ORA blue tort under 10k's?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7240748#post7240748 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nemofish2217

Acropora do not feed on phytoplankton, DT's are of no use to acropora. [/B]

What i was saying was that with the overall increased nutrients in the tank i have seen better colors....i wasn't referring to the use of DT's for trying to feed the corals.....but adding DT's does contribute to the addition of nutrients in the tank...... just clarifying... sorry for the confusion... [/B]

Yeah I misunderstood what you were writing.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7240664#post7240664 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JB NY
I do not think that you need to move it to lower lighting levels. I had mine upper mid level of the tank. PAR level were 400-450ppfd on the coral which is pretty strong.

JB,
Is that picture an accurate representation of the color on the coelastrum on your tort (Can't remember the name, the tissue on main body of the coral)?

I'm not after the green really. I'm looking for the deep blue to extend from the coralites through the body of the coral. Could be lack of nutrients, could be I need more 450nm light, could be I need less light, ...?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7240188#post7240188 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by twon8
this is under a 400w 10k reeflux, and it is keeping its blue.
tortbluemax.jpg

See how the deep color is mostly confined to the coralites and the rest is very pale?
 
i believe the deep color is the area of fastest new growth, and that tends to be limited to those parts exposed to a lot of light and flow.
 
Cali tort under SE 250 Ushio 10K

Dsc01342.jpg


Don't have a good pic of my ORA(which is a cali also from what I can tell) but the color is identicle.

Chris
 
I think the main thing to remember is that this coral is pretty successful in a wide variety if environments, so it should be a good coloration in your tank as long as you have decent lighting and good water quality.

10K Lighting generally results in a slightly purple hue to the coral. 14K and 20K lighting generally show a little more toward the blue. These are just generalizations though. I have seen very blue Cali/ORA torts in 10K tanks and purple ones in 20K tanks. After you have decent lighting (the easy part), concentrate on water quality.

shelburn61 Yes that is how the coenosteum looked in real life. That picture was a top shot so understand that the light hits the coral a little different and it doesn't look the same when viewed head on. My tank is getting ready to come down now (new tank soon) so the water quality has suffered, so the coenosteum is slightly more dark than it was in the picture I posted.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7243875#post7243875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JB NY

I have seen very blue Cali/ORA torts in 10K tanks and purple ones in 20K tanks.
Joe, you are right on there. At least in my experience I have seen the same thing. Off topic here a little, but I tried the 10k Ushio and XM. Xm produced better results, but these new 10k Coralvue Reeflux are really impressive. Just thought I'd throw a curveball :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7243938#post7243938 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ejocam
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7243875#post7243875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JB NY

these new 10k Coralvue Reeflux are really impressive. Just thought I'd throw a curveball :D

I've seen them too and they look nice. I've always had such great luck in coloration with the XM10K, I never really gave the Reeflux a fair try.
 
ejocam,
What have you seen specifically from the reeflux that is so impressive?

I switched to the reeflux a few months ago. I could do without the pink tinge, but I generally like it. It has the PAR and look of a "10k", but primarily puts out blue (450nm) light like a 20k bulb rather than violet (420nm) light like actinics and most 10k's. According to Tyree, this is a key for coloration. We'll see...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7244520#post7244520 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shelburn61
ejocam,
What have you seen specifically from the reeflux that is so impressive?

I switched to the reeflux a few months ago. I could do without the pink tinge, but I generally like it. It has the PAR and look of a "10k", but primarily puts out blue (450nm) light like a 20k bulb rather than violet (420nm) light like actinics and most 10k's. According to Tyree, this is a key for coloration. We'll see...

I agree with you. I didn't like to pink ting either. Main reason I didn't use it on my frag tank. The 450nm peak did give the coral a little different coloration than the normal 10K.

I don't agree with Tyree on the 450nm being key for color though.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7244520#post7244520 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shelburn61
ejocam,
What have you seen specifically from the reeflux that is so impressive?

I switched to the reeflux a few months ago. I could do without the pink tinge, but I generally like it. It has the PAR and look of a "10k", but primarily puts out blue (450nm) light like a 20k bulb rather than violet (420nm) light like actinics and most 10k's. According to Tyree, this is a key for coloration. We'll see...

Shelburn, the Reeflux really pulled the blues out of my Acros. Also the growth has been good too. As for the pink, my kids like it better than the yellow. Also, it was easier for me to adapt to than the yellowish look of the XM. I also noticed that it only seems look pink when the actinics are on.:confused: I like you Joe did not give XM a long enough try because after 1 month the bulbs would not fire up anymore (SS Bluwave VII HQI Ballast)?

I had an opportunity to hear Sanjay's presentation this weekend at the Western Marine Confrence. It was very helpful information. According to his plots the 10k XM is the most efficient bulb out there. He has some new charts and plots that are not on his current website. That I would like to take another look at :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7244902#post7244902 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ejocam
I like you Joe did not give XM a long enough try because after 1 month the bulbs would not fire up anymore (SS Bluwave VII HQI Ballast)?

You misunderstood me. I have used XM10K for over two years. It's still my favorite.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7244770#post7244770 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JB NY
I agree with you. I didn't like to pink ting either. Main reason I didn't use it on my frag tank. The 450nm peak did give the coral a little different coloration than the normal 10K.

I don't agree with Tyree on the 450nm being key for color though.

So you think PAR is just PAR? I don't have enough experience to comment, but his contention that 420+450 better covers the chlorophyll pigment spectrum does make sense.

My thing with the XM was that it washed everything out. None of the colors "popped". The flourescence and blues are definitely better with the reeflux
 
You misunderstood me. I have used XM10K for over two years. It's still my favorite.

My bad, meant to say that like you didn't give reeflux time, I didn't give xm that much of chance to prove itself either. A cup of coffee in the morning would help me though.:)
 
After listining to Sanjay Joshi at the WMC over the weekend, one thing became very clear. The true color temperature of the bulb you buy is not always what you end up with. I just found his site, it's kind of fun to go in and look at the different spectrums of the lights under different conditions. If you go there, CCT, stands for corrected color temperature.
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/
He had some additional information at the conferance and some different visual displays of the data that made it really easy to compare...much hardered on the website, but can still be done.
 
Back
Top