Octopus Skimmer Mods

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Neck size on the H&S A200-1260 is 4.5"
Neck size on the Deltec AP701 is 3.5"
Neck size on my NW200 is 3.5" is it the same on the RPS3000?
If so then it could probably stay stable with the Ehiem 1260 with the air dialed back just a bit just as Deltec suggest for the AP701.

For those that follow both threads sorry for the DP I ment to put it here.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7958389#post7958389 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
You people are so damn demanding its ridiculous....


when I get home :-P



Its been a few days . Still would like to see those pics before I sell my unit ;)
 
Just made a gate valve mod on my nw200. Its pretty simple, just use 1 and 1/4 pvc and put a coupling end and the bottom of it. Then just get that rubber sleeve that they carry at home depot with those stainless steel clamps on them and put them over the coupling and the output of the skimmer tube. It should go over them pretty tight. I put some cable ties around the rubber section just to make sure but it works great.
 
Okay I used my rps3000 pump to areate some water change water. With nothing but the venturi attached I get 14scfh which is 1 scfh higher than when its on the skimmer. I tried a ER venturi and got the same reading. What ever the restriction is its in the pump it self .

Rich I would real like to see those pics of it running even if its just the meter next to the skimmer while its runnin gin the sump .

I am figuring all the improvement was from the rounding out of the pumps output. Since I had my output 90 off and it made no real difference.
 
We need to get Spazz involved on this thread. Modifing and reaming out pump seem to be this bread and butter.
 
well it sounds to me like they have too small of an output for this pump. I feel most needle wheels have this same problem. these companies are trying to "convert" existing pumps to needle wheels and not taking into consideration the extreme resistance that the output has on the air water mix. its not free flowing enough to let the pumps perform properly. but also you are pushing against the head pressure of the water in the skimmer body. it doesn't matter too much if its a recirc skimmer or the older style of insump skimmers. they all have head pressure.
the Venturi on the OTP pumps is not too bad of a Venturi in its design. but there out put is a disaster. this is where the eheim pumps do so well. there teardrop shaped housing they use on the deltec skimmer helps to flow the air water mix better. even the tiny might im working with has too small of am output. one of these days some one will make a needle wheel pump from the ground up and make the housings the proper way so we don't have to mod them.

as far as the recirc mods go I would remove the pump assembly and install a reinforcement over the part of the body you plan to cut out. then use a dremel tool with a sanding drum on it. go slowly and sand out the hole to fit the new uniseal. by sanding it you have a lot less of a chance of cracking the main tubes. and the reinforcement will make the seal better and stronger to hold up the weight of the pump.
i would make something like this to reinforce the main tubes.
IMG_6890.jpg

IMG_6887.jpg

IMG_6886.jpg
 
What can we do with the pumps to help out .

BTW the threaded piece on the top comes out but with it out the flow comes out like the cut off nozzle maxi jet mod . It shoots to the left or right depending on startup.

pmp-4.jpg


pmp-3.jpg


pmp-2.jpg


pmp-1.jpg
 
I was wondering, if the 90 going to the skimmer is so restrictive then why not just use some vinyl tubing or something to go over both the output of the pump and input of the skimmer.
 
clkwrk thanks for posting those pics. that helps alot. the big problem i see it the output hole is so small. i dont have one of these pumps to work with but i might try to glue a shc 80 1" union onto the ouside of the pump. if the glue holds good and you cant break it off with your hand then i would slowly start to remove as much of the insides as posable. dont make it too thin. but relieve as much as posable and still maintain the seal of the pump. that looks like ABS plastic but with out testing it first you dont want to do a bunch of sanding just to find out you cant get the glue to stick to the outside surface of the pump. does anyone know how many watts this pump is? and what the wattage is when the needle wheel is runing in it? it makes a difference in the pumps ability to pull air. if its only 40 watts then you can expect more than 20 schf of air. but if its 60 watts then it might be able to pull around 25 schf of air. but that also depends on head hight too.
 
I got this one. The OTP3000 draws 84 watts as RO ships it. With the venturi blocked off, power consumption goes up to 123 watts. With the venturi bored out so that it accepts 1/4" polyethylene tubing, power consumption goes down to 67 watts.
 
I wasnt really thinking about the venturi though. I was mainly thinking of a way to replace that 90 elbow that goes from the pump to the skimmer. Since that elbow restricts the flow by using a small opening, wouldnt it be better to use some tubing that can fit over the output of the pump and attach it over the input of the skimmer. That way there wouldnt be any bottlenecking since the tubing inner diameter would be big enough to fit over these openings
 
It is certainly better but not ideal. I was shocked at how much electricity the OTP3000 sucks down. I was expecting 65 watts stock, and for it to drop to 50ish with some mods to get more air through it. As it stands, I'm just trying to get back down to the published power rating. The skimmer itself is excellent, it has pulled around 2 cups of espresso out of a 55 with 40 pounds of curing live rock in 3 days including breaking in. I'm just ticked about the power consumption but I'll get it down to a reasonable number.
 
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