Osmolator sensor issue

[rmetcalf]

Hi Roger -

I am the proud (ok, semi-proud) owner of a new Osmolator - about a week old. A couple of days ago, the high limit tripped on it because the controller was showing a low condition - and the pump continued to run. Having read about similar symptoms of a new unit - I did all of the recommended things - hot water, vingear, etc...

None of them solved the problem. I thought I had a sensor issue. As it turns out - I do, but not because it is malfunctioning, but because it is collecting bubbles on it. As soon as I clear the bubbles off - it functions normally. The sensor is in a baffled part of the refugium and there are no VISIBLE gas bubbles in the water. But the sensor is providing a collection surface for microscopic bubbles and sure enough - after a few hours there are enough bubbles collected to cause a false low condition.

Is there anything I can do to resolve this issue? Thanks in advance to your always thoughful and rapid response.

 

[rvitko]

Try placing a sponge in your baffle. Refugia are tricky because they fill with microbubbles from photosynthetic activity. You will have to eliminate the bubbles or move it somewhere without this issue.

 

[rmetcalf]

I'll have to try the sponge. This is the only part of the system that reflects water level changes due to evaporation/replenishment.

Thanks.

 

[saltydoc]

rvitko,
I am having the same problem, (posted in equip forum). Any recommendations on type of sponge? I don't actually have any baffling as this is a prefab Tidepool sump. Is there a way to wrap a sponge around the sensor?

 

[rvitko]

It won't work if you put a sponge on the sensor. I would try to make a plastic baffle that would hold a standard aquarium filter pad.

 

[saltydoc]

Wow, that could be tough for a DIY newbie, at least, it sounds complicated.

Any pictures you could refer me to as to how one would do that?

Also, this is a prefab plastic container sump with not a whole lot of working room. Any baffling would need to be clamped or something in place - I don't think there's any way to do any gluing in there!

Thanks for any help.

BTW, after giving the sensor 3-4 days off, and moving the skimmer output, the sensor has worked for 2 days without problem. My tank on the other hand is absolutely full of microbubbles for the first time ever. I guess I'm gonnan have to some kind of baffling.

 

[rvitko]

I think you could make a U shaped plate such that the flanges of the U run along the side of the sump. The plate could be drilled with small holes near the bottom. The U would have to extend above the water level and then you would drill the sump to take four small nylon screws- 2 on each side. You could also make sucha plate so it didn't touch the bottom and the water just passed underneath- this would slow the flow and let the bubbles rise and maybe you wouldn't need a foam. Reducing the flow through the sump would be a big help too.

 

[Lostmind]

I just bought a new osmolator as well. Hooked it up, everything seemed fine. Two hours later, I hear beeping from the tank room. Go check and the osmolator is blaring the high water alarm.

Good news is the high water alarm works and shut off the pump. Bad news is, that a baffled sump with no visible bubbles pushing only 400gph or so thru it managed to create enough bubbles to screw with the osmolator sensor and keep the pump running too long. put about 7 gallons of fresh water in the tank and lowered salinity to 1.022 - nothing too major thankfully

wonder if I can change out the infrared sensor for another float switch? I have 3 spares that are IDENTICAL to the high water sensor....

Otherwise, I cant see what else I can do. I have, for now, put the sensor inside a 2" wide peice of pvc pipe with some holes drilled in it. But, since I cant see any bubbles inside the sump anyways, I cant see how it will make much difference. And, I am going to germany on business for a week so I cant monitor it daily... I'd take it off the tank, but my fiancee doesnt want to carry a 5 gallon water bucket to the tank every day...

I have several tunze products, and all are well made. This is my only real issue so far. Although, I have a minor beef with the quality of instructions included with tunze stuff. They are always confusing.

 

[rvitko]

Where is the hose going to? If the hose is going to the sump you likely have a siphon problem and even though the pump turned off the bucket siphoned into the sump so the hose needs to go up to the aquarium.

Otherwise just rinse the sensor in warm soapy water, new plastic is hydrophobic and will retain an airfilm from it's initial exposure to air.

Float switches are a bad idea. We used them for almost 20 years and that is why it is only a backup. They fail all the time when constantly submerged as water penetrates them and corrodes the sensor, I have never seen one last more than 5 years. It is not possible to replace the sensor with a float switch.

 

[Lostmind]

hey Roger - wow you are quick!

the hose from the pump goes up to the display tank (actually, into the overflow box). Being up there, it cant create a siphon, as it is not submerged and the ro supply bucket is lower then the outlet.

I did give the sensor a good wipe while it was underwater just before I posted this. Hopefully, it was simply because the probe was new and retained the airfilm and that confused the sensor.

I head out in 3 hours, I'll make a quick post before I leave.

On a side note... I wonder if I can get Tunze products in Frankfurt for less then I pay in Canada... hmmm

 

[rvitko]

If that doesn't work the warm water and soap trick does it all the time. I learned this from a customer who works with plastics that it is part of a manufacturing process with a light effect they build to eliminate the hydrophobic properties- they actually use steam with a detergent. It also will go away on it's own but may take a few days.

I don't know what pricing is in Canada but the US price is actually cheaper than Germany for two reasons- we get a preferable exchange rate over the real exchange rate and Germany has a 17% VAT and it is a pain to apply to get the refund so I never bother myself. I would suspect the difference isn't enough to worry about. You could check some German websites if you were curious.

 

[Lostmind]

I'd check the german websites... but, well, my german sucks

In any case, the upper sensor works, so I adjusted it so only about 3gallons of water can flow into the tnak at a time. So if the infrared sensor gets bubles again, its no big deal.

Thanks for the fast support and quick tips.

 

[Lostmind]

well, heading out now and it seems the osmolator is still ok.

Sorry for the thread hijack rmetcalfe

 

[saltydoc]

As a follow up on my problem, the osmolator has now been working without a hitch for the last 4 days. I wasn't able to create a baffle, but did divert the flow from my skimmer towards a different corner of the sump.

The problem was, it seemed like there were MANY more microbubbles present in the sump, but now they were all flowing into the tank. No probs with the sensor since.

I think (hope) it was a combination of the the new plastic film and the angle of my skimmer output. Something was also driving my skimmer crazy (does the new plastic film ever do this?) because this a.m., the microbubbles in the tank had also subsided significantly, without any intervention on my part.

So, hopefully, the whole problem is solved!

 

[rvitko]

Probably the skimmer issue was seperate- foods, dechlorinators and additives can all do this.