North Dakota Mini-Ocean

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DAS work well, you will not be disappointed. SOmetimes you need to mod them for flow, and/or choke the air, if you can believe that. Set up properly it will look like a milk jug. :D
 
Excellent thread

Excellent thread

I would add a humidistat to the tank room as a controller for the air exchanger.

Do you have plans for a back-up generator? With a system this nice it would be a shame to not have that in the design.
 
There will be a humidistat as well a temp control in the tank room. I do have plans to put a generator in the mechanical room to run the bare essentials (pumps, skimmer, T5 lights) if the power fails to those circuits.
 
Since I've had some lull time with the tank I have done numerous hours of research on an equipment list. I would like to hear some suggestions on the equipment list below.

Lets make this list based on what you think will work BEST for this particular system...Lets take money out of the equation and go for best performace/value for the application. Basically if you think the performance is worth the money (no matter how much) suggest it.

Suggestions for any/all would be greatly appreciated!

Closed Loop Pump -

Main tank Circulation Pump -

Main tank return oscillator/water director/eductor (Sea Swirl, WavySea, etc) -

Powerheads -

Lighting -

Protein Skimmer - Volcano!! This one is set in stone.

Carbon filtration -

Phosphate Reactor -

Calcium Reactor/Effulent Chamber -

Kalk Reactor -

UV Sterilizer -

Ozonizer -

RO/DI unit -

Float Switch -

Dosing Pump -

Controller -

Chiller -

Heater -

Misc/Other Suggestions -
 
Closed Loop Pump - Sequence

Main tank Circulation Pump - Sequence

Main tank return oscillator/water director/eductor (Sea Swirl, WavySea, etc) - If any, WavySeas, but you proobably won't need it.

Powerheads - Hidden Tunze

Lighting - Ushio SE 20K MH

Protein Skimmer - Volcano!! This one is set in stone.

Carbon filtration - * Ask Scott to build you an all-in-one.

Phosphate Reactor - *

Calcium Reactor/Effulent Chamber - *

Kalk Reactor - Deltec

UV Sterilizer - Aqua Ultraviolet Viper

Ozonizer -

RO/DI unit - SpectraPure

Float Switch - SpectraPure

Dosing Pump - SpectraPure

Controller - http://www.aquariumcontrollers.com/

Chiller -

Heater - Medussa/Aqua Logic
 
jnarowe - NICE list man. I'd have to agree pretty much but if it were me I'd put an OM 4 way or 8way on your CL. I like the random flow they produce.

Lunchbucket
 
LB: OM's are fairly good for smaller tanks, but present some problems for larger ones. We have to really run a lot of flow and generally speaking don't want to be worrying about failures. The OM line does have some issues well documented, and for a tank this size, he is really going to have to step up from that level. I would guess his in-tank flow target to be somewhere between 25,000 and 35,000 gph.
 
OM's cannot handle back pressure, like that produced when using eductors to increase flow, I have tried, the drum won't turn. They do well as long as there is no restriction to outflow at the ends, otherwise they will handle a hammerhead without a problem.
 
jnarowe - Huh...interesting. I just figured w/ out anything on the ends of the outlets it would work well?

Lunchbucket
 
our thoughts for the 4 way are to hide the locklines in the rock work to hit the dead spots in the bottom of the tank. the drumb will be a single holed drumb to fire 2 or 3 lock lines on a single leg at a time. we are building a very special manifold in the bottom of the tank to be low profile and still flow alot of water through them. this will not be the main flow for the tank what so ever. i think charles has deciede to install 6 of the 6201's in the tank for the main flow. these will be hidden behind tunze boxes that ae covered with live rock to hide them and break up the squareness of the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11499453#post11499453 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spazz
our thoughts for the 4 way are to hide the locklines in the rock work to hit the dead spots in the bottom of the tank. the drumb will be a single holed drumb to fire 2 or 3 lock lines on a single leg at a time. we are building a very special manifold in the bottom of the tank to be low profile and still flow alot of water through them. this will not be the main flow for the tank what so ever. i think charles has deciede to install 6 of the 6201's in the tank for the main flow. these will be hidden behind tunze boxes that ae covered with live rock to hide them and break up the squareness of the tank.

you may want to use version 3 drum which has symmetrical openings on each side, this allows it to always be in balance and therefore turn easier, according to Paul at OM.
 
with the way the manifords are designed we cant have more than 1 hole in the OM or the flow will be so little that it wont move any water to keep the detritus from building up.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11498376#post11498376 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lunchbucket
jnarowe - Huh...interesting. I just figured w/ out anything on the ends of the outlets it would work well?

Lunchbucket

Well as you can see, Scott has it figured out. It's my feeling that they are not sufficient for large tanks, but in this case, they are using a variety of flow mechanisms. For me, I would rather not bring in the extra mechanical risk. I guess the risk is fairly low and you can always have a spare drum on hand.

My next tank will probably have a pressure rated return pump with Penductors to keep the bottom clean and force detritus up and into the overflow, giving me high flow in the tank and lower flow to the sump, while still utilizing just one large pump, plus built-in(hidden) wave boxes. I will shoot for 50,000 - 60,000 gph capacity from the wave boxes so that I can "de-tune" them to provide wicked random flow but without the waves.
 
Wow coolpazz. I did just what you were talking about. I bought my first reef tank and have a dartt running my om4 perfecly fine ( not saying it will work with the hammerhead).

I was afraid of drilling my tank so i have 1 of the 1' om ports going into a 3/4 pipe . It comes from the top and goes down the side to the bottom where I have 4 1/2 loclines. I have some pictures on my thread. I kept going down in diameter to build up a little pressure. At the other port that flows at the same time I am going to run a 3/4 penductor. I'll find out how it works soon.

I have always hated how my rocks were always fill of fish poo and I didnt have enough flow in my fo tanks. I had a very small skimmer too. So I always love the idea of having flow from the bottom up so it can help get the poop out.

Now that I am not such a rookie after drilling my sump and fuge maybee I will drill the bottom or side. To late now,, Maybee down the line. I did break a tank. Glad my first tank was a 55 I drilled. heheheh
 
I love this tank, my biggest gripe with mine and most other serious flow tanks is all the tunzes and CL returns showing.
I hope I can implement/ retrofit some of your ideas on my own system.
I look forward to more pictures and details!
Chris
 
Updates:

I am heading down to the Minneapolis/St.Paul today to look at some rock and other equipment. I am hoping to pick up a bunch of rock to "mock-up" some aquascaping for powerhead placement...I am still debating between 6201's (6) and 6301's (4).

Also, I will get some aquascaping ideas when I travel to St. Lucia for the next week.

On a side note - I am thinking of doing an aggressive tank once I treat all the fish for the main display. That way I will make full use of the Tenecor 150g I have in the room.

Stands and frag tanks are being made as we speak and I should be able to start QT corals and fish when I get back.
 
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