OK Big Tank Crew - If you could do it again what would you do different ?

[Leosdad]

I have only been in the hobby about 18 months. I had my tank custom built, first experience with saltwater. I hired an experienced Aquarium Maint Company, so the design works pretty well with not many problems.

I was fortunate enough to have room in my basement for all the sump and plumbing. With RO filter down there, water mixing and water changes are fairly easy, tho I was intimidated at first.

Things I would change:

I had the aquarium mounted on a platform (drywall with granite top) which extends out from the wall 3 feet, for viewing on three sides. I had a canopy (studs and drywall) built down over the top of the aquarium to house lights, with an exhaust fan thru the roof. I don't like the look of the bulkhead. I may still rip it out and buy a high end lighting system that would just hang from the ceiling down to the top of the aquarium. This would open the room up more and make maintenance access to the inside of the aquarium a lot easier. Now I access it thru doors in the bulkhead, and with the tank depth at 3 feet, it is difficult to get the coraline off the tank at the sand bed. Thank God for 3 foot Kent scrapers.

I think I would also go with glass instead of acrylic. Like a similar post above, no one sees the scratches except ME.

I still need to add a CA reactor (dosing B Ionic now)

Overall the aquarium works well, and is growing corals. After 18 months I feel my aquarium didn't really stabalize until about 6 months ago.

Lost a few fish/corals last year trying to push it I think.

 

[tgunn]

I've got a 140g tank with a 100g sump and basement fish room.

Things I'd do differently:
1) get the flow patterns right BEFORE adding salt to the water. My sand won't keep put, and I have some areas where detritus likes to accumulate. Tough to change that with my tank "live".
2) no closed loop - I did have one before and I had a bulkhead leak. Draining, fixing and reassembling the tank set my display back quite a bit.
3) no "premium" live rock -- I'd start with all base rock and join all the rocks with acrylic rod, epoxy and glue. I'd make the rock structure with the tank COMPLETELY empty and dry. Only when my structure is perfect and SOLID (current structure is not stable enough for my liking) would I add water and sand to the tank.
4) canopy that I can slide off for access. it's very hard to remove my canopy, so I don't. As a consequence I can't reach the back parts of the tank, meaning if something falls there or I get aiptasia I have a hard time cleaning it up.
5) smaller return pump - I had a PCX-70 return pump previously; I'm using a Sequence 1000 right now. WAY too much sump turnover and WAY too much power usage.
6) QT all incoming rocks and corals. I've got aptasia and valonia, and am having a hard time getting rid of it.
7) isolate the air from tank (canopy) and all equipment from the house completely. I'd like to do a 3 side viewable tank in the future. When I do this the canopy of the tank will be fully ventilated either directly outdoors, or into the fish room. The fish room itself will be sealed and fully ventilated separate from the household air.

 

[chrissreef]

longer tank (mine is 60x36x30)

sump not under tank for accessibility

have a longer fuge (1 area for sand, 1 area forchaeto, 1 area for rubble)

better phos/carbon reactor placement

might add a 400w 20k MH to my 2 400w 14k reeflux bulbs for more blues - IF electricity/heat wasn't an issue

smaller pumps, 4 tunze 6100's are to much for a mixed/lps dominated tank

starphire back glass - I have a mirror on the back... so 1/2" regular glass + 1/4" mirror x2 (reflection) means the back looks slightly green from 1.5" thickness of light

Steel stand instead of wood

get a chiller and lower my electric rates

I might consider external overflow

plan my manifold/plumbing better

not buy savko bulkheads... the bulkhead is nice but the flange kinda stinks


What I DO like
AGE hybrid tank design (acrylic eurobracing, PVC base, starphire walls)
AC3
Reeflo 250 skimmer
Octopus ca reactor
36w 30h dimensions
tonga fusion rock - though it lost all its color from "cooking" it =(

bare bottom - still not sure... I plan on having zoa's cover it... but we'll see. I just don't like dealing with sand.

 

[memorisa]

this thread is definitely a great reference for me while im planning on my next tank. tagging along.

it may be another few years before i can realize my dream but oh well...

 

[tgunn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13144484#post13144484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrissreef
longer tank (mine is 60x36x30)
I might consider external overflow

Your tank is the exact dimensions I'd like to do for my next tank. So you'd actually go longer huh? Not enough room for aquascaping? Do you find the 36" front to back depth is decent?

