Newbie looking for easy testing solutions. Help!

[Omri]

I'm starting a new 140 gallon reef tank this weekend and wanted to buy all the test kits I need. This is my least favorite part of reefing from past tank experience so I'm looking for something convenient and easy I can stick with!

What should I test for when I first start the tank?
How often?
Which test kits are easy and most accurate?

When the tank finishes cycling what should I test for and how often?
If someone has a good system, please share your practices! I would like to keep a log of these results near the tank but make it something I will actually do!

 

[billdogg]

I have been using Salifert for all my testing for over 30 years. I find them to be reasonably priced, easy to use, they give very repeatable results, and are more than accurate enough for our needs.

hth

 

[Uncle99]

Prior to cycle I test
Temp
Salinity
Nitrite
Ammonia

After cycle, but Prior to having any corals, I tested weekly for:
Temp
Salinity
Nitrate
Phosphate

After adding corals, I tested the same above weekly and included
ALK ( which I test for daily)
Ca
Mg.
PH (I don't chase PH number, but I do monitor the number)

I keep a worksheet to monitor progress/adherence to the levels.

Testing is the most important factor in success.

I use Sailfert as well except for ALK for which I use Hanna.

 

[mike550]

My tank is around 4 months old. I’m testing with Red Sea “Marine Care Test Kit” for Ammonia, Alkalinity, pH, NO2 and NO3. Using Hanna checkers for salinity and phosphate. I test every few days and really let NO3 drive water changes. Also keep a log.

 

[mcgyvr]

Fish only? Or corals too?
Have you determined what your water change schedule will be?

Testing can be from nothing to full out excessive depening on your goals/plans for the tank..
I am just fish (urchins/cucs,etc) and soft corals now.. I haven't tested anything in months.. Its so nice not to be bound to test kit routines.

 

[Sk8r]

Fish aren't too persnickety: keep their alk around 8.3 and things will generally go right. In maintaining a 'locked' chemistry of cal 420/alk 8.3/magnesium 1350....you have a choice of dosing cal (via kalk powder in your topoff water), buffer, and mg; or doing it all by two-part. Both work. Clams and stony coral require calcium supplementation; fish-onlies and softies don't. The colored stick corals (stony) or small polyp (SPS) require really hyperclean water because they eat light---so to speak, and they are the bleeding edge of the hobby; the large polyp stonies (LPS) are not as fussy, and eat via mouths as well as light: fish poo keeps them supplied, generally. And the soft corals actually prefer their water 'richer' and not as rigorously skimmed, because they filter much of theiir food from the water.