OK, finally getting the 40br up and running

[Fanof49ASU]

After 2 years or more, I'm ordering my return pump and scwd today and getting this thing running asap.

I'm using the spa flex hoses and need to know what kind of ball valve/gate valve/check valves you guys would suggest.

On the return, I'll be using a scwd. My pump will be a little stronger than I want (Eheim 1260), so what kind of valve should I use to reduce my pumps flow?

Thanks!

 

[DMBillies]

You don't need a check valve on a return pump as long as your sump can hold the water coming out of the plumbing from the overflow. If it can't, I still wouldn't get a check valve, I'd get a new sump. Check valve will fail in time and I wouldn't want to count of them prevent a flood in the case of a power outtage.

So, between a check and gate valve, if you have space, the gate is probably better. It will be easier to get a fine tuned adjustment on and harder to accidentally hit and change that adjustment.

 

[Angela Short]

Also if you use the SCWD you can further reduce the volum of flow by splitting each of the outlets again with a Y and lockline or just regular ol PVC depending on how you were planning on running the return flow. You would be surprised how little push of water comes out with a bigger pipe also so don't valve back the return if as Brian said your overflow can handle it. Also the scwd is going to give you quite a bit of resistance from what I have read just from the fact you are pushing the water thrugh a small diameter device. I know they have upgraded them to a bigger diameter on the newer ones but I would see what you have flow wise before I valve the return down.
Most of the time the more flow the better and splitting each side of the scdw down to 4 random patterns instead of 2 would be better. You can still place them opposing to get the back and forth wave effect from the scwd since the breeder is so square one return in all 4 corners will give you a better chance of no dead spots and the wave function will work better IMO. You may get away with no Power heads with this set up. Good luck with the build!

 

[Fanof49ASU]

Thanks. A gate valve it is.
Angela, you're probably right.....I may not need it.

 

[waynesworld]

I think though the gate valve is more $$ and I would want to make sure you use some unions I know when I looked at the cost diff I went with Union ball valves the one with union on both sides. A gate is more controllable but you should not need that precise for a return as you can have a valve on the indv lockline if needed I don't think you would depending on pump.

 

[Fanof49ASU]

Thanks Wayne.
I only need one (to install just before the scwd)....so I'll look into that.

Are you guys buying your plumbing supplies from Lowes and Home Depot? Is this good enough quality?

 

[DMBillies]

Wayne... good point on the union ball valves... gates are also harder to find.

I buy all of my plumbing supplies from Lowes personally (unless I can't find something there). They have a better selection, in my experience, than Home Depot. The fact is that some plumbing parts are not compatible across the two stores because they use different suppliers (e.g., the threads on their unions are different). For most applications compatibility doesn't matter, but when you end up having to reorganize plumbing to get an extra piece of equipment in once the tank has been up for a month, it's nice to know where you got the pieces from. The vast majority of plumbing parts are not under pressure in reef tanks, so I've never really had a concern about the quality of the parts with perhaps the exception of bulkheads and any pieces that are likely to get bumped a lot.

As Wayne said, use a lot of unions and tru-union ball valves. They are expensive, but it makes tanks easier to move, the plumbing easier to rework if you need to, and they'll pay for themselves in time and money if you ever need to take your plumbing apart for any reason.