I'd ideally like to use your dimensions but set up the tank as a peninsula with an external overflow at the end..

Thanks!
Tyler

 

[chrissreef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13145692#post13145692 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tgunn
Your tank is the exact dimensions I'd like to do for my next tank. So you'd actually go longer huh? Not enough room for aquascaping? Do you find the 36" front to back depth is decent?

I'd ideally like to use your dimensions but set up the tank as a peninsula with an external overflow at the end..

Thanks!
Tyler

36W is PERFECT in my opinion... same with 30" tall. I DO like the 60" as it keeps the tank from making a hobby look like a bad habbit =) there's only so much I can stock it... which is a GOOD thing =) It also almost gets all of my periphial (sp?) vision. I always liked cubes as well so thought it was a good compromise. Looong tanks are just long, you can't really change the basic "look" like you can a shorter tank. I can have a cliff. A peninsula, a U or W shape etc.

The reason I "don't" like 60" is that I feel unconfortable getting large tangs (blonde naso tang). They just like long swimming paths and this tank, no matter how I slice it, could never provide that. Also after I added 2 large tangs that don't need as much swimming room as a naso (hippo and spotted cheek tang both 7"), I realized that an extra foot or 2 would have been much appreciated. My wife also said "you should have gotten a bigger tank". The kind of thing one wants to hear right after they cycle their tank and puts their first fish in!! lol

If you're looking for a peninsula, you might consider 40" wide - just to be sure you have NICE swimming room on both sides and easy clearance for cleaning.

External on the end overflow is also what I had thought about once I got the tank. With it on the back though, it affers me some flexibility to placement at wherever we move to.

sorry for the long response. Here's a link to my thread... I need to update the pics bad...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1383803

 

[wizsmaster]

had that $700 custom sump built to begin with, instead of spending $180 on rubbermaid bins, spending another $150 on plumbing including bulkheads/valves/pipe/fittings ... then 100 on lumber, some other misc. $ on stuff .. and not be happy .. because you know you will end up ordering that sump anyway .. after having blown $500 on other crap in the mean time.

If you're going to try to temp it .. you'll ALWAYS spend more. Plan accordingly ... if you have any doubts about your budget ... DO NOT GO BIG!

If you figure it will cost you $5,000 to setup .. figure $10,000 ... you'll probably spend $12,000 anyway.

 

[Bigred]

I'll be setting up a 300 within the next month or 2 so I'm enjoying this thread.

I have had a 380, 265, and 190 so I know what expenses do to your bank account. I think the biggest thing is they over think stuff and try to do too much. Do what you can afford and what you can do.

As for sumps, I would look for someones old acrylic tank for a sump and build your own. I'm going to run 2 55 gal tanks for my sump on my 300.

 

[Oldtimer]

I'm in the process of building my fishroom so I've considered much of what has been mentioned here. What I would have done differently is bought a house with a bigger entrance way!! I wanted to go with a 96" long tank, but was forced to stick to a 72" tank + 6" for overflow/wavebox on the end in order to be able to fit in through the basement doorway.

Otherwise, I suggest everyone looks at the basics first...

* A fish room is a must for a big tank IMO. Aside from the obvious benefits like concealing the equipment and having a dedicated space to work on the tank, the humidity created by an open vat of water is a lot to expect a home to endure if not properly managed.

* Ensure that you have an adequate foundation underneath tank

* Ensure fishroom walls are waterproof and seams are caulked - I used Hardibacker wall board instead of regular gypsum drywall since it can stand direct contact with water

* Ensure adequate lighting for the fishroom

* Ensure adequate electrical supply - I have a 60 amp subpanel in the fishroom that feeds 4 separate 20 amp GFCI breakers feeding a total of around 10 outlets. Also consider placing the outlets high off the floor for ease of access and distance from accidental spills/leaks

* Ensure adequate ventilation - Dehumidifiers work, but they aren't cheap to run and liked to be emptied often. I suggest looking into an HRV for cold weather climates. This will allow you to exchange humid fishroom air for dry outside while retaining most of the heat. For the warmer months, I suggest a dedicated A/C unit like a mini-split. A window mount unit can also do the trick. If cold weather is not an issue in your area, then an HRV can be replaced by an exhaust fan. Also consider a chiller with a separate compressor/condenser assembly that can be located outdoors.

* Standby power - cannot overemphasize this one enough. If you lose power, you stand to lose your prized inhabitants as well. A good generator capable of running at least a couple pumps and a light or two is a must. I prefer to have two for redundancy/extra capacity.

* Water supply/ Utility Sink/drainage - pretty self-explanatory

* A well thought out RO system with holding tanks and tank for mixing seawater

* A system to facilitate quick and easy water changes

* A lock for the fish room door especially if you have kids!!!

* A network connection or Wi-fi for easy computer access in case you have a Profilux or similar controller that can provide real time system status via the web

Those are the big items I'd focus on before worrying too much about which skimmer you're going to purchase or which bulb provides better coloration to your SPS.

 

[forddna]

I wouldn't buy another 30" tall tank. My arms are too short! I would also have a stand with door at one end to insert a larger sump.

 

[joealix]

Live and learn.

Live and learn.

Things I will never do again...

I wouldn't ever again allow anyone but MYSELF to design, order and install any part of my tank. A number of years ago, the LFS really took me on my first 300g setup and it cost me thousands more than it should have.

I'll never again supply all of my water movement from the surface and/or rear bottom of the tank.

I'll never set up another large in-wall without a walkway around the tank. That ladder thing was incredibly inconvenient.

Fewer elbows in the plumbing...this hinders flow rate more than anyone can imagine.

I'll never again install lighting without being able to slide or swing it out of the way so I can work on the tank without twisting around obstacles.

I'll never again rely on a check-valve ANYWHERE in my plumbing. Horrible idea.

I'll never again go with an acrylic tank. No matter how much care is taken, it's impossible to prevent the front panel from being scratched...even if the scratches are only something I can see.

And, I'll never again opt for a permanent colored background in an in-wall setup. This makes it nearly impossible to keep the back of the tank as clean as the front. A removable colored panel is the way to go.

I've made all these changes with my current tank and it's made a world of difference.

 

[64Ivy]

Presuming the same 500g, I'd have gone 96x30x48 instead of my current 96x36x36.

Tripled (or quadrupled!) the size of my fishroom to accomodate larger sump, QT tanks, etc.

Air conditioned and soundproofed same.

Supplying myself with enough electrical outlets to safely handle all this stuff instead of doing an expensive rewiring.

I've pretty much had to change or add everything over the years but I can't blame myself for that because most of it just wasn't available when I started.

 

[forensicdoc]

First, I will add my voice to those who would not have put their sumps under the tanks. My 290's sump is in the stand and is a pain to access. The 190's sump is partially exposed into the fish room and is MUCH easier to service.

Second, make sure you have more than adequate air flow through the fish room. Most home engineers and HVAC installers have no understanding of the capacity needed. Perhaps those who keep computer/equipment rooms cool might be able to provide good estimates for fish rooms. The good news is that with fans blowing over the sumps, the tanks remain under 80F (they would get close to 85 before the fans), and the fish room is a great place to go when you are cold and want to dream of the tropics.

Third, understood accessing these big boys better. Both my tanks only access from the back (fish room) and are 37" deep. I have no trouble with the 290 (a bowfront), where I can access along the entire length of the back of the tank. The 190 is a corner tank with limited access in the back corner, so it is a real reach to get to the bottom and front. I should have provided a front access to address this problem.

Fourth, more storage (you can never have enough storage).

Fifth, I wish I had researched more into options for bringing natural light into the tanks. The artificial lights use a tremendous amount of energy, and if I could use these lights to supplement natural sunlight, I could save a tremendous amount of electricity.

With regards to some of the comments above:

Glass can be scratched also, so do not think of glass as avoiding the scratch problem, just reducing it.

Quarantine is an underused great idea.

For these larger systems, planning is key. I spent a couple of years learning and thinking through exactly what I wanted to accomplish with my systems and different techniques I could use (and that's after 35 years in the hobby). Do not allow yourself to be convinced that there is only one right way. Explore different options and solicit many different opinions before making your decision.

I honestly could not see making tanks of this size work easily without a fish room to service the systems (whether the room is behind or on a lower floor). The room need adequate air, water and electricity. Whatever you think you require, make sure you have more. For example, since I have a larger electrical box in my fish room then current use, I have the ability to add circuits in the future if needed.

Patience is critical. Perhaps it comes from decades in the hobby, but I am never in a rush to add to or change the system. One of my friends who also has a large tank regularly succumbs to the "got to have it now" syndrome, and has frequent die offs and disasters. My wife sometimes does not understand why we just do not run to the LFS and buy whatever looks good.

Enjoyment is key! If you find that taking care of your aquatic worlds seems like a dull job, then this is not for you (or you have a set-up that is not for you). I not only take time to enjoy the displays from the front as a spectator, but I also happen to enjoy performing the menial chores that are a part of our hobby.

 

[quack]

i like ozone, small commercial RO, large sump, whole house standby natural gas generator, equipment room next to tank room, drop in chiller, LED's over MH, a large window ac in the equip room which isolated from the house's central ac.

I wished i had 3 viewable sides instead of flush built in, GLASS . . . especially now that starphire is available, more ele supply including 220 volt! Deeper at the expense of other dimensions, a waterproof floor in the equipment room with a in floor drain. No closed loops!

 

[SIguy]

The one major thing I would do different is to make sure I had a basement to put all of my equipment in. There is never enough room under the tank!!!!!

 

[forddna]

If I had a fish room, there's no question where my sump would be!!!! Unfortunately, that's not an option in this house.

 

[mflamb]

I wouldn't have started with a dual beckett skimmer...too much noise from the pressure rated pumps (2 Pan World 150PS). I have eleminated the beckets and replumbed the skimmer with a Baldor Dart needlewheel/venturi. Works just as well without the noise.

I would have put the tank another 18 inches out from the wall to make access to the pumps (4 Darts) and the OM 4-ways (2) easier.

Gate valves on the manifold instead of ball valves. I have to change that.

Things I like:
Foam back
Sliding, tilting light rack
Plumbed water change system
Large sump 125 gallons
RO/DI, water mixing barrels in garage
All the $$$ I saved by DIY
Metal stand/canopy frame
QT everything

 

[FishTruck]

1. I have a sealed hood ventillated by negative pressure with four inch dryer ducts. One in, one out. Single remote fan. NEXT TIME I would do six inch ducts as the temp sits at about 98 degrees above the tank with four, 400 watt metal halides.

2. I made some compromises with my hood design to make it pretty. This limits access to the sides and back.... and makes it harder to scrape the algae in the lower corners and on the back. NEXT TIME, I would make sure I have full access to at least three sides from the top, corner to corner.
3. External overflow. Scraping around the center overflow box is a hassell. It also takes up more real estate than I would like.
4. QT right off the bat.

 

[8BALL_99]

My setup is a lot like Old timers suggestions. After 2 years I still love it. Except that I'm buying a bigger tank now lol I really think thats the only thing I would/am going to change.
Things I'm glad I did.
External overflow! Just looks better ...
Equipment room is a must.
Equipment room should have its own HVAC and ventilation to the outside. To keep the moisture and smells out of the rest of the house.
Utility sink and floor drain.
Make sure you have plenty of circuits and GFCI outlets on them all
Water proof the walls, ceiling floor, stand lol pretty much everything and anything in the room.
Plan for storage space.
Thats really the main things to me.

 

[8BALL_99]

I forgot to add consider your Backup up power source and options.. I built a UPS that sits in my Garage on a shelf. When I built the Equipment room I ran a circuit from this shelf to an outlet in the equipment room between my tanks.. This outlet has 3 switches and 3 cords that connect to my 3 Return pumps.. The UPS has a couple of solar panels on the roof that keep it charged.. In the event the power goes out the ups kicks on and keeps power to the 3 return pumps. I also have an extra plug if I want or need to plug something else in to it.. When the power comes back on the Ups switches back to grid power. I also have a plug on it so if the outage lasts very long I can connect my Generator to the UPS to charge it and run the pumps at the same time. This setup had came in handy a number of times. The ups only cost about 220 not counting the 12/2 wire and the couple outlets I can.. Maybe another 30 bucks.. For 250 I have an automatic backup for my tanks that so far I've used for over 6 hours.. I'm sure it will last much longer if needed.. Of course if its during the day even longer still because the solar panels will also be charging.

At the very least connect one circuit in your fish room to a transfer switch to your panel then add an outlet outside or in your garage for a Generator. That way if you get a back up power source you have a easy and fast way to get the tanks running.. Nothing worse the hunting drop cords and running them through windows in the rain lol