Nitroq2 to H@rry, Come in H@rry

Nitroq2

New member
Just wanted to see how the tank was doing after the extermination. Do you still need pods, worms and chaeto? If so I am still willing to pack you some in a box and send your way. I tested a cup of sand/mud by leaving it out and I still seen life after a several days at room temps. So I think it would ship fine. I have some small containers that will seal that I can put the sand in. Just checking in, you have been kinda quite, I hope all is well.
Allen
 
I really haven't pressed the pod issue very hard because the Interceptor didn't kill all the pods. I thought it would but the week after I was cleaning the overflow box with a toothbrush and saw several of them. Also, Tomoko gave me a bottle of them. Her's were very small and the ones I've seen are the larger ones. I also saw my pistol shrimp that I expected to be killed. Actually, the only thing that I see it killed were the red bugs and some finger sponge. Thanx for the offer anyway. I thought I was going to need them. I'm being *very* selective about what goes in these tanks now. I got some frags this weekend from a source that is considered very "clean" but I nuked them for 6 hours in the QT tank anyway.
 
I got some frags this weekend from a source that is considered very "clean" but I nuked them for 6 hours in the QT tank anyway. [/B]

LOL! And I consider 6 weeks in QT living dangerously!
 
FWIW,
I did a second Interceptor treatment on my 40g yesterday, after having redbugs in it for about a year. After reading Harry's post, I went and took a gander at my 'fuge and noticed several of the larger pods scurrying about... none the worse for wear it seems.
Mariner
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9119145#post9119145 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NicoleC
LOL! And I consider 6 weeks in QT living dangerously!

Actually I've never heard of anyone going over 7 hours. I think it was Tomoko who mentioned that a 10x treatment only required 15 or 20 minutes. Since I don't have lights on the QT tank, there probably wouldn't be much left after 6 weeks even if the Interceptor didn't kill them.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9122431#post9122431 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H@rry
Actually I've never heard of anyone going over 7 hours. I think it was Tomoko who mentioned that a 10x treatment only required 15 or 20 minutes. Since I don't have lights on the QT tank, there probably wouldn't be much left after 6 weeks even if the Interceptor didn't kill them.

I QT everything 6+ weeks. Fish. Corals. Algae. Pods. Anything.

That doesn't mean I medicate or treat for a particular disease that long. (Unless needed.)

The QT period is to make sure I don't introduce anything undesirable in that tank. It also gives me time to train fish to eat (and deworm them) and also train corals to accept target feeding, and I can provide them with low flow or extra flow, or whatever their stressed condition needs.

As a result, I never battle pest algae, parasites, bugs, worms, ick, hydroids... the early effort of QT'ing is well worth the results and work saved constantly battling some nuisance.
 
Nicole,
How often do you introduce stuff to the main tank, and even more so to the QT tank? The reason I ask is it seems that you would have to purchase in 6 week cycles in small amounts? Or am I missing something. Also wouldn't it require us folks with SPS to create lots of flow in the QT tank and have a halide on it to keep from stressing or killing the coral. Then the problem that presents itself with that is the changes in lighting twice over 6 weeks (which is time for it to adjust to that new lighting) which seemingly would further irratate the coral. Not trying to argue just wanting to better understand what you are doing and how you are doing it.
 
Nicole,
How often do you introduce stuff to the main tank, and even more so to the QT tank? The reason I ask is it seems that you would have to purchase in 6 week cycles in small amounts?

At this point, I introduce very little. For one, I don't have much space in the small tank I am keeping right now! But after about 14 years in this hobby, I have pretty much cured Coral Acquisition Syndrome with only minor relapses at frag swaps and wholesaler visits. :)

But yes, if you only have one QT, you introduce in batches, Of course, if that perfect specimen comes along, you can put it in your QT anyway and just restart the 6 week clock. The more you have in your QT, though, the more likely one item will infect the others

Formerly while in full-fledged acquisition mode, I usually kept 2 QT tanks. Sometimes 3, but that was usually if I was trying to save someone's sick fish or some other special project.

Also wouldn't it require us folks with SPS to create lots of flow in the QT tank and have a halide on it to keep from stressing or killing the coral.

If the tank is shallow, you won't need a MH.

Personally, I think ALL corals need good flow. Flow, not velocity. It doesn't take much to get good flow in a $10 Petco 10g QT -- you don't even need to buy great equipment since it won't be on all the time, unless you are constantly adding things to your tank. Often, you can get a good used setup on the cheap when someone is upsizing their display tank.

Then the problem that presents itself with that is the changes in lighting twice over 6 weeks (which is time for it to adjust to that new lighting) which seemingly would further irratate the coral. Not trying to argue just wanting to better understand what you are doing and how you are doing it.

