newb here

Looks good. Are they used?? I would check new prices to make sure you don't overbid, possibly on hellolights.com or similar.
 
So, I've been reading on here a LOT about hang on over flows...and have determined that:

Hang on's = much badness

So, I'm thinking to myself...maybe I would just get two holes drilled in the tank...one for the over flow, and one for the return line to help clean things up a bit. Then build an acrylic overflow in the back corner.

How hard is it to cut glass and not comprimise the structural integrity of the glass itself? I've heard that drilling glass actually makes it weaker. Any truth to that?

Also, where is the best place (read cheapest) to get acrylic from in Des Moines? I need to be able to get tubes and sheets in order to build my skimmer and the overflow, and modify the sump that I plan on using.
 
Drilling tanks is pretty simple, all you need is a garden hose to keep the tank cool and a dremel with a tile cutting bit. As far as the acylic goes i think there is a Regal Plastics in Des Moines, they can get you anything you could ever imagine.
 
Well, I have a dremel with a BUNCH of attachments with it (29 bucks at Menards). I think I have a tile cutter in with em.

Will that bit also cut acrylic just as well or not?

So basically, to cut the hole, I'd need to template out the size of the hole, outline it on the glass, and then simply keep a steady source of water on the surrounding glass to keep the temperature down, and cut out the circles?
 
I also have a question about a skimmer I was planning on building.

Someone had mentioned in the DIY thread that a "spray bar" or a T would help reduce the amount of turbulence, and even out the spread of the water.

So, I drew up a quick sketch of a skimmer, and was wondering what everyone thought about it.

My thought was, borrowing from the idea I saw from Melev about his spray bar in the bottom of his DIY CA reactor, that this would allow the incoming water to be more evenly distributed throughout the body of the skimmer, and allow more contact time and at less pressure with the air bulbs coming up from a central controlled column. Since it would be a downward flow, this would give more contact time, with less turbulence in the water, maximizing the contact.

Would this kind of design even work?

Any and all thoughts are very much welcome.
 

Attachments

It looks as if you have a 55 gallon tank. I would be very cautious about drilling that tank. ALOT of 55 gallon tanks are made of tempered glass. I would do some major research on your tank brand to see if the whole thing is tempered or just the backwall or bottom

You can't drill tempered glass it basically explodes. Watch this for an example of what tempered glass does when drilled!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uigdnhUsns
 
So, after lots of questions, I've come up with a couple of designs for my tank for the main plumbing, and the plumbing for the return line.

I admit, they are kinda crude sketches using Paint, but I think they get the idea accross.

Any and all comments are extremely welcome.

Main plumbing.
showphoto.php


Return line plumbing.
showphoto.php
 
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