old lights = cyano???

[mayjong]

Hey all-
Is there a correlation between old lights (250K Hamilton MH's, @ 7 months old) and cyano? I'm having a cyano outbreak on my rock, and I can't figure out why. Nothing has changed in the tank. If anything, I have cut down food the last 3-4 weeks. Cyano has appeared in the last 2 weeks"¦
Thanks!

 

[deaddat]

It's all based on excess nutrients.

 

[Blown76mav]

It's all based on excess nutrients.

I thought Cyano was a bacterial problem. My pram's are all ok, tested with two other kits by other people and I still have cyano.

Alk 9 dkh
Ca 450
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 0
Ammonia 0
SG 1.026
Temp 78*

Don't see any excess nutrients yet I still have it. I usually turn the lights off for 3 days once every 3 months and it goes away for a while.

I hate cyano:furious:

 

[Alysiak00]

same thing. i have 2 rocks (yes its weird i know) but only two rocks that grow cyano but its gone by morning....EVERY DAY

 

[divewsharks]

excess phosphates are one of the keys growing a cyano garden. remove the phosphates and your cyano issues should go away. do you run GFO? it likes to build up in places of low flow as well.

 

[ChuckG]

Cyano can apparently pull Nitrogen directly from ammonia as well as other sources making them competitors for the nitrifying bacteria.

You may see decent results with any or all of the following..

1) Physically remove the cyano
2) boost nitryfying bacteria thru products like "Special Blend". Search Reefcentral on this product, many are using it with success, it will take time though to work, similar to time took to cycle the tank initially, but addresses the source of the problem
3) Feed / Import less
4) Export more via wet skimming; change socks at least every other day
5) Reduce excessive P04 via GFO or other methods.

 

[mayjong]

thanks
i run GFO, changed it a week ago (after i noticed the issue), then changed it again last night.
reading -0- phosphates(but we know how that goes)
assumptions--
1.no known lighting correlation.
2.phosphate build up from too much food (cut back feeding amount?)

follow up question-
assuming phosphate is high, any idea on how long cyano should remain before dissapating?
i "blow" it off rocks daily, trying to skim it. also run about 1.5 cups GFO for 12 hrs a day.

thanks again!

 

[Toddrtrex]

Are you using RO/DI water? If so, what is the TDS?

When one has "algae" issues (( yes, cyano isn't an algae, but for this part it works )), it really doesn't matter what your test kits say -- you have excess nutrients and they are being fixed by the algae, so can't be tested.

 

[mayjong]

yes on the RODI
-0- TDS (incoming TDS at around 80)

 

[Pickupman66]

Odd. I have a few spots of it myself in a very high flow tank. water tests out the same as yours.

 

[mayjong]

another follow up-
would vodka dosing help destroy this cyano?
thanks!

 

[divewsharks]

Odd. I have a few spots of it myself in a very high flow tank. water tests out the same as yours.

are there any dead spots or low flow spots created by your rockwork?

 

[divewsharks]

another follow up-
would vodka dosing help destroy this cyano?
thanks!

carbon dosing does effectively battle nitrates and phosphates. of course it has its own caveats/things to watch.

 

[mayjong]

are there any dead spots or low flow spots created by your rockwork?

i do, somewhat...
thinking of adding a small coralia that i already have.
i'm worried about changing the "flow" too much, though. any recommendations on placement?
i was thinking of pointing it at waters surface?
thanks!

 

[deaddat]

Point it where the cyano is...

 

[balancedtank]

I have seen a lot of internet literature where people who had good water parameters suddenly reported a cyano bloom with lighting older than 9 months. If your water quality is good (cycled tank + low phosphates and nitrates) the problem may be old lights. I have read reports that older lights ( T5 mostly, 10,000k + actinic older than 1y) start to emit higher amounts of light in the yellow/ green spectrum, which is a wavelength region where cyano thrive.
Two good solutions
1) The 72 hours no light method where on day 3 you do a water change and remove any remaining cyano (your corals will be fine for 72 hours). Make sure your skimmer is on and working well as day 3 sees a lot of cyano die-off.
2) Red Slime Remover sold by UltraLife (reef safe). I know this board will attack this idea to no ends for having the audacity to suggest a chemical treatment, but everyone I know who has used it reported awesome results, with no reef or fish damage.

Good luck

 

[mayjong]

thanks
i'm looking at all options, and am considering lights out ofr 3 days.
do you still feed the fish during this period?
do/should i cover the tank glass to block ambient?
thanks!

 

[balancedtank]

if you use the 72H no lights method you don't need to cover the tank as your house lighting won't be an issue and you should feed your fish as normal.

This will take out most all of the cyano, however, if the cyano comes back in about 6-7 days you probably have issues with phosphates.