This is a consideration when designing a QT tank. Choose lights with a similar spectrum and intensity to the display tank. Design good laminar flow in the same way you would your display tank. But a QT tank is often going to be much simpler: smaller, usually with no sump or skimmer or calcium reactor. If you do have a sump, building an overhead water flow manifold out of PVC is easy, cheap and fun.

IME, as long as the lighting is not dramatically dimmer or brighter, this isn't much of an issue in terms of stress. Some of the brightly colored SPS corals that are prone to losing color easily is the exception, of course, and then it's mostly aesthetic. But no one wants their new purple frag to turn brown.

Many hobbiests have an aversion to spending $100 on a decent QT setup to protect what is often a multi-thousand dollar investment. Yet I see many of these same hobbiests spending hundreds of dollars on single frags or high dollar fish. Then comes a lot of hand-wringing and complaining about fighting flatworms or some other nuisance that was completely unavoidable or could have been battled in a small tank without risking the other livestock.

I've been there. I used to throw stuff willy-nilly into tanks, maybe with an Iodine or FWE dip to make myself feel protected. And then I found myself tearing the tank apart or killing off life in the tank to catch the sick fish, kill the pest, etc. I got tired of it, and I won't do it again!
 
I think the definition of a QT tank or quarantine is actually different from what H@rry is calling a QT tank. Harry is using his spare tank for mainly observation purpose.

The common definition of a quarantine tank is the one Nicole is using. You quarantine your livestock for a 30 days or more to make sure the specimen is safe to introduce into your display tank.

The method H@rry is using is what I call a treatment and observation tank. I did the same thing to make sure that my new acropora frag won’t bring in acropora eating flatworms and red bugs which are running pretty rampant in our hobby now. I knew the source very well and their livestock looked great and free of the bugs, but I treated them anyways. I observed the frags for a few days and put them into my display tank. If I did not know the source well, I would have QT’d them for full 45 days.

I quarantine fish more than I quarantine other things. I know that I should quarantine everything including live rocks because of the nasty hitchhikers and diseases. Some of you may wonder why quarantine live rock? Live rocks sometimes bring in things such as particular kind of hydroid which is rather hard to eradicate. They can bring in parasitic isopods, Eunicid worms, flatworms and other hitchhikers that happened to take a refuge in it, too. It’s easy to take out the suspect live rock (or a frag for that matter) but some hitchhikers can swim and may slip right off the rock into your display tank.

As Allen pointed out, quarantining is harder than just having a separate tank. You need the right condition to keep the target animal alive and healthy for a period of time you put them in there. The current, lighting and other stuff. It’s like having another tank like your display tank less live rocks, sand, and other animals.

It’s not always easy to do this. I can understand why some people give up on the idea of a quarantine tank. A couple of years ago I lost a beautiful school of 8 to 9 Apogon cyanosoma (yellow stripe cardinalfish) which were doing so well for 4 weeks in my spare tank. I got suddenly really busy at work and ended up neglecting the tank for a couple of weeks. Erratic topping off and feeding stressed the fish tremendously and a runt of the school developed ich which then spread. I had to treat the whole school. I tried a few non-copper treatments, hypo salinity, garlic, so-called reef safe ich treatment, etc. because I intended to use the QT tank for corals later. I guess I learned my lesson. I should have had a separate QT tank and I should have been more decisive to try the right cure from the start. No messing around.

QT’ing is important to protect our livestock and the investment we have made in our tank in terms of time and money, but if you don’t want to have a QT tank set up all the time, I recommend that you get a sponge filter and float the sponge in your sump or fuge just in case you need to set up a QT tank in a hurry.

Sorry about my long post,

Tomoko
 
but if you don’t want to have a QT tank set up all the time, I recommend that you get a sponge filter and float the sponge in your sump or fuge just in case you need to set up a QT tank in a hurry.

Yes, having a QT set up all the time is annoying. You don't need it up most of the time.

Floating the sponge doesn't work very well though unless you can get it so that a lot of water is forced through it... which will make it a detritus trap and have to be cleaned often. If you are already running air, T'ing off a bit can drive the sponge filter slowly and it will be chock full of bacteria.

But floating the sponge is better than nothing, and often sufficient if the bioload in your QT is low.
 
You can always squeeze the floating sponge in the sump or fuge to soak up some gunk off the bottom which is loaded with bacteria and benthic copepods.

Unless you are quarantining a big fish, the sponge will work, but don't forget regular water changes. The water in a small tank gets dirty pretty fast if you have a good size fish.

Tomoko
 
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