should stick to the rbta since they did take to it very well. I tried a Haddoni, but they never went in so I sold it after a year (and a few lost fish;))
 
my ocellaris took to doreensis almost immediately.

The good thing about purple doreensis is the fact that they usually go for less cash than RBTA's and they stay in the sandbed (no DSB required).
 
That sounds cool, and they com in purple! What depth sand would you recommend for one? Does it prefer a large open space, or edging up to a rock?

I think I'll stick with the CL, I'm just too nervous about a powerhead/ propeller in the tank with an anemone I think. Thanks for the ideas, feel free to throw more up. I am in need of a good reef mentor or two. (nice that the URS forum is so active, btw!)

-A
 
Newreeflady said:
What depth sand would you recommend for one? Does it prefer a large open space, or edging up to a rock?
Click to expand...

1" - 2" sandbed, some open space and a large rock to snuggle up to makes for a good M. doreensis home.
This species doesn't like extreme water motion or extremely bright light IME.
You'll have to keep your eye out for a purple one but it will be worth the wait IMO.
 
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