Next Generation Re-build Thread

elittle

New member
No, I did not have a catastrophic problem resulting in a rebuild. I have been out of the hobby for about six years and have decided to hop back in. I had a post earlier asking folks if I should refurbish or sell and start new. There was a lot of support for refurbish.

I am still a bit mixed and may do a partial refurbish and partial new. What do I mean? I have rebuilt the stand (a meaningful story for me... more later) but I think that my plans to refurbish the old acrylic tank may not be feasible. The old tank had an integrated filter compartment and I am going to a sump. I was going to cut out the filter compartment but that is looking like a potential deal killer. So, while I figure out what to do with the tank, here is the story of the stand.

My grandfather and I built the stand about 20 years ago. It is probably stronger than anything else I own with six oak 2X4 posts with an oak 2X4 rectangle at the bottom and top. Filling in the sides is oak veneer plywood slotted into datos in the 2X4. It turned out great. Only problem is, at the time, I had no vision of a reef and protein skimming was not the norm it is today. The result is the stand is not tall enough to fit a good skimmer.

To fix that , I moved to the next generation and my son and I rebuilt the stand (good thing I had his help to as he stopped me from making a couple of incorrect cuts). We removed the top and created a joint to add another 10 inches to the overall height. We were able to reuse the top with some repairs. The original also only had two doors on the front. Obviously not enough room to get a sump in. So, we used a circular saw to plunge cut and create a square opening in the end. We then cut some thin oak strips with a bevel and used that to overlap the cut. Attached the strips to the cut out panel, added screen latches and the end is now removable to get the sump in and out.

On the inside, we wanted to damp proof the oak to avoid rot. So we painted the interior with truck bed liner. Should help to prevent problems with general moisture and small spills. We finished the exterior with stain and a clear urethane finish.

And since we know everyone loves pictures. Here they are:
 

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Likely the replacement tank will be a 90 long (48 X 18 X 24). My old tank was the same length and width but not as tall for a total of about 65 gallons. The stand was built for that dimension.

Eric
 
Time for some opinions. Here is what I am planning to run. Let me know if you see anything you would do differently and most importantly why.

What will it house

I am looking to do an LPS reef with smaller peaceful fish (wrasse, goby, clown, anthias, etc.). I have had a yellow or a purple tang in the past but I wonder if the size is really enough for such an active fish (opinions). I prefer peaceful fish as I really hate coming home to find a piece full tank.
Also, when I say LSP reef, I do not mean LPS dominant with maybe a bit of this and a bit of that. I mean LPS and LPS only (Acans, Chalice, Euphylia, Favia, and Scolymia). There is plenty of variety in that bunch to keep the tank visually interesting.

Tank

As I mentioned above, I am looking at a tank that will be 90 gallons (48 X 18 X 24). Given the limited space front to back (I would love to have a 48 X 48 cube for that depth perception [need an emogie for drool]) I want to remove as much as possible from taking up that space. I am therefore thinking of using something like the Synergy Reef overflow. Takes up very little space in the tank. Is long to maximize surface skimming. Looks like it has enough room to run the bean animal plumbing. And I have enough room between the tank and the wall for it to fit (plus when we rebuilt the stand, we left the upper back panels out to make room for all the plumbing.

Filtration

I am somewhat convinced on going Vertex on the skimmer. I have not read anything bad about them and I read a lot of good things about the Sicce pump. My question then is the Omega 150 or 180? If I keep my current display tank (65 gallons) I think the 150 would do it even with relatively heavy load. If on the other hand if I go with the 90, I think the 180 is a better choice. Of course perhaps the 180 is the better choice regardless even if I stay with the current display tank as it will be easy to up-size that later.

Flow

I already have a Mag Drive 9.5 which after head losses should put me around 600 gallons per hour which is still 6.7 times turnover per hour. This is in the magic 5 - 10 times per hour and while it could be better, I do not need the flow of SPS. In addition, I am thinking of doing the MaxSpect Gyre. The question then is the 130 or the 150. Opinions welcome on this. I know I can always turn down the 150 if it is too much but if it is not necessary, then why bother oversizing. Again, considering that this will be LPS, it will not have the huge flow needs of an SPS tank.

Lighting

I want to go with LED as the power consumption is much better and the spectrum adjustability is really nice. Plus, I would like the shimmer effect (my old tank used t5 and the lack of shimmer was a bit disappointing). Again, thinking of LSP lighting needs, I was considering two Kessil A160. Those that have played with these lights and know LPS needs, do you think this will be enough light or will I need the more powerful A360? Or, the A160 and a pair of T-5. The options are nearly endless (aside from space restrictions... budget... excess heat.... I guess it really isn't endless).

Sump

I am strongly considering building my own as a simple glass tank and making my own baffles will be relatively inexpensive and I can make the chambers the size I need for the equipment.

Other

I am thinking of small dosing pumps and dosing B-ionic. Given the limited room inside the stand, I am thinking a calcium reactor will blow up the space. I am also strongly considering running Zeovit. Everytime I see a tank running it, it is amazingly clear with very healthy livestock. Perhaps that is attibutable to other maintenance but I have to wonder. Again, any opinions on running Zeovit would be appreciated. Finally, I will replace all the filters in my RO/DI before filling (current condition is fine for drinking (without the DI stage) but probably not optimal for a reef tank).

Thanks for reading and thanks for any opinions that you provide.

Eric
 
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