They can measure different levels bc source can be different. Phosphate can come from using unfiltered tap water, KH buffers, activated carbon and some say from flake foods. Are you using RODI water?Ok...But what really messed my mind was the nitrates high and phosphate low. I thought they were supposed to be more like the same.
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They can measure different levels bc source can be different. Phosphate can come from using unfiltered tap water, KH buffers, activated carbon and some say from flake foods. Are you using RODI water?
Whereas Nitrate is byproduct of fish waste and uneaten excess food, its the final byproduct of the nitrogen cycle...so basically Nitrate is mostly from organic waste. If u overfeed and too often, u can/will have high nitrate. How often do u feed and are the fish eating everything in few mins?
any powerhead to move water in tank?My tank has about a year. I use a Chihiros Led setup for marine tank, a tunze 9004 doc skimmer, one eheim 2000 for circulation (now I have very few rock I took out the other one so it doesn't get dirty). Eheim heater, filter sock, jebao 2000 dc for return, tmc vecton 600 uv (just a few days running), and a fuge with some ruble, sand and the killer hermits.
As for the corals that died, I tried a caulastrea, ricordea, protopalytoa, discosoma and a seriatopora frag...it just get disappointing
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Some of those corals require lot of work and good stable water parameters. Next time ck out Liveaquaria and try some of their "beginner corals" http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=597+2856to become familiar and comfortable taking care of coralMy tank has about a year. As for the corals that died, I tried a caulastrea, ricordea, protopalytoa, discosoma and a seriatopora frag...it just get disappointing
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2 of those powerheads should create good water movement. were they aimed at the rocks?Yes, for the moment an Eheim Stream 2000. I had another one, but the dt is almost empty...so one seems enough for now
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2 of those powerheads should create good water movement. were they aimed at the rocks?
lolWell, I had one behind the rocks, another facing the front glass and the return pump kind of downwards...in such a small tank (60 cm wide) everything was in a roller coaster.
Great to hear! also with a 180 liter ttl water volume, your system is going to require more attention/maintenance than a larger system. 180 liter is going to be less forgiving as far as water parameter changes so requires frequent testing etc.One thing for sure, I'll only add another coral after everything is stable. I don't have any other test besides phosphates and nitrates, and that is a huge flaw. I thought I could rely on good salt and rodi water. I always check the tds on the rodi water and sometimes do the nitrates and phosphates tests just to be sure. But I'll have to invest in a chemistry test kit, for sure.
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no worries, anytime. if u'r interested in Deep Sand Bed (DSB) as an additonal natural filter, u should look into it. http://www.ronshimek.com/deep_sand_beds.htmlYeah, for sure. I admit I'm not lazy with maintenance. I like taking care of the tank and have everything clean. I have been doing at this time 2 wc per week of about 10%...
I have to get the tests. I'm sailing blind in here.
And thanks for sticking with me here. I really need help.
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