ocean runner metric conversion (pics)

[spazz]

Fascinating!

Please clear up one point of confusion. You're bonding dissimilar
plastics: ABS (or perhaps polystyrene) at the pump and PVC at
the union. Weld-On #40 (by IPS Corp) is a two-part epoxy,
correct? This is a structural adhesive that bonds like any other
epoxy. This is NOT a solvent like Weld-On #4 or PVC glue.

yep you have it right. this is an epoxy not a solvent. they (ISP)say its a 2 part polomerizing epoxy.

 

[merlock116]

two questions. when you inserted the JG fitting into the union, which side did you put it on? the threaded side or the flange side that the nut pulls on? I'm guessing the threaded side...

where did you put the discs with the center holes? did you cut the discs so their OD is just slightly smaller than the ID of the union o-ring?

 

[spazz]

two questions. when you inserted the JG fitting into the union, which side did you put it on? the threaded side or the flange side that the nut pulls on? I'm guessing the threaded side...

the venturie is on the collar side with the female threads. it could be done to either side of the union. its the owners prefrence to where it goes. i didnt want them on the pump side of the union because if you take the pump off, the airlines stays with the main body of the skimmer.

where did you put the discs with the center holes? did you cut the discs so their OD is just slightly smaller than the ID of the union o-ring?

the disks are located inside the skimmer body on the end of the inflow pipe. its easy to fill up the body most of the way and turn the pumps on. then start with a 3/8" hole. if the pumps cavate then you need to make it bigger. you go until the pumps dont cavatate. this will give the skimmer good suction when its completly full. it might cavate when its full of water and running, because of the higher head it has to suck air against. then you restrict the air back a little or make the hole in the disk a little smaller. when its completly tuned up, take a little weldon 16 and glue the restrictors in place. just use a drop of weldon 16 incase you decide to chanje things around later down the road and you need to retune the skimmer.
i hope this helps. any other questions just ask. im here to help.

 

[Bishop]

I'm think I'm missing something in that first picture; you're cutting off the male threads of the original metric fitting on the pump, and then also cutting and gluing down different (1") unions over the remainder of the old metric fitting?

The discs then you speak of? Are they pictured? They just restrict the intake of the pump to allow the achievement of low pressure to draw in air?

 

[spazz]

I'm think I'm missing something in that first picture; you're cutting off the male threads of the original metric fitting on the pump, and then also cutting and gluing down different (1") unions over the remainder of the old metric fitting?

The discs then you speak of? Are they pictured? They just restrict the intake of the pump to allow the achievement of low pressure to draw in air?

you didnt miss anything. you understand it.

 

[h2joe]

sweet. man i wanna make one that big for my tank. how big is your skimmer body and how did you make the cup or did it come like that?

thanks,
Mark

 

[BeanAnimal]

They just restrict the intake of the pump to allow the achievement of low pressure to draw in air

hrmmm premature cavitationm comes to mind...

Ok so it wasnt that funny.

 

[Bishop]

I think what I'm missing is how the union fits over the remainder of the metric union.

To illustrate; you have a hexagonal portion of the metric fitting remaining; you glue a round union piece over this, that is large enough to fit.

So.... did you bore out the 1" union female to fit over the hexagonal collar or did you just get lucky and it fit; using weldon 40 to fill the gaps and ensure a proper seal?

 

[spazz]

when you trim off some of the standard union and you trim off the metric fittings just above the hex part both pices sit flat on top of each other. it makes for a smooth wide glueing surface.

 

[Bishop]

gotcha

 

[juststartingout]

Spazz, I see you used sch 80 for the unions, is there a reason, or could you run with the sch 40's?

 

[spazz]

i use sch 80 so it looks nicer. you dont need to use it though.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I have read a lot of contradictory information regarding the type of fittings that are now coming on the 3700 pumps.

Some folks are getting a metric union on the output with a GLUED ON ELBOW on the input. Others are getting the same pump with a fitting that can be unthreaded from the input.

ANYBODY have any idea what is being shipped now, and from where? A few people have indicated that the units with the glued on elbow are not workable at all because once you cut it off, there is nothing left to glue to.

 

[spazz]

from what i know they are selling the 2700's with the elbow on them but i have never heard of them gluing them on. the 3700's just come with thehalf of a union metric fitting on them.

 

[BeanAnimal]

So you are saying the half attached to the pump on the 3700s is metric? I am a bit leary about hacking off the union and glueing another in it's place. Kind of scary for an external skimmer where a break has the chance of causing a flood.

 

[Cuby2k]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7755954#post7755954 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
So you are saying the half attached to the pump on the 3700s is metric? I am a bit leary about hacking off the union and glueing another in it's place. Kind of scary for an external skimmer where a break has the chance of causing a flood.

I just ordered a 3700 Bean, I'll update when it gets here.

 

[GROSSR]

I ordered from PA, and I had to cut everything off. The elbow and the threads. I was able to glue what ever I wanted onto the smooth ends, so it really shouldn't be a problem.

Rich

 

[BeanAnimal]

Mine did not come with an elbow on it. It came with a half a threaded metric union on the output and a threaded input.

You can get the metric union parts from the EU (with Metric or Standard internal threads or slip). However the B&K unions thread right onto the output, as mentioned you will have to do a bit of work to get the o-ring to seal (replace it with a fatter one or make a gasket).

A 1" union will glue right over the threads on the front of the unit (just as spazz and others have shown). I used underwater rated epoxy instead of Weld-On. If you wanted you could also cross thread a 1" fitting onto the input side, but I prefered the glue.

 

[Gools]

spazz, do you have any pics of the inside, finished, before filled with water. Really great work!!

 

[Cuby2k]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7753351#post7753351 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal


Some folks are getting a metric union on the output with a GLUED ON ELBOW on the input. Others are getting the same pump with a fitting that can be unthreaded from the input.

ANYBODY have any idea what is being shipped now, and from where? A few people have indicated that the units with the glued on elbow are not workable at all because once you cut it off, there is nothing left to glue to.

As promised . . .

I just got in two of the 3700's one from two different retailers I might add. AND they are identical in that there is a metric 1/2 union on the discharge and a metric male inlet. Is the epoxy that you used on the inlet holding Bean?

SPAZZ, is the epoxy holding ok on the glued fittings that you used? I guess I am faced with the same method and my pumps will be sitting outside of the sump. I am not so concerned about a burst as I am a leak. A butt joint does seem a little spookie. :eek2: