Most of the reactors currently use is the 1/4" John Guest tubing. For longer runs or commercial units use 3/8 JG tubing. These are my suggestions for LS17 tubing. Each situation might require something different but for most of us this first group will be the one. The best tubing I am aware of right now is Pharmed Tygon supplied by US Plastics. It has a long life exposed to this environment. I change the tube once every quarter. It will last longer but... its cheep to be proactive. The qty suggested is good for about 2.5 years if kept away from radiation.
**** For 1/4" OD John Guest to LS/17 ****
(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=36204
(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42009
(QTY4)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34082
(QTY10)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25534
Increase the time between bubbles? In other words lower the bubble rate. Or you can turn off the CO2 altogether and increase the feed rate till you get to a ph you like then adjust the feed rate down and decrease the bubble rate to maintain
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If your reactor ph is that low, and you're still suffering from low display tank alk, everything needs to be turned up. You need to turn up your effluent by 10 ml/min (I would do more actually), and increase your bubble count. Effectively you will be raising the reactor ph (to whatever your goal is) and supplementing MORE in the process. Those geo starting setting recommendations are just an arbitrary starting point that will likely not work for most tanks, but also not crash most tanks over night. I use the same reactor and same pump on my 90 gallon and have it running at 1 bubble per 4 seconds, and 49 rpm on the masterflex which comes out to about 88 ml/min, with a reactor ph of 7.2 and display alk at 7.8 dKH
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12 psi. At really low psi levels it is hard to keep a stable bubble count/size
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Thanks , ok I increased based on your setting but kept the psi at 5 which gives accurate bubble count/size and also to avoid sudden shake . Let's see how it goes. Ph of the reactor is 6.1 and still not gone up.
Did you increase drip rate or bubble count or both? If you are trying to increase tank alk and reduce reactor pH then just increase the drip rate and don't touch anything else. Krazie :jester:
You should not worry about flow. Set it and forget it for the most part.
If you adjust flow here is what happens. If you increase the fowl the water spends less time in the reactor so the reactor ph goes up and the effluent ALK goes down as does the tank Alk. If you decrease the flow rate just the opposite.
To increase tank ALK increase either the bubble rate or the CO2 PSI, or both. As the ph of the reactor goes down the ALK of the effluent will go up and so will the tanks. You just cannot get there by adjusting flow rate. You might think you are adding more ALK but each time you increase the flow the ALK of the effluent goes down.
You also have to be careful of not getting your reactor pH too low or the media turns to mush and plugs the reactor. There is more than one way to skin this cat. The important part is to only adjust one part and then give it time to stabilize and measure the change before adjusting anything else.
Of course you can drive the reactor ph to low. That is why my Apex will shut down the regulator if ph is less than 6.3. I keep the flow rate at 30ml/min and adjust PSI and BPM to increase or decrease tank dKH.
My logic says that the longer the water stays in the reactor (slower flow rate) the more Alk it can absorb (might not be the right scientific word, but I think you know what I mean) so the more effective is the reactor. If your rate is 60ml/min than the water has only 1/2 the time in the reactor than at 30 ml/min
Agree but with the low flow set up somehow my reactor ph is not increasing.
Now with the lower psi (5) and 4 seconds per bubble ph is holding up at 6.4 to 6.5. I was expecting to go higher so that I can reduce the flow but it's not happening .