Oldude's new 400 gal tank build

[cphelps]

Did any of those pics get photoshopped?

 

[mikeande]

I've seen his tank and I can tell you everything looks that nice

 

[Oldude]

Thanks for you interest guys. Most of the plumbing is done and the tank and closed loop are being wet tested as I type this but it's late and I'm heading to bed. I'll post some updated pix ASAP.

 

[asmodeus]

Greg you are just like me once major things are done get in there and finish it up.. Can't wait for the pictures man you are going to have some much room..
What are you supplementing your CAL and ALK with a reactor or are you dosing. curious to find out, after I get your frags I will have 36 SPS. and then Im getting another 28 acros from Frag alot. SO Im going to start thinking heavy on what type of ways to keep the Cal and ALk up.....

 

[Oldude]

updated tank pix

updated tank pix

Kevin helping with the plumbing, and by helping I mean doing.

Closed loop

Return & overflow

And finally a very successful 36 hour wet test.

 

[melev]

You typed Kevin, but I think you meant Wilson. Right?

That looks great! Excellent progress.

Do you have plans to hide the overflow itself? It looks like it might be just slightly out of level, looking at the water line on the left versus the right.

What is your plan for the lighting? And how will you keep the moisture out of your drop ceiling?

 

[Oldude]

Do you have plans to hide the overflow itself? It looks like it might be just slightly out of level, looking at the water line on the left versus the right.
What is your plan for the lighting? And how will you keep the moisture out of your drop ceiling?

I am actually waiting on an aqua coloured peice of lexan that will fit inside the overflow to hide the pipes as it is unsightly. You're right about not being level, I forgot to shim the tank to make it level but the canopy should hide that. I am planning to rig my lighting on a pully system and it will consist of a combination of T5 (648 watts) & HQI metal halides (1300 watts). For moisture I plan to vent out through the window in the tank room.

I just noticed I double posted one picture and missed this one of the gate valve so I can fine tune the herbie.

 

[klondike4001]

Looks really good! I'm guessing when all the plumbing has been fine tuned it'll be moved to its permanent home?

 

[Oldude]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14043806#post14043806 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by klondike4001
Looks really good! I'm guessing when all the plumbing has been fine tuned it'll be moved to its permanent home?

Thanks. I am not sure I understand your question. Being realistic it will likely take a good month or so to do the transfer of the present display's contents. I plan to run the systems together before hand but don't want to change the water too quickly and create a bigger cycle than I am anticipating.

 

[klondike4001]

My meaning was "is it meant to stay in the middle of the room?" or is that for convience while putting it together?

 

[Oldude]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14045031#post14045031 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by klondike4001
My meaning was "is it meant to stay in the middle of the room?" or is that for convience while putting it together?

The tank will be in-wall viewable front the front & side panels with a room built behind it so yes the tank is staying where it is.

 

[klondike4001]

Ah, understood now, plumbing looks great.

 

[Oldude]

It took about 9 hours for my R/O system to kick out the 400 gallons but the tank is full and about 3 boxes of salt added.

Floor tiling should be done in the next few days.
So far I am quite disappointed in the closed loop. I have to dial the flow back about 1/3 so the overflow doesn't fill with air bubbles that get sucked into the system and make the water look ugly. Any suggestions?

 

[Ian]

I thought thats what I saw. The CL intake is in the overflow?

Maybe instead of the intake pointing up, you could add 2 90 deg. elbows so the intake points down. That way, its more likely to pull 100% water rather than the air 10" above the intake and any air from the water splashing in through the overflow...

 

[Oldude]

That sounds like a logical idea. I'll try that. Thanks.

 

[Bricky]

I have a friend that put his intake in the overflow. He's not happy as it causes too much water to crash over the overflow. He's now looking at adding a bunch of Tunze's. I know it's not a solution, but only someone elses experience.

 

[asmodeus]

Ok time for me to chime in. I had the same thing Greg happen to me. the over flow thing you need to run the closed loop from the main display, or you are going to get bubbles i promised you.

you need to run at least 2 hoels to suck in from the tank... so you dont get bubble.. sorry to tell you....

 

[Goodwin9]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14052174#post14052174 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ian
I thought thats what I saw. The CL intake is in the overflow?

Maybe instead of the intake pointing up, you could add 2 90 deg. elbows so the intake points down. That way, its more likely to pull 100% water rather than the air 10" above the intake and any air from the water splashing in through the overflow...

This solution solved my problems with bubbles in the closed loop.

 

[Oldude]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14052174#post14052174 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ian
I thought thats what I saw. The CL intake is in the overflow?

Maybe instead of the intake pointing up, you could add 2 90 deg. elbows so the intake points down. That way, its more likely to pull 100% water rather than the air 10" above the intake and any air from the water splashing in through the overflow...

I topped up the tank a bit and hooked up the double 90's and it works quite well, thanks for the tip. I pity the fish that gets caught in there, wow that's a lot of suction.

 

[Ian]