OT: Home Theatre

[kev-dog1]

Looking for some advice/mentoring, so I would appreciate some help from someone with experience/knowledge.

Finally upgrading to HD!

First some basic questions:
I'm a Comcast subscriber, so I'm assuming I'll need a new box, right? Do they make an HD box with a dual DVR?
Will the standard cable coax connection be sufficient?

I've read a little about HDMI pass thru recievers. Any body got one of these? Is this worth the upgrade, or is my Kenwood (5 years old) reciever all I need? I don't know alot, but I know that the way these are connected is different from my current setup. With these new recievers, all the components are fed to the receiver and it becomes a 'switcher'...is that accurately described?

I don't have a ton of components to connect...dvd player, playstation 2, cable.

Are there compatibility issues with flat-screen mounting brackets? Is one as good as another?

Thanks in advance for the advice

kev-dog

 

[Nashvegas]

I have a comcast hd dual dvr box and Hdmi is the only way to go when connecting to your TV..

 

[Mnemic]

Re: OT: Home Theatre

First some basic questions:
I'm a Comcast subscriber, so I'm assuming I'll need a new box, right? Do they make an HD box with a dual DVR?

You will need to rent a HD Cable box DVR from comcast if you want any pay channels in HD (HBO, Discovery, Food, etc). Not sure how much they run these days to rent.. I think 12/mo per HD-DVR was the norm when I was renting one. you can get a Non DVR for like 5/mo

Will the standard cable coax connection be sufficient?

You will not need to hook up the Coax to your TV if you get a Cable Box. However, hooking up Cable to your TV will allow you to use the TV Tuner to get a number of digital channels, some in high-def. ABC, NBC, Fox, etc

I've read a little about HDMI pass thru recievers. Any body got one of these? Is this worth the upgrade, or is my Kenwood (5 years old) reciever all I need? I don't know alot, but I know that the way these are connected is different from my current setup. With these new recievers, all the components are fed to the receiver and it becomes a 'switcher'...is that accurately described?

I don't have a ton of components to connect...dvd player, playstation 2, cable.

This is mostly relating to your budget. Getting a true HDMI AV Receiver simplifies your install. it is "supposed" to automatically turn on a device when you choose it from the Menu. (ie: Select DVD, and the AV Receiver turns on your DVD Player) but this is still very buggy, and usually only works when you have all devices of the same brand. Another benefit, if you get one that will convert component+spdif to HDMI out, you should be able to never have to touch the input button on your TV. The AV Receiver will convert any Audio/video signal in its inputs to HDMI, and just work.

HDMI 1.3 is finally to the point where it works most of the time, whereas there were a lot of bugs in the previous versions. If you do purchase a new A/V Receiver to do true HDMI Switching, make sure it is HDMI 1.3 (a or b). Avoid anything that you cannot verify is HDMI 1.3 (preferably 1.3b) like the Plague, or a Mantis shrimp. Your call.

To be honest, with your list of devices, I'd say save your $$ until they get HDMI upto par (for too many reasons to go into here), and stick with your current receiver, unless its not a 5.1 channel or better. My Sony 5.1 is from 2000, and still works for me. If you really want a new receiver, Plan to spend at least 400 for a basic model with features to convert signals internaly.

I have a LOT of beefs with HDMI, but when it works right, its a nice technology minus the copy protection BS they built into it.

Are there compatibility issues with flat-screen mounting brackets? Is one as good as another?

AFAIK, as long as you get the right size mount for your TV, it will work. They've managed to at least figure that out between manufactures


Only other suggestion I have would be to get a Harmony Remote. These remotes are very cool, and make any Home Theater setup much easier to use.
Basicly letting you push a "watch tv" button and the remote would
1 Put your TV on Input 2
2 AV Reciver on "Sat/TV",
3 then assign all the buttons to work for your DVR.

Extremely flexable.

Good luck!

 

[Mnemic]

one other thing.

