New to the Nano reef

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I was thinking of leaving the one heater out in front of the chambers and adding a second one in the chamber. then I can use it for water changes and dripping new additions... plus always good to have a backup in case one stops working
 
Backups are good...but consider this...

The glass surrounding heaters is CONSIDERABLY thinner than the glass of your tank...what would happen to your heater if a rock were to topple on it...well, naturally it would break...now, you have an exposed electrical element in your tank water and your heater decides to cut on...not a pretty thought...

Long story short, just put the heater in one of the rear chambers...

Edit - Remember, it has already happend NUMEROUS times before to people and there are several threads showing the bad results.
 
Good point, with the way i have scaped i dont think any rock can topple on it. but certainly if I add more rock I can defnitly see the problem... So do you think sticking the heater in the chamber with the pump would be a good idea?
 
Keep it out of the return pump chamber...this is the chamber where the evaporation is going to occur...the water level will vary and could drop below the "water line" on the heater...

Put it in the 2nd chamber with the macro algae...or, if you are going to use media in that chamber, put it in the 1st chamber...just keep it out of the 3rd chamber...
 
Just use the suction cup holder and attach it to the wall...it will be fine heat wise that close to the plastic...if you don't have a bracket for it, they sell them for a buck or two at most pet places like PetSmart, PetCo, online stores, etc...
 
Another question guys! I put some rubble LR from my 55g in the filter chamber and in the display of the nano. I see a little bubble algae and hair algae on it. In my large tank w/ basic lighting it was mild but now that i have the PC lights I am sure that stuff will take off< what would be good to eat these algaes?
 
Emerald Crabs eat bubble algae...problem is if this is part of the cycle and goes away you will need to have something else for the crab to eat...

Waiting to see other responses to this as well for my own purposes, because my cycling 10g nano is really full of green grass/hair-like algae and getting a fair amount of bubble algae as well...really fighting the urge to add in cleaners right now because I still have detectable amounts of ammonia (which are up one day down the next)...

Anyone else's opinions?
 
Hermits (My Baha hermits anyway) will eat hair algae and mow through detrius. The only time I have ever had HA was when I got a big coral in from an online vendor. There was a nice sized clump of it on there (note the was :) )

Bubble algae is a pain. Some emerald crabs will eat the bubble algae but there are some species that will not eat it. Have to make sure you get the correct species. Also peopl have had some problems with emerald crabs destroying zoa's and bothering fish. They can be monsters I guess. I'd personally never put on in there.

I'd setup a bucket with salt water and put the rock in there and try to pop the bubble algae balls off w/o breaking them. If you break them they will reproduce even faster (which is why doing this in a bucket makes sense).

When you do your first water change you can use the waste saltwater from that to try this. No need to make a fresh batch for this.

Nip it in the bud.
 
Colin - what about when the bubble algae is just too much to "pop" off...if you remove water for a water change, scrub the rock and then put it back in the tank will the bubble algae still reproduce quicker? (See even I have questions at times!! ;) )
 
Hmm, breaking the bubbles is what spreads the bubble algae, maybe if you did scrub the rock in 1 bucket and dipped it in another bucket before putting it back in the tank it would help (not sure though, see I even have questions :) ).

If you have bubble algae you can see then you have some down in the cracks you can't see (or get to).

I hated bubble algae so much I took out half of my affected liverock and bleached it to kill it off 100%. It was a time consuming process (a week total to bleach and dechlorify the liverock before it went back into the system). That is why if you see my pics I have some dark LR and some lighter LR.
Wouldn't suggest bleaching the liverock unless it gets out of hand though, granted there is ZERO risk of it contaminating the tank if done correctly.

I have seen a couple bubbles pop up on a blasto welsi rock but I will try to treat that outside of the tank this weekend.
 
Ok, so answer me this...I thought diatom bloom was the only algae to show up during cycle...are the hair/green grass/bubble algae's also normal during cycle and will go away or should I throw in some chaeto and cleaning crew? (yes, even the informed need answers sometimes! :lol: )
 
Diatoms are a part of the tank maturity. Everyone has them.

Hair algae and bubble algae are hitchhikers on your live rock (They just don't appear for no reason like diatoms).
Chaeto (or similar chemical media) will help take away nutrients that it is using to grow, a cleanup crew (hermits and cernith snails) will handle the rest.
 
So, you would suggest then go ahead and get the chaeto and a clean up crew even though my parameters are still showing ammonia (check my thread please Click Here.) I have a local reefer friend that lives close to where I work...he has offered me all the free chaeto I can shove in my DIY HOB refugium and he said it is all packed with brittle stars and pods...I figure the pods won't last with ammonia in the tank, but hopefully the chaeto can pull out the nutrients that are feeding the other algaes...
 
I got some chaeto right after I got some water in the tank, the mini-stars survived, I have never had much of a pod population even after adding a bottle of tiger pods though I don't dose as much phyto as I probably should.

I'd get the chaeto now, you can always get a bottle of tiger pods or something else to repopulate them.
 
ok so I have a question about water testing... When you are holding the tube up and matching the colors on the card do you hold the tube flush against the white of the card or just in front of the white on the card to give a solid white background. I have found that holding the tube flush against the card gives a different reading then simply holding the tube in front of the white of the card...Hope this makes sense?
 
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