Osmolator "wet unit" error

[BetterMetalReef]

I'm in the process of setting up my tank and just installed my osmolator. The unit is new, fresh out of the box and has been no where near any source of water (hasn't even had a drop of water on it).

So, turn the unit on, it goes through its start up sequence, even pumps some water. Unit appears to be working fine (it's filling up the sump to the sensor level) but 1 minute later the unit stops and gives me the wet unit error (red light on the low and high LED with an audio alarm). I've restarted the unit a couple of times but it hasn't fixed the issue. The funny thing is if I restart the unit and the water level is OK (@ sensor level) I get no errors. I only get an errors when the water level drops below the sensor and it should activate the pump.

Any thoughts? I've read there could be electromagnetic interference, but is that interference directly with the controller or the sensor? I've tried shifting the magnetic mount on the dry side of the sensor a couple of times to no avail. Any way to shield the device from this interference?

 

[rvitko]

I can think of 2 possibilities.

1) Try disconnecting the pump, it of course won't pump water, but you can see f it then functions normally and shows the yellow light when the level is low, etc. If it then works, the pump is defective and we can send a replacement.

2) The controller is near a source of interference. Main issues I have seen, controller is near a ballast/driver or wireless device. The cables are all ziptied together (especially zipties for the float wire to the pump wire, the float wire will act as an antennae and the pump uses a brush motor and generates interference). Keep the sensor wires apart from other wires. The best test for interference issues is to just set up the osmolator in a kitchen or bathroom with a bowl of water to activate the sensor, if it then is reliable, you need to find the culprit at the tank.

 

[Akrite]

I'm having the same problem except mines is older and the power supply doen't look clean anymore. I have to turn it to get it to turn on now.

 

[rvitko]

Do you get the too low and too high light, or it just doesn't turn on due to a weak connection?

If the power supply DC tip (part that plugs into the controller) lands in saltwater while it is plugged in at the wall, it is ruined almost instantly. The DC current strips the plating when combined with saltwater, a new power supply is the only sure fix. This will cause a poor or intermittent connection, water damage to the board itself causes the too low and too high light to be on.

 

[Akrite]

I'm getting the too low and too high light with the too low light rapidly flashing. The unit has always been mounted inside of the stand and the likely hood of it getting wet is unlikely. The power supply might have gotten wet but it has always given power to the unit with no problems until now.

 

[BetterMetalReef]

Rvitko, you nailed it! I had the slack cord going to the pump coiled up and within inches of the controller part of the unit. I let out the slack and strung out the extra part of the wire. The unit has been working flawlessly the past 4 days, so I'm pretty confident that was it. Thanks a ton! :celeb1:

One other question since you seem to be an expert on this, would you happen to know what the rough wattage pull is for the pump when the unit is on? Thanks!

I can think of 2 possibilities.

1) Try disconnecting the pump, it of course won't pump water, but you can see f it then functions normally and shows the yellow light when the level is low, etc. If it then works, the pump is defective and we can send a replacement.

2) The controller is near a source of interference. Main issues I have seen, controller is near a ballast/driver or wireless device. The cables are all ziptied together (especially zipties for the float wire to the pump wire, the float wire will act as an antennae and the pump uses a brush motor and generates interference). Keep the sensor wires apart from other wires. The best test for interference issues is to just set up the osmolator in a kitchen or bathroom with a bowl of water to activate the sensor, if it then is reliable, you need to find the culprit at the tank.

 

[rvitko]

I can tell you it is not more than 1200mA since that is the limit of the controller, it will shut off the pump if it draws more than 1200mA, it varies with the pump speed which you can set by opening the controller. The range is roughly 800mA-1100mA at 7-11V.

Akrite, look at the tip that plugs into the controller, especially the inside, that is the +, the outside is the -. If the inside is anything other than shiny nickel plate, that is the likely culprit.

 

[Akrite]

Akrite, look at the tip that plugs into the controller, especially the inside, that is the +, the outside is the -. If the inside is anything other than shiny nickel plate, that is the likely culprit.

I tried using a different power supply and still I get the wet unit warning. The tip inside the controller looks to be corroded just like the power supply. Some how water or moisture got to it. Can this be fix?

 

[rvitko]

We can repair the older ones because the socket is accessible and can be replaced, on the new ones it is surface mounted and near impossible to replace, but we can attempt cleaning, basically, pre Nov 2011 should be no problem.

 

[Akrite]

So do I just ship it to you?

 

[rvitko]

Yes, include a note with the return address and a good day time number. Include the controller and power supply.

Tunze USA
305 Victor St
Austin, TX 78753