older 6100 on one end and 6400 on other.

[wooglin]

The ones with controller have a sticker on the box that says they have a controller, but I think everything at Amazon is done without human hands or eyes on the process. They have included the controller for the last 9 months but Amazon has many warehouses so it is not impossible one without controller remained at a warehouse.

So how do I get a controller if the replacement does not have one? Amazon says they will have the shipping department verify it has the controller, but as you said and I agree Amazon tends to be somewhat hands off. I do like ordering from them for the free shipping and ease of returns if there is a problem.

 

[rvitko]

None of the major online aquarium retailers would have old stock left. Since the controller is hard wired to the pump in place of the junction box, while their is a retrofit version I could send you, it is not quite the same thing.

 

[wooglin]

I ended up getting a 7092 controller and have my old 6100 and a old style 6105 I am going to try. If the 6100 does not work well then I will get another 6105. You were right about the flow needing to be from both ends (of course your were right .

I am assuming that I can alter the max flow on the 6105 with the powerbrick jumper if I discover it is too much for a 4 ft tank.

What do you think about placement. I have an overflow on the left side so I was thinking middle on the left side and rear corner on the right side.

Thanks for all your help. Quick responses and great advice.

 

[rvitko]

You can use the jumper if it has one, the newest power supplies are always 24V, but you can also use the controller to turn them down. There is no reason you couldn't mount the pump on the overflow, what usually works best is back corner to front almost diagonal but so it hits about one ft shy of the opposite corner, that way it glances and rolls around the back instead of bouncing back. Both magnet halves are waterproof.

 

[wooglin]

Sweet on the overflow idea. I will aim both on each end one foot shy of each corner. Will that arrangement be capable of creating a wave type flow or is that a bad idea. Here is a picture.

 

[rvitko]

The best for a wave will be both pumps aimed at each other centered on each side in inverse mode. It is not the best only source of flow, but a great addition.

 

[wooglin]

Thanks I will try it both ways and let you know how it works out.

By the way is it possible to get a replacement flow cover for a 6040? Mine came broken, and for a wave scenario I may use that little pump for some constant flow. Right now I have it setup without the flow cover making waves. Works well but as you told me it it is not much flow flow (you can actually see the suspended particles going back and forth). The corals looks cool though going back and forth.

 

[rvitko]

No problem, can you email me the receipt? Tunze at sbcglobal dot net

 

[wooglin]

I sent that your way.

Got everything up and running. You were right about the 6100 it does not play well with 7092 controller. It does not like being taken from 0% to 100% in tight pulses. Driver box makes a wimpy version of the fault alarm. It goes away after a second or so, but not enough of a pulse to be significant.

Thank looks good though, just using the controller that came with the 6105 in wave mode, and using the 6100 with the single controller for pulsed flow at a 2 second interval 100% to 30%. The 6100 stirs up the sand, etc and the 6100 moves the entire water column back and forth. Very cool!!!!! Cant use 6040 yet as I need the flow cover, that one will be second source of lower flow.

Thanks for the great support and excellent products. That old 6100 is really amazing considering it is at least 10 if not 13 years old. I believe it has a date of 2003 on it.

 

[rvitko]

If the 6100 has the older 6080.600 or 6100.600 drive until with brake shoes, changing it to the 6100.700 will solve the off and on issue.

The oldest 6100's were almost entirely hand made, the driver board was hand soldered, the coils and cables were hand soldered, even the sealing resin was hand poured, everything was more robust so you either got a dud that failed early from a mistake or one that lasted a very long time, but we also often were months behind at this time in delivering pumps because of all the hand labor.

 

[wooglin]

If the 6100 has the older 6080.600 or 6100.600 drive until with brake shoes, changing it to the 6100.700 will solve the off and on issue.

The oldest 6100's were almost entirely hand made, the driver board was hand soldered, the coils and cables were hand soldered, even the sealing resin was hand poured, everything was more robust so you either got a dud that failed early from a mistake or one that lasted a very long time, but we also often were months behind at this time in delivering pumps because of all the hand labor.

Thanks for the update on that part, any suggestions where I can buy one? I googled it and did not find one.

Mine has been rock solid. The driver box has gotten wet several times and the fault mechanism has saved it every time. I take it apart an clean it and dry. Put it back together and it works. I solved water getting to it with some silicone on the inside of the case and a piece of tape over the manual speed adjustment hole.

 

[rvitko]

http://www.tunze.com/US/en/products/details.html?user_tunzeprod_pi1[prodid]=6100.700