Newbie needs help!!!!

[rogersmith]

New to the hobby, sorry if I don't have all the terminology correct!!! I have a torch ( againI think it's a torch!!) That I put in my 125 gallon tank. Tank is cycled, fish are thriving and I have 2-3 zoas that are thriving. Woke up this morning and this is what the torch looked like. It lost all its's "bulbs" on top and now I only see like a squeleton underneath??? All parameters seem fine, salinity at 1.021??? Led's are on for about 6 hours and placement of torch is 7 inches below water..
Any ideas what happened??
Thanks for all input...

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[Ron Reefman]

I can't tell you if that is/was a torch. I've killed a couple over the years. I have one now that is doing well, but it's in a 6 year old 180g tank that is part of a 450g system. I think they are a bit fussy and certainly not a good choice for a new tank or a newbie in the hobby. Sorry. I think the issue is, your tank may be cycled, and that's enough for a lot of different fish, corals and other inverts. But ones that are difficult need tanks that are 'mature' which can take 6 to 12 months depending on how it's taken care of.

Your's doesn't look completely dead, but it does look like it's in serious trouble. Sorry.

 

[joshbrookkate]

Why is your salinity at 1.021?

 

[heathlindner25]

Torch are way more difficult than say, frogspawn or branching hammer, and as stated...salinity too low.
When salinity is low cal,alk, and mag are low.

 

[CStrickland]

Welcome to the hobby and the forum!

Torch coral are a type of euphyllia, which is a type of lps (large polyp stony) coral. They are not the easiest euphyllia, and euphyllia are not the easiest lps, but they aren't the hardest kind to keep either. All coral need a few things to be happy, and among coral there are some things that are common and some that aren't. So your happy zoa don't necessarily mean that the torch will thrive, but it's a good sign.

When you are picking which coral to add to your tank, you mostly want to pay attention to a few things: the water has to be clean, these are your nutrient parameters like nitrates and phosphates and a good source like rodi filtered water; your water needs to have enough minerals, these parameters are alkalinity, calcium and magnesium; you tank needs to be stable, temperature and salinity; and the spot you put the coral needs the right current and light. All but the last two are things you need to test the water for regularly so you have an idea of the long game trends that your specific tank has. Whether you're using kits for nitrate or a thermometer for temp or a refractometer for salinity - it should be a big picture of a tank that the coral will like. On top of that you have to pick a good one in the first place and it can't get beat up too much on the way to your tank.

Here is an article that explains what euphyllia need to be happy, and there is a section about torches http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/corals

The salt we buy also delivers the minerals I mentioned above, so when your salinity is low your alk or calcium might also be, because you are using less salt. If you decide to raise it go slow, like .001 sg per day. Sometimes they just close up because they are angry about being moved or have to poop. Sometimes one of the things mentioned above is off so they won't ever come out. Sometimes they get infected where they are damaged during collection or transport - if you see a white fuzz over it or a brown scum Google "brown jelly disease" right away. Otherwise just go slow, try to get it settled in a good spot according to the article and don't bother it too much. It may just have jet lag from the long trip