Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[zachts]

When doing an AWC system you really need one or both of the pump heads to have adjustable occlusion. It helps balance the system.

Proper tubing install makes a huge difference also. the Masterflex L/S heads several of us use are fixed occlusion(tension on the rollers that squeeze the tubing against the wall of the pump head).

The L/S heads have a 3% tolerance between heads and this is not different enough to make a difference for most applications. Adjustable occlusion heads would be ideal, as you can get them to within 0.5% tolerance. They just come at a premium price tag and are harder to find. But most all the Cole-Parmer Masterflex heads are interchangeable and stack able. So as suggested you don't even need to use two matching heads on the same motor. If you got one adjustable head it could be stacked on with a non adjustable head and used to match flow rate for example.

 

[hkgar]

What do the last two digits of a model number mean? I am looking at some 7523 digital pumps on ebay and some are -20, -50, -70. Is there any way to find out the differences as the descriptions all seem pretty much the same.

 

[tkeracer619]

7523-20 = brushed 6-600rpm
7523-50 = brushed .6-100rpm
7523-60 = brushless 6-600rpm
7523-70 = brushless .6-100rpm

 

[hkgar]

That explains why the -70 is more than the others.

Thanks Teek

 

[tkeracer619]

You're welcome. I updated to include the 7523-60 which is 6-600rpm and brushless.

Also, I would like to congratulate you guys. You have asked coleparmer enough questions about these old pumps in regards to the brushes that they have updated the titles on their website to indicate that spec on pumps which have been dq'd for years. Good job !!

 

[fickle1]

Love this thread. I bought a used master flex pump a while ago but took it offline because it was squeaking like mad. After reading this thread, I decided to replace the brushes. The squeak is now gone! I do have another issue though. The pump head seems to be making a ticking noise when it is pumping. It happens once per revolution of the pump head. If I lift the lever so the tube isn't being squeezed, it goes away. I made a short video. Any ideas on a fix (outside of buying a new pump head).

http://youtu.be/PTYLvRb5su4

 

[zachts]

Love this thread. I bought a used master flex pump a while ago but took it offline because it was squeaking like mad. After reading this thread, I decided to replace the brushes. The squeak is now gone! I do have another issue though. The pump head seems to be making a ticking noise when it is pumping. It happens once per revolution of the pump head. If I lift the lever so the tube isn't being squeezed, it goes away. I made a short video. Any ideas on a fix (outside of buying a new pump head).

http://youtu.be/PTYLvRb5su4

I think that is just normal operation on older pumps especially, all mine do that. It seems to be as the roller comes free from the tension of the tubing it "jumps" forward a bit as the resistance is decreased the motor suddenly turns faster for a brief moment....."click"

I'd be interested in a fix also if one exists. I've noticed putting some back pressure with my fingers on the shaft of the pump head (effectively gently trying to stop it from turning) eliminates the click but I don't know how to do that mechanically. Even running just a few RPM and dead silent there is still that noticeable "CLICK" every few minutes, though more prominent the faster the motor is running.

I should note all mine are running the L/S heads and less precise/less controllable pittman-ametek gear motor drive, but same noise just not quite as loud.

 

[tkeracer619]

Glad this thread has helped you out! Great to hear that pump is no longer a screamer. I've heard some that sound like coffee grinders.


3 things that come to mind...
-Replacing the bearings on the head with fresh Japanese bearings most of the time will take care of it.
-Re-grease the gearset with a thick synthetic grease.
-Use 3m tar strips from an auto parts store and put a tiny piece in the female side of the drive shaft before mounting the head. It will take up any slack there as well.

 

[fickle1]

I think that is just normal operation on older pumps especially, all mine do that. It seems to be as the roller comes free from the tension of the tubing it "jumps" forward a bit as the resistance is decreased the motor suddenly turns faster for a brief moment....."click"

I'd be interested in a fix also if one exists. I've noticed putting some back pressure with my fingers on the shaft of the pump head (effectively gently trying to stop it from turning) eliminates the click but I don't know how to do that mechanically. Even running just a few RPM and dead silent there is still that noticeable "CLICK" every few minutes, though more prominent the faster the motor is running.

I should note all mine are running the L/S heads and less precise/less controllable pittman-ametek gear motor drive, but same noise just not quite as loud.

I am using an easy-load 7518-60 head. I tried to pushing on the shaft as it was turning but it is still making the same noise.

Glad this thread has helped you out! Great to hear that pump is no longer a screamer. I've heard some that sound like coffee grinders.


3 things that come to mind...
-Replacing the bearings on the head with fresh Japanese bearings most of the time will take care of it.
-Re-grease the gearset with a thick synthetic grease.
-Use 3m tar strips from an auto parts store and put a tiny piece in the female side of the drive shaft before mounting the head. It will take up any slack there as well.

Any idea what size/type of bearings I would need for a 7518-60 head? Would grease help if the noise doesn't happen when the pump head is disengaged? Or do you think it is the extra torque applied from the pump head that is causing the noise in the gears?

 

[tkeracer619]

I don't but your local bearing supply store will have them in stock. They are two different sizes but they are common.

 

[zachts]

Glad this thread has helped you out! Great to hear that pump is no longer a screamer. I've heard some that sound like coffee grinders.