DO NOT BUY HDMI CABLES LOCALY.
if you need/want HDMI Cables here is the best place I've found on the net:

www.monoprice.com
It is CRAZY the markup on HDMI cables. I paid under 6 bucks each for my 6' cables where they are 40+ at local stores

6' less then 5 bucks:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10243&cs_id=1024008&p_id=3992&seq=1&format=2

 

[CKreef]

I second the Harmony remote. I have the touchscreen version and it is awesome. Even controls my AC and anything else with a remote or X10 device.

 

[gsusfreak]

i was about to mention monoprice as well....got my 3 hdmi cables and wall mount for like $50

 

[loyalty]

the above posts echoed exactly what i was going to say. i also second the harmony recommendation...it's one of those things you don't need, but when you have it, you won't know how you ever lived without it.


the only other thing i can add (since you mentioned you were plugging up a PS2) is that the PS3 is still the best blu-ray player on the market when you're ready to get into high def dvds

 

[kev-dog1]

Awesome advice! Thanks.
I have heard drifts of the "bugginess" of HDMI, so I may wait on that aspect. And the link to monoprice is helpful...I'm assuming that the Comcast HD box has a HDMI out?
I currently still have the Playstation 2, but when it craps out I'll upgrade to the 3.
Have not heard of Harmony remotes, but they sound very cool. I'll do some research.

So it sounds me like all I'll need is:
New TV - leaning toward a Samsung 40"
Comcast's HD dual DVR box
HDMI cable (long enought to reach from box to TV)
...and leave it connected in the same manner it is now, with the exception of using the HDMI cable from box to TV (instead of coax)

Thanks everyone!

 

[Mnemic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13007808#post13007808 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kev-dog1
Awesome advice! Thanks.
I have heard drifts of the "bugginess" of HDMI, so I may wait on that aspect. And the link to monoprice is helpful...I'm assuming that the Comcast HD box has a HDMI out?
I currently still have the Playstation 2, but when it craps out I'll upgrade to the 3.
Have not heard of Harmony remotes, but they sound very cool. I'll do some research.

So it sounds me like all I'll need is:
New TV - leaning toward a Samsung 40"
Comcast's HD dual DVR box
HDMI cable (long enought to reach from box to TV)
...and leave it connected in the same manner it is now, with the exception of using the HDMI cable from box to TV (instead of coax)

Thanks everyone!

NP.

IMO, and I've done a LOT of research on this, Sharp Aquos is the way to go for LCD, and Panasonic is the way for Plasma, but Plasma is making its exit, so may be able to get a good deal on one for cheap. Sharp has been the leader in LCD tech for a long time, and they are solid sets. I've got 2 of em.

For HDMI Cables, you will need 1 from Cable Box to TV. Comcast MAY provide one. Not sure. Most new HDMI capable devices usualy don't include them.
You'll still need to use toslink (optical cable) from the Cable box to your Audio Receiver.
Your Other devices will hook up like normal. Component/Svideo to the TV, and Toslink to your Receiver.

 

[NeveSSL]

Wow... great thread. I've been considering getting an LCD TV since our current TV is about to go out, but I'm not sure I want to just yet. On top of buying the TV, its seems you have to pay a lot of money for everything else, too. Which is typical of new technology. I MAY take the plunge, but I'm just not sure yet. Thanks for all of the info, Mnemic.

Also, something to keep in mind about plasmas is that, just like your old monitors, they can burn an image into them. Its not real likely but it can and does happen... ask MTSU how they know. Particularly in the studios.

Brandon

 

[cczarnik]

FYI if you want cables locally but don't want to get hosed at the big box stores, Randolph and Rice (right downtown) will have everything you need. My 10' HDMI was something like $15.

Cat5e ethernet cables are $1-2 each. We buy them there by the hundreds for work.

 

[NeveSSL]

We also use Randolph and Rice for local audio cable needs. I can remember being on a tour bus headed to PA soldering a snake so we could record the show using 1/4" connectors from Randolph and Rice.

Brandon

 

[Highside]

if you are really into audio, I would suggest spending 60% of your budget on speakers. Most of the audiophile mags will recommend the same.

