Ok Problem With My Overflow :(

kyle1284

kyle1284

New member
I just converted my overflow from a "syphon fed" to a standpipe config. and im getting less than half the flow that i got with the syphon fed. Now im willing to empty the tank out and drill it... My question is what size hole should i drill to have a good turnover rate for the SPS i am planning on keeping. Here is my setup in greater detail:
50Gal display
IMG_6748.jpg

20gal long sump (the overflow hose, left, has been replaced with a 1 1/4 inch PVC)
IMG_6749.jpg

the current bulkhead is 3/4inch with a elbow
IMG_6666.jpg

I made a overflow box so it would skim the surface and this worked just fine for a while but i started to notice that the water level was going way to high and way to low and never stayed at a constant level (using the syphon method) and this is why i converted to a stand pipe but NOW i am gettin less than half the flow i was orgionally getting
IMG_6731.jpg

IMG_6746.jpg


My question for yall is can i redrill the current 3/4 hole to something bigger or should i just drill another hole?
If i can not "bore" the 3/4 hole out what would be a good size hole to achieve a good turnover rate for my sump that has a MAG 7 as a return? If i cant bore it out where should i put the new hole?
IMG_6748-1.jpg

RED YELLOW OR BLUE?
Or should i just drill my tank like the Reef Ready tanks through the bottom?!? UGHHH im so torn on what to do... :( can someone please chime in and help me out PLEASE!
 
Last edited:
I don't follow. Your flow should be the exact same unless you replaced the pump... The water to the sump is only going to flow at a max rate of however fast you're returning to to the tank. If you're pump is moving 300 GPH to your tank, you're going to be getting 300 GPH back to the sump (unless you have either a overflow of the tank or sump due to mismatched or non-working drains and not enough "power outage" water storage capacity in the sump).

The more important issue is the fact you're using a sump for in-tank flow instead of equipment/filtering like is recommended. This is even more important with SPS. My recommendation would be to get the 3-5x turnover in the sump as many aim for, and get a powerhead or two from the manufacture of your choice to aim for the 50x in-tank flow for your SPS.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14823271#post14823271 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RokleM
I don't follow. Your flow should be the exact same unless you replaced the pump... The water to the sump is only going to flow at a max rate of however fast you're returning to to the tank. If you're pump is moving 300 GPH to your tank, you're going to be getting 300 GPH back to the sump (unless you have either a overflow of the tank or sump due to mismatched or non-working drains and not enough "power outage" water storage capacity in the sump).

The more important issue is the fact you're using a sump for in-tank flow instead of equipment/filtering like is recommended. This is even more important with SPS. My recommendation would be to get the 3-5x turnover in the sump as many aim for, and get a powerhead or two from the manufacture of your choice to aim for the 50x in-tank flow for your SPS.
Click to expand...

thats exactally what i thought but the water use to have turbulance in the overflow and now its barely trickling into the overflow and the mag 7 is throtled WAY WAY back and there is room left over for a power outtage... the reason y i converted the system to a standpipe is reliability. the syphon would not run at full blast unless i shook the hose... so when the pump turned back on from a "power outtage" the display tank will overflow... and thats the reason y i converted it
 
Yes. Most durso/standpipe style overflows have a hole up high somewhere, allowing full flow. My hunch is since the 90 degree is turned down without any air hole, that's where the issues exists.
 
Your standpipe is similar to mine. The elbow should not be drilled.
The the cap on top of the sanitary tee on the back of the bulkhead (outside the tank) is where the air hole should go. I'll see if I can find a reference pic.
 
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1310585&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

I've attached a link to Beananimals thread in which he describes the "Herbie" overflow. The first post in his thread has some sketchup drawings that show his system, if you look at the drawings reference the one with the air line on top. The one with the airline is what you are trying to acheive. Drill and place the airline in the same manner and it will give you a "Durso-type" open standpipe.

Since the air input needs to be "tuned" to be quiet for most people, I would find a John Guest fitting that has a draincock on it so that you can tune the amount of air you let in. His shows the airline placed into the overflow box just above the waterline to convert it to a full siphon if the level raises to high, but you do not have the other pipes in his setup for backups so I'm not sure that would be a benefit to you. I think if you placed the airline as he did and it tried to become a siphon you would end up where you started and have a tank overflow.

HTH,
Joe
 
You're absolutely right Joe. I was looking at the pictures (which didn't show the external/cap section). The video shows it more clearly. Either will work, but putting it in the cap will cut down on noise.
 
WOW JOE i think you nailed it on the head ... so what size hole do need to drill for this john guest fitting? and should i leave the elbow down or up or not on at all... thanks!
 
Leave the elbow facing down.

I took off my cap, sized my drill bit just slightly smaller than the threads on the JG fitting and then gently threaded the JG fitting in. Afterward I used a toothpick and put a tiny bit of pipe glue around the seam of the connection to seal it. My cap is threaded, so I used teflon tape to seal the cap back on.

I have mixed feeling about having the strainer in. On one hand it would stop a snail or something from clogging your drain, on the other hand it would need to be cleaned often to prevent it from accumulating enough stuff to itself be the clog.

Let us know how it turns out.

Glad to have helped,
Joe
 
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