3 things that come to mind...
-Replacing the bearings on the head with fresh Japanese bearings most of the time will take care of it.
-Re-grease the gearset with a thick synthetic grease.
-Use 3m tar strips from an auto parts store and put a tiny piece in the female side of the drive shaft before mounting the head. It will take up any slack there as well.

interesting, I'll try adding some "tar" or spacer material as you suggest to take up slack in the connections but I don't think that will solve the issue in my case, and even turning one by hand without motor makes a faint popping sound as the rotor turns. three rolers on the L/S head. on some of the heads I believe they use more than this witch should minimize the effect I have observed.

 

[zachts]

I am using an easy-load 7518-60 head. I tried to pushing on the shaft as it was turning but it is still making the same noise.



Any idea what size/type of bearings I would need for a 7518-60 head? Would grease help if the noise doesn't happen when the pump head is disengaged? Or do you think it is the extra torque applied from the pump head that is causing the noise in the gears?

I will note that my set up has the heads mounted "backwards" from most CP masterflex setups such that the tab on the head is facing outward so I can "grab" it to apply force against the rotation. Simply holding my finger against the end has no effect. but loosely holding the tab and applying resistance to its rotation silences the unit.

 

[Theokie]

7523-20 = brushed 6-600rpm
7523-50 = brushed .6-100rpm
7523-60 = brushless 6-600rpm
7523-70 = brushless .6-100rpm

Thank you for posting this, as I was getting really confused when trying to track down a brushless model. I did luck out and 1 of the two I bought was brushless. The other isn't that loud and I only run it 2 minutes every 4 hrs for water change.

Are there any other brushless models that show up on e-bay periodically? Its really hard to get any information on the older models from the Cole Palmer Website?

 

[hkgar]

I will note that my set up has the heads mounted "backwards" from most CP masterflex setups such that the tab on the head is facing outward so I can "grab" it to apply force against the rotation. Simply holding my finger against the end has no effect. but loosely holding the tab and applying resistance to its rotation silences the unit.

You could probably get the same effect with the head mounted correctly and using a large flat head screw driver.

 

[mntnbighker]

Stenner SVP

Stenner SVP

I am about to order a Stenner SVP series pump. It has been noted several places on reefcentral that Stenner pumps are loud. The SVP series pumps are a 12v gear motor and have no cooling fan. I think it's a safe bet they are WAY quieter than the Classic series with shaded pole motors and cooling fans, and they draw less power. The SVP are way more expensive, but they are also variable speed in 1% increments via a button pad (i.e. digital). The Classic series have a mechanical speed control that cycles the pump on and off. In my opinion this will be less desirable for adjusting effluent flow rate. I'm pretty sure that every reference to noise here refers to the Classic series. The new quickhead pro pump head design for tube replacement looks pretty sweet as well. They are clearly innovating. I checked for local sources (pool supply, etc) but nobody can touch uswatersystems prices. It so happened they had the pump I want "open box new" for a sizable discount.

 

[zachts]

You could probably get the same effect with the head mounted correctly and using a large flat head screw driver.

No doubt. But how to get that effect all the time is the question

 

[zachts]

I am about to order a Stenner SVP series pump. It has been noted several places on reefcentral that Stenner pumps are loud. The SVP series pumps are a 12v gear motor and have no cooling fan. I think it's a safe bet they are WAY quieter than the Classic series with shaded pole motors and cooling fans, and they draw less power. The SVP are way more expensive, but they are also variable speed in 1% increments via a button pad (i.e. digital). The Classic series have a mechanical speed control that cycles the pump on and off. In my opinion this will be less desirable for adjusting effluent flow rate. I'm pretty sure that every reference to noise here refers to the Classic series. The new quickhead pro pump head design for tube replacement looks pretty sweet as well. They are clearly innovating. I checked for local sources (pool supply, etc) but nobody can touch uswatersystems prices. It so happened they had the pump I want "open box new" for a sizable discount.

Not familiar with those but Stenner should be able to tell you a Decibel rating for them. Variable speed DC though generally run near silent at low RPM from my experience with other motors.

 

[mntnbighker]

Not familiar with those but Stenner should be able to tell you a Decibel rating for them. Variable speed DC though generally run near silent at low RPM from my experience with other motors.

I was never able to find a noise rating, and uswater couldn't tell me a thing.

 

[CW from the OC]

Interesting find on those Stenner SVP's! please post your thoughts when you have it installed. US Water Systems has a sale on now, and they are 30-40% off retail.

 

[Dapg8gt]

The stenner pumps seem pretty affordable . Especially the dual head classic. But the question I have is are they as good as the Masterflex? Reliability wise? I've been on the eBay hunt for a Masterflex and came close to winning a few but haven't scored yet =(..

On another note tkeracer619 have you used or heard of anyone using a industrial diaphragm pump for a calcium reactor feed? I have a brand new adjustable prominent brand diaphragm pump for dosing chemicals like ammonia and fluoride in treatment plants in my garage.. It's fully adjustable and really accurate it's just noisy on the pump strokes.. But since it will be remote it may just work in my situation.. Do you think that would be feasible to use? Or should I sell it to fund a Masterflex =) retail on it is 2k+ fwiw. If this derails the thread too much I apologize..