 

[Mnemic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13011188#post13011188 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Highside
if you are really into audio, I would suggest spending 60% of your budget on speakers. Most of the audiophile mags will recommend the same.

I'm still skeptical about the price of "high end" speakers. 10-15 years ago when we were making huge strides in speaker technology I could hear a huge difference between cheap and expensive speakers. Modern Technology (to me) has made even cheap speakers sound reasonably well enough for a simple home theater setup.

I personal think, a good Center Channel speaker is the key to a good sounding reasonably priced entertainment system. It seems like 80% of all voice and effects come out of that speaker in a 5.1 Audio Stream. I spent 250 on mine 3 yrs ago, and it made the biggest difference in my setup. After upgrading my side channel speakers, I could barely tell the difference, although the new side speakers looked much nicer.

If I spent 60% of my budget on speakers, I think I would force myself to hear and think it sounds better, despite reality

Ultimately I would say go listen to various setups yourself. If you can hear a noticeable difference between a pair of 200 speakers, and 600 speakers, and its worth the extra 400 to you.... by all means buy em. Like everything, its all about personal taste.

 

[NeveSSL]

I just took a class where our textbook was a guide to high-end audio. I mean a book where budget systems are $10,000 type deal. (The class was Critical Listening)

Here's what it comes down to IMO. There is a price point where you get really good stuff for a good price. Then after that threshold, the price to performance ratio gets ridiculous. You start getting into boutique stuff and you're paying $5,000 extra for that extra bit of performance as opposed to paying $2,000 over $200 for something that sounds and is made much better at the lower end. It seems as though the same thing goes for most any market, but especially audio.

For example, the headphones we had to purchase for that class are rather spiffy. Sennheiser HD650s. They have replaceable cables on them as well as replaceable ear cushions. Our teacher actually bought a high-end cable for his already high-end headphones for $150. Now could one of his students tell a difference? We didn't try it, but I'm betting probably, but it may take several listenings to be able to tell. He, on the other hand, could probably tell a difference right away (he's been teaching this class for a looooong time and is a great audio engineer... in fact, he's an archivist for the Nashville Symphony ).

Just a thought.

Brandon

 

[Mnemic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13013597#post13013597 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NeveSSL
I just took a class where our textbook was a guide to high-end audio. I mean a book where budget systems are $10,000 type deal. (The class was Critical Listening)

Here's what it comes down to IMO. There is a price point where you get really good stuff for a good price. Then after that threshold, the price to performance ratio gets ridiculous. You start getting into boutique stuff and you're paying $5,000 extra for that extra bit of performance as opposed to paying $2,000 over $200 for something that sounds and is made much better at the lower end. It seems as though the same thing goes for most any market, but especially audio.

For example, the headphones we had to purchase for that class are rather spiffy. Sennheiser HD650s. They have replaceable cables on them as well as replaceable ear cushions. Our teacher actually bought a high-end cable for his already high-end headphones for $150. Now could one of his students tell a difference? We didn't try it, but I'm betting probably, but it may take several listenings to be able to tell. He, on the other hand, could probably tell a difference right away (he's been teaching this class for a looooong time and is a great audio engineer... in fact, he's an archivist for the Nashville Symphony ).

Just a thought.

Brandon

I'm curious, what kind of source audio does he use for listening? I assume some pretty professional level audio equipment. I've always wondered if you take a MP3 at like 192K if equipment to listen to it makes a difference or not. or do you have to have a 320K stream to benefit. I know I can tell the difference between 128k vs 168 or 192 on my entertainment system, but less after that.

 

[NeveSSL]

I know we had a California Audio Labs CD player. I can't imagine what he has at home. We also use Durrough's meters and an RTA that I can't remember the name of. Our headphone distribution in the class is a local company I believe.

Here we go... check here: http://frank.mtsu.edu/~record/labB.html

Some of that info is outdated (we have a completely new video and audio switcher system thats touchscreen based), but the info on our listening equipment is up to date.

Brandon