Newb here trying to do it right the 1st time.

[morpheas]

Also on what CStrickland said earlier "Putting drains or returns on the floor of the tank is a flood risk" I agree with as well. I much prefer the drilling of the tank to be on the side a few inches from the top and use an external overflow box like the sexy ones from synergy reef rather than internal box with drilling at the bottom of the tank. Yes, you have a bulkhead that will hold water and yes you also have the overflow box that will hold as well but if complete disaster strikes (i.e. bulkheads leaking and overflow box gluing on the floor as well leaks) then you have the hole tank coming down on you. This is just a personal preference though.

Now I know you have already bought the tank and this is what you have, I just mention it as a "this is what I would do if I would do this again" kinda thing. Since we're at it, you alluded to the fact that the tank is used, am I correct? If so, I would also do a good water test to make sure it doesn't need resealing or anything.

Sorry for all the stuff I'm bringing up, just brainstorming...

 

[Mrramsey]

Maybe this will help -

And some additional info can be found here - http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

Also just notice in the pic of your tank... that light fixture does not look to be a reefbreeders 48? Do you have the specs on it? it may not be capable for corals.

 

[MadModder]

That sketch doesn't look anything like a herbie to me.

You're right, I just notice I loaded the wrong picture. It was how we were going to initially do it. I'll post up another pic in a bit.

Morpheas, I dont understand how the whole tank will drain. The black wall thing separating the internal over flows from the display only allow the top inch or so of water from the display into the overflow.

Yes the tank is used, we bought it as it was being used, drained it, brought it home, cleaned it then did a leak test. Its good to go.

No need to apologize, as I said before, this is exactly why I made this thread.

Maybe this will help -

And some additional info can be found here - http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

Also just notice in the pic of your tank... that light fixture does not look to be a reefbreeders 48? Do you have the specs on it? it may not be capable for corals.

I actually already have that link up. Hadn't read through all of it yet but getting there.

Also, the light in the pic is a Marineland LED and you're right about it no being capable for corlas. It is not. The reefer breeders 48L is not in the picture.

 

[MadModder]

http://imgur.com/Gb58uJM

Thats the easy schematic. The other is more of a blue print.

There will be ball valves on the main drain and between the pump and Y fitting.

The return pipes are going to be 1", except for the bulk head fitting which 1.5".

The drain pipes will be 2", except for the bulk head fittings which will be 1.5".

 

[WaReefer458]

If you guys plan on using a magnet cleaner for the glass I'd shy away from the black sand. It's slightly magnetic and will scratch ur glass by getting stuck to the magnet cleaner.

 

[MadModder]

Wife says she heard that both ways. Some say they've had the problem with black being magnetic and other say they havent had that problem.

I guess we'll see.
Thanks though.

 

[morpheas]

Morpheas, I dont understand how the whole tank will drain. The black wall thing separating the internal over flows from the display only allow the top inch or so of water from the display into the overflow.

Yes the tank is used, we bought it as it was being used, drained it, brought it home, cleaned it then did a leak test. Its good to go.

It is my irrational fear that the sealant on the bottom of the overflow box will fail and a bulkhead as well. It's way out there I know but that's just a personal preference.

It looks from my inexperienced eyes that you have your bases covered mate!

 

[MadModder]

Oh, I see. Im sure its happened before.

If the bases are covered, now im concered about flow. Will there be enough circulation throughout the display tank?

 

[CStrickland]

Your DT circulation isn't from the sump return, it's from powerheads that you place around the tank. It really hard to predict how the flow will come out because of the way diff powerheads spread or point their flow, and the way it bounces off the rocks and glass is unpredictable. You are shooting for good surface agitation for gas exchange, sufficient upwelling to refresh the water down at the bottom of the tank, no dead spots for detritus to collect, but no sandstorm. I find 40x the DT volume for in tank circulation, and 5--7x DT volume for sump flow though to be a good starting point.

So in my 120 I've got four 800 gph and four 520 gph powerheads (5,200 gph), and 800gph return after headloss and pipe friction. My DT circulation is a little high because I like to tuck the powerheads behind the rocks for aesthetics, so I lose some of their force compared to an unobstructed placement.

 

[CStrickland]

Also, regarding your first post, if this isn't really your thing why not have your wife use the account? She has a steep learning curve ahead of her, and playing the telephone game is only going to make it harder. It's not unrealistic to expect that she will have at least one question a week for the first year. I can't imagine trying to get my husband to properly explain my issues and then relay their solutions from a forum. He's a great tank sitter but when it comes to the whys and how's, he'd get bored after a week.

 

[Mrramsey]

your dt circulation isn't from the sump return, it's from powerheads that you place around the tank. It really hard to predict how the flow will come out because of the way diff powerheads spread or point their flow, and the way it bounces off the rocks and glass is unpredictable. You are shooting for good surface agitation for gas exchange, sufficient upwelling to refresh the water down at the bottom of the tank, no dead spots for detritus to collect, but no sandstorm. I find 40x the dt volume for in tank circulation, and 5--7x dt volume for sump flow though to be a good starting point.

So in my 120 i've got four 800 gph and four 520 gph powerheads (5,200 gph), and 800gph return after headloss and pipe friction. My dt circulation is a little high because i like to tuck the powerheads behind the rocks for aesthetics, so i lose some of their force compared to an unobstructed placement.

+1

 

[MadModder]

Everything you said sounded good but what is "DT"?

I didn't mean to make it sound like I'm not interested in this, I am VERY interested. Once upon a time, I thought I was going to be a Marine Biologist. I just want it to be clear that its not being made like this because it how I want it.

How do I figure out what power heads she has? I believe they say "Hydron" on them but thats it.

 

[morpheas]

DT is display tank.

I guess they are Hydor Koralia. You need to find out the model from them and from there you can find the flowrates.

 

[CStrickland]

DT = Display Tank

google some hydor koralia powerheads and try to tell which model by the way it attaches to the glass, or the shape of it

EDIT lol what they said

 

[MadModder]

I have 3 power heads. On the low side, I have two 600s and a 1200. On the high side, I have two 850s and 1400, which is still not 40x the tank volume.