Ordering level switches for Auto top-off

Runner

Active member
I am planning on ordering some level switches to make my auto top-off (finally). If anybody wants to add in to the order, let me know. See the following link. The cost is ~$6.50 each. UPS ground looks to be about $8 for a pretty large quantity (or about $3 USPS for four).

http://www.aquahub.com/store/ifloatfloatswitch.html

I can even help you with your auto top-off circuit if you like. Perhaps make a side-show of it at the next meeting...
 
Well I kinda changed my mind. I'm just not ready for this yet.

I'm probably never going to auto top off. hah hah.
 
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Wow. Decent response. :D I'll plan on ordering them in about a week or so...

I just noticed that these switches are not submersible on the top and will need to be fitted with some kind of conduit or tubing to bring the wires above potential overflow levels. I will probaby just mount mine on the end of 1/2" conduit and use the threads on the switch to go into some kind of converter.

Personally, I plan to get three. One to turn the pump on at the low water mark and one to turn the pump off at the high water mark. And one that stays out of the water and turns the pump off as a backup if the other float switches fail. Then again, I tend to over-design things. It isn't like my 5G resevoir of RO water will overflow my sump should a float fail. Something like the following image, but with a "UUFS" in front of the "UFS".
14962PumpUpCircuit.gif


You can do this without the pump-up circuit, though, and just have one relay to fill (use the "play" in the float action to turn the pump/relay on and off) and one as the high-level backup.

The only other parts needed would be a receptacle and a relay -- and perhaps a box for the relay. I'll have to think about the best way to wire this. It may be possible to put my little pump directly on the switch, but I would run the risk of burning out the switch.




EDIT: Also some good info at this link (putting it here more for my future reference than anything else):
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=865009
 
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If you run an inductive load on the receptacle (like a powerhead or pump), I'd put a snubber circuit across the C2/NO2 contacts to protect it from the inductive kick when you turn off the inductive load.

Dave
 
That is not necessary if the relay contact is rated for inductive loads. The one I am planning on using is good for 1/2 HP. My pump is an Aqualifter, so I won't get anywhere near that limit. :)
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=OE1137

A snubber circuit would be a good idea if you were going to try to run a small pump straight off the switches, though. I'll probably use a 24 VDC power supply and a relay with 24 VDC coil voltage, too, to lower the risk of 120 VAC getting in the water...
 
I want 2 Mold-a-Holders.

The float switch relay thing we did a while back for my ro/di holding tub still works great but my solenoid must be bad. I'm not positive it's ever been good because I've had flooding issues since installation. Its tough to blow thru when closed but possible, and it's easy to blow thru when open. Anyone know the granger catalog # for a good one that would fit the standard ro/di lines? On that thought, anyone want to do a group buy one these too?
 
if you need to seal the top just siclon the top and you should be sealed but the last one i ngot was from graingers and they were sealed
 
After putting this off for a couple of days, the order has been placed. It will ship Monday and I expect it to come in Wednesday or Thursday. You guys can just pay me when you pick them up (or when I drop them off for you, Larry).
 
The order is in. Donny, you can come by anytime and get it from my office. I'll be here today, tomorrow, and Friday. Larry, I can drop yours off after work some-time this week. Don, I'll bring yours home tonight.
 
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