Next DIY
- Thread starter Brian Prestwood
- Start date
Yeah, I've seen some 1200's mods for sale because the owner decided it was TOO much flow. I'm going with 400's.
Justin, Carbon Fiber rules. I love that stuff. I'm in for trying that out. I've not been keeping up with the mod thread since I was MIA for the past couple of months, so I haven't read about how effective it would be. But I imagine it would work just fine. Thanks for the suggestion!
-Chris
Justin, Carbon Fiber rules. I love that stuff. I'm in for trying that out. I've not been keeping up with the mod thread since I was MIA for the past couple of months, so I haven't read about how effective it would be. But I imagine it would work just fine. Thanks for the suggestion!
-Chris
The maxijet mod sucks. My Tunze is far superior to that piece of junk.
Ok - I was only kidding. I have seen the maxi-jet mods and I have been very impressed with it. I do have two Tunze in my tank that I think are better. But then again - we are talking about $700 worth of Tunzes (plus controller) vs I would guess less than $100 for two maxi-jet mods. For the price the maxijet mods are phenomenal!
Minh
Ok - I was only kidding. I have seen the maxi-jet mods and I have been very impressed with it. I do have two Tunze in my tank that I think are better. But then again - we are talking about $700 worth of Tunzes (plus controller) vs I would guess less than $100 for two maxi-jet mods. For the price the maxijet mods are phenomenal!
Minh
Pico1
New member
I have 2 of the tunze nanostream 6025's and they are only about $60 each (maxi-mods are approx. $50 each). For $10 more you don't have to mod, have a smaller, black unit, and have tunze quality and performance. The only thing is that it is only 660 GPH but at only 4W that is pretty good.
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
169 pages!!!
If you cut the exhaust tube off the impeller housing you could fit (& glue) a 1.5" ID tube down over it. That eliminates the need for all the complex machining to reform the impeller housing seat. Of course, you'd have to find some 1.5" ID tubing. 2" OD PVC is close. You could make some shims from thin wall PVC tubing and be there.
If you cut the exhaust tube off the impeller housing you could fit (& glue) a 1.5" ID tube down over it. That eliminates the need for all the complex machining to reform the impeller housing seat. Of course, you'd have to find some 1.5" ID tubing. 2" OD PVC is close. You could make some shims from thin wall PVC tubing and be there.
H20Sidhe
New member
Brian,
I'm not sure what you mean about re-forming the impeller housing. My housing wasn't changed. The impeller is changed into a propeller & a pvc shroud is built for it. Here is a pic of what mine looks like
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=154893&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
and the way it was made
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=717034
I don't think it is 169 pages, either.
I'm not sure what you mean about re-forming the impeller housing. My housing wasn't changed. The impeller is changed into a propeller & a pvc shroud is built for it. Here is a pic of what mine looks like
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=154893&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
and the way it was made
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=717034
I don't think it is 169 pages, either.
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Hey Sherie
See how they cut the groove near the end of the PVC tube then take out a couple of notches so it will fit over the tabs on the pump housing. That has to be done just right or the tube won't secure to the pump housing. Make the bevel too thick and the tabs won't fit over it. Make it too thin and the tube will not secure to the pump housing. It took some serious marchinist Kung Fu to do that with a hand held Dremel.
You could eliminate the need to machine that bevel by cutting the exhuast off the existing impeller housing and gluing a piece of tubing to it.
I noticed that someone eliminated the need for that machining by inserting a pressure cap part of the way into the tube then cutting a couple of notches out of it. Same basic idea but use the original impeller housing.
See how they cut the groove near the end of the PVC tube then take out a couple of notches so it will fit over the tabs on the pump housing. That has to be done just right or the tube won't secure to the pump housing. Make the bevel too thick and the tabs won't fit over it. Make it too thin and the tube will not secure to the pump housing. It took some serious marchinist Kung Fu to do that with a hand held Dremel.
You could eliminate the need to machine that bevel by cutting the exhuast off the existing impeller housing and gluing a piece of tubing to it.
I noticed that someone eliminated the need for that machining by inserting a pressure cap part of the way into the tube then cutting a couple of notches out of it. Same basic idea but use the original impeller housing.
H20Sidhe
New member
Now I understand what you were referring to! I really like that this one is not glued, so I can take it apart for cleaning, or if the prop ever needed to be repaired or replaced. I know that Danh does some of the work on a drill press (the coveted tool!) I didn't realize that cutting the connection slots was such a precise operation. Now I am even more satisfied that I didn't try this myself; and more pleased with the very nice work Danh did! 
One of the important functions the prop housing provides is to direct the prop to only turn one way. Can you do that using the original impeller housing?
One of the important functions the prop housing provides is to direct the prop to only turn one way. Can you do that using the original impeller housing?
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
If you glue the impeller housing into the tube then it would come off just like it does for standard use. Just turn the tube until the notches line up and it comes off.
As for the direction the propeller turns, is it possible for it to turn either way when the power is on?
As for the direction the propeller turns, is it possible for it to turn either way when the power is on?
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Hey Justin
Is that built into the powerhead or part of the mod?
Is that built into the powerhead or part of the mod?
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
I wonder what tangential ejection pumps, like MAK4, do to prevent wrong direction starts?
Justin74
New member
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Hey Justin
We used to do it that way, multiple fittings to to have material thick enough to tap through. Then the price of clear PVC came down. Its thick enough to tap through so we eliminated the extra fittings.
Brian
We used to do it that way, multiple fittings to to have material thick enough to tap through. Then the price of clear PVC came down. Its thick enough to tap through so we eliminated the extra fittings.
Brian
H20Sidhe
New member
Justin,
Someone figured out that the clear DI cannister from a RO/DI unit works perfectly for a kalkwasser reactor. I saw them online somewhere for about $6. All you have to do is reverse the in & out fittings, plug & play.
Of course, if the fun is spending the time building cool things out of plastics . . .
I still want to learn how to build a surge tank out of acrylic.
Brian, you can count my vote twice if you want. 
Justin74
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8887486#post8887486 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20Sidhe
Justin,
Someone figured out that the clear DI cannister from a RO/DI unit works perfectly for a kalkwasser reactor. I saw them online somewhere for about $6. All you have to do is reverse the in & out fittings, plug & play.
Of course, if the fun is spending the time building cool things out of plastics . . .
I still want to learn how to build a surge tank out of acrylic.
I would love to hear more about this! And heavens no, I only tinker if my wallet says I must
-Justin
