Optimum Cupramine dosage and length

Spar

Spar

New member
What is the best option of using Cupramine if the two primary goals are to (1) ensure complete eradication of Ich and (2) consider the safety of the fish as much as possible?
(a) 3 weeks of .5ppm Cupramine
(b) 4 weeks of .5ppm Cupramine
(c) 4 weeks of .4ppm Cupramine
(d) 5 weeks of .4ppm Cupramine
(e) 6 weeks of .4ppm Cupramine

Hopefully I'm not overthinking this, but I want to make sure I get my procedures down flat now since about to start things off for the first time. I have no problem extending to 6 weeks IF it is safe for the fish. I am confident that after having done Hypo for the last 2.5 years that my current 450g DT is Ich-free; now that I am switching QT procedures I am paranoid as anything!
 
I use the Salifert test kit. You can't really differentiate to such precision as MrTuskfish does. I just use the drops per gallon method, ending with anywhere from 3 to 4 drops per gallon when all is said and done. My Cupramine level hovers around the .25 color (I keep it less than the 0.5 color, and greater than the 0.10 color. I generally run it for 4-6 weeks, and then another few weeks without copper to make sure it worked.
 
BTW, I know it's a big no-no, but I use live rock in my QT, so I periodically have to add more cupramine. I'm sure I'll get chastised for it, but this QT has served me very well. I tried the barren QT with just a sponge filter and was never successful. Not to say others aren't, just saying what works for me.
 
SDguy said:
BTW, I know it's a big no-no, but I use live rock in my QT, so I periodically have to add more cupramine. I'm sure I'll get chastised for it, but this QT has served me very well. I tried the barren QT with just a sponge filter and was never successful. Not to say others aren't, just saying what works for me.
Click to expand...

Have you had issues with cu levels dropping from rock absorption?
 
(a, b, or c)
IMO I would not want to put any fish through 6 weeks.
I run 3-4 weeks at .5ppm and then move them into an observation tank.
 
SDguy said:
I use the Salifert test kit. You can't really differentiate to such precision as MrTuskfish does. I just use the drops per gallon method, ending with anywhere from 3 to 4 drops per gallon when all is said and done. My Cupramine level hovers around the .25 color (I keep it less than the 0.5 color, and greater than the 0.10 color. I generally run it for 4-6 weeks, and then another few weeks without copper to make sure it worked.
Click to expand...

I can't read the test kits well at all; I have a friend & helper who has eyes that can. Of course, his readings aren't exact, but we use parameters that allow a little leeway either way. Same with a little LR; if it absorbs or releases a little, its still within effective range.
 
My eyes are great and I still can't tell the colors... don't sell yourself short :D
 
I would like 2 say 4 weeks but it's usually 6 for me...
This topic is long...
I usually choose the subject(s)...that means a fish that's eating and looks ok.
What's ok?
Normal respiration, attentive to its surroundings, yet moving and exploring...good color markings...

Once home I acclimate, for me that means temp, why only temp, cause I am usually at a lower salinity than the lfs usually....

Once in my qt I let the fish feast for 5 days or so...then prazi...
It don't matter if I see something or not...after prazi..I do cooper...and then prazi again...
Everybody goes thru it...always...
I am flexible though, if working with wrasses, I take a long *** time to get copper to .40 ppm...with leopards I wait easily 1 month before copper..they don't do well, on it..

I do have live rock on mine Peter, but for the folks at home that haven't used copper before its better to not have any..

One very important note....I rather do cooper 100 times than doing hypo...if treating for ich..
Burrowing wrasses...will do horrible on it...leopards in particular won't survive it...period
Trust me on this...and dont ask...
Other wrasses will get lethargic and die...

Butterflies will do ok, but will get markings like internal damage...

Tangs and angels do fine...etc

But then You can't be sure if ich survived or not...
 
SDguy said:
My eyes are great and I still can't tell the colors... don't sell yourself short :D
Click to expand...

I think there's some sort of artist-eye quality that helps some people. My eyes are great, just can't see minute color differences. My oldest daughter is an artist (sure didn't get that talent from me.) She's great at reading tests too. Hector, my good friend and helper, can look at a color we'd like him to use to paint some trim or something and he can go to Lowes and bring home the exact color paint. No color chip try-out, he just sees it.
 
thelostrican said:
I would like 2 say 4 weeks but it's usually 6 for me...
This topic is long...
I usually choose the subject(s)...that means a fish that's eating and looks ok.
What's ok?
Normal respiration, attentive to its surroundings, yet moving and exploring...good color markings...

Once home I acclimate, for me that means temp, why only temp, cause I am usually at a lower salinity than the lfs usually....

Once in my qt I let the fish feast for 5 days or so...then prazi...
It don't matter if I see something or not...after prazi..I do cooper...and then prazi again...
Everybody goes thru it...always...
I am flexible though, if working with wrasses, I take a long *** time to get copper to .40 ppm...with leopards I wait easily 1 month before copper..they don't do well, on it..

I do have live rock on mine Peter, but for the folks at home that haven't used copper before its better to not have any..

One very important note....I rather do cooper 100 times than doing hypo...if treating for ich..
Burrowing wrasses...will do horrible on it...leopards in particular won't survive it...period
Trust me on this...and dont ask...
Other wrasses will get lethargic and die...

Butterflies will do ok, but will get markings like internal damage...

Tangs and angels do fine...etc

But then You can't be sure if ich survived or not...
Click to expand...

Two weeks isn't even 1 complete ich life-cycle; just food for thought.
I agree with your comments on hypo, I just don't consider it an option anymore. (An option for folks asking for advice, personally, I haven't used it in many years.)
 
What's the most ideal biological filtration with copper? I've got a cycled holding tank with live rock that I started bone dry. There's quite of bit of it, should I remove some and start the cu treatment? I will need to leave enough live rock for the biological filtration. I've done copper successfully several times before and using salifert for the cu testing

Fish list:
Black tang
Achilles tang
Chevron tang
Swallowtail angel
Flame angel

Tank: 150 (72x20x24)
Sump: 29 with skimmer and reactor running zeolith media
 
IMO, sponge filters, seeded for several weeks in a high flow area of the DT are ideal media for bio-filtration in a QT. LR or substrate should be avoided because they absorb and release copper; making testing difficult. The sponges have more surface area fir aerobic bacteria too, I think. LR helps with nitrate; but that isn't an issue with fish.
 
Why do you need live rock for infiltration? That's why there are sponge and hob filters. Use seeded material or start from bottled sorce, preferably Instant ocean bio spira or Dr. Tims.


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