Off Topic: Ponds

[dcombs44]

If you plan to have fish You will need it to be deeper then 3-1/2 feet or the pond will freeze throughout
If you do this you will not need to add a heater in the winter. I have never lost a fish even with a long winter freeze and have never had to a a heater.

I had been reading a bit on how deep I needed to dig to have fish. I'm in Southern Illinois, so weather is similar to Cincy. I was planning 3 feet, but maybe I'll consider a little deeper.

Thanks.

 

[scmcn]

As awesome as that could/would be, it gets way to cold here in southern Illinois.

even colder up here in northern illinois!

 

[jsharp1]

I had been reading a bit on how deep I needed to dig to have fish. I'm in Southern Illinois, so weather is similar to Cincy. I was planning 3 feet, but maybe I'll consider a little deeper.

Thanks.

I agree, 3 1/2 feet would prob be best, the deepest part in my pond is about 3 1/2 feet and I've never lost a fish over the winter (hour north of cincy). I don't have a pond heater, but I do have a heated pond saucer that keeps the top of the pond from freezing all the way across.

:spin3: Just a tip: When digging, make sure to dig a few wide shelves (for plants). Or you'll prob just end up re-diggin again in a few years like I did!

 

[Lps157]

We added pond and water feature construction to my companies ability a few years back and have been very happy with doing so. Were located in the SW so we don't see the cold you do but would be glad to help with any construction type questions.

Also lots of great builds in here:
http://www.lawnsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=22
You'll probably have to search a ways back to find some of the better ones.

 

[golby]

Sk8r, is this the type of setup you were referring to?

http://www.watergarden.org/Pond-Sup...ers-Waterfall-Tanks/Signal-800-In-Pond-Filter

I could easily do that with a salt bucket. Any recommendations on the type of rock to put in the bucket? Are bio-balls a viable option in this setting?

In my experience that setup will need very frequent cleaning. We run everything through a biological filter only (with a small mechanical filter by the pump, mostly just to keep the pump running smoothly). We have no other filtration. Return pump brings from far side of each pond to one large heavy duty plastic bucket--maybe a 40 gallon bucket. The bucket is simply filled with lava rock and the return tube just goes over the edge and down to the bottom of the bucket. We plant a mint plant in the top and with effective rock work, you can't see the hose or the bucket. The bucket waterfalls into the top pond via pvc covered in rock work. One recommendation, if you have multiple ponds in succession, do a return from each pond not just one in the furthest pond. You will pay a bit more in pumps up front but the water clarity you maintain more than makes up for it.

I can't advise on pond depth, but in MD, my pond is maybe 21-23 inches at the deepest. We run a heater in the winter which just keeps the pond from freezing over completely.

 

[dcombs44]

Thanks. We're in the planning stages. As soon as the ground softens for good, I think we may break ground.

 

[BongoSolo3]

I have owned a series of three ponds (connected by waterfalls and a stream) for 16 years. Total gallons = 1200 or so. I have probably read a dozen books on the subject and convinced several neighbors of the merits of water gardening. Only problem I've ever had: a Great Blue Heron knows where I live.

Feel free to PM with specific questions or ask them here...

I've successfully had the following animals mate and had their young mature into adults:
Comets, Koi, shubunkins, fantails (ryukin), bullfrogs, grey tree frogs and a variety of snails (in fact, I have not purchased a snail since 1995 and my pond is full of them).

I have the same problem with a heron - I lose ~ 2-3 shubunkins a year. I used to use that netting over the pond, but it looked so ugly that I took it down. I think I will be